Hi all, I am using the small block Ford out of my 1989 F-150 in my 51 Ford truck project. I have to drop the oil pan to fix a coolant leak behind the front cover. The hex heads on the side rail bolts of the oil pan are somewhat rusted. (Michigan road salt over a period of years.) As I apply pressure I can just sense some of them are going to "round" on me. These bolts only have a 9MM head so there is not much to work with anyway! Before going any further, I plan to order a Snap-On 6 point 9MM socket. I know this may not be any better than my Craftsman socket but I want any little advantage I can get. I have a set of Grip-Rite sockets that are suppose to work on the "flats" but they are too big. Likewise when I look at Irwin or XEwea, or Quinn they have 8MM and 10MM but not 9MM. I don't want to start off behind the 8 ball with a socket that is too big. Are these sockets that work on the "flats" even worth pursuing? I am a little reluctant to heat the head of the bolt up with a small torch? Open to any suggestions that would help me get these bolts loose! The bolt heads look like 3/8 in the picture below, but they are 9MM . Oh yea, the engine is already in place. If the engine was upside down I would be trying to get lubricant or melted candle wax to run down into the threads. ( I did not discover the coolant leak when I had the engine out ! ) Thx
Look for bolt extractor sockets. I’ll look for my set tomorrow so you know what I’m speaking of. They work great.
Give the screw heads a smack on top with a hammer before trying to remove them. That's an old trick I learned in my apprenticeship to get socket head, countersunk (flat head) screws undone before you rounded out the Allen key, hex socket.
I would also allow some time for penetrant to soak in. I prefer a 50/50 mix of ATF & Acetone. The mixture is effective because of the smaller molecular structure. It does evaporate quickly though. I wouldn't be afraid to apply a few heat cycles with a propane torch, alternating with a few more soakings of ATF, acetone mixture. With this being done, you may be able to remove with just a pair of vise grips. As a last resort you can mig weld a larger size nut onto it and then remove. I've done that dozens of times. Good luck!
Using a six point socket is a good start. Grinding the bevel off the entrance to the socket can also help so you’ve got contact on the whole depth of the bolt head.
They shouldn't be tight. Give each one a few raps straight on the head with a hammer or hammer and punch. Get your new socket and try and tighten first. When you feel the slightest movement undo them. Are you sure they are 9mm? I've never heard of anything using a 9mm hex.
Smack each one with a small hammer to shock the threads, and apply steady pressure with a 6-point socket. Next step is extractor sockets.
Yes, Ford used 'off size' stuff. They liked Tor-X for unnecessary locations, too. Did you see that BMW has patented a new fastener head that matches their logo? I'd also try penetrating lube, pick your favorite. It should wick into the threads. If you have straight shots, use the socket and extension to hammer the fastener, this shocks the bolt and drives the socket on better. As mentioned, you want full engagement. If that means grinding the socket so it has no lead, do so. Go around and 'break' each one loose. If one is difficult, go back and work the bolts on each side loose, then tighten back up to take some of the strain from the pan and gasket. I would not be afraid of heat, either. The bolts shouldn't be torqued too much, but may have sealer on the threads. If the area turns into a slippery mess and you still aren't free, you can try to clean it all down and try some valve lapping compound in the socket, too. Anything to help get a grip on the head. If all else fails, weld the nut as described after cleaning the area. All of this is standard rust/stuck bolt stuff. Even in the southwest, I've run across it. Anyone who lives in a salted area should have all these tricks in their experience. @'29 Gizmo 's tool would be nice if there was access and the head wasn't so small. Gripping two corners on a tiny, rusted bolt is less than a vise grip!
I’ll add - grind your wrench’s too. That bevel the manufacturer incorporated, was designed by someone who never swung a wrench in his life.
Look over the oil pan well, that era of F150 was well known for rusty oil pans especially in Michigan.
yup, snap on has "flank drive" they apply the force to the flat of the bolt as opposed to the corners. works great
As someone from upstate NY where there is so much salt on the roads during the winter it looks like Bonneville, I would far more concerned with them breaking off in the block! Take it easy and work them back and forth. Turn them counter clockwise (loosening) and then clockwise (tightening), that brakes up any rust and crud it the threads. Do this until you have worked them all the way out.
If you have a small numbered brazing tip for your acetylene torch or a pencil tip for a propane or mapp gas torch you should be able to get some heat on the bolt head without heating a bunch of stuff you don't want to get hot. If you heat before the penetrating oil the oil will be pulled in as the bolt cools. Perhaps do it a few times. Then as mentioned, a solid rap on the bolt head with a punch about the same size as the bolt head and a decent hammer or, if you have some restraint, a punch tool in an air chisel before trying removal.
Check your impact sockets, as many are flank drive. Valve lapping compound can also be used to fill the corners of a conventional hex wrench or socket to help keep a bolt head from rounding off. Good luck!
A motorcycle guy would use one of those impact tools that you hit with a hammer as well as a six point socket that has the bevel ground off the leading edge. They get corrodes Phillips head out of aluminum most of the time.
I was thinking they'd be 3/8. When I had a pan off an 89 f150 with a 302 that was what they were. It it possible they corroded to a smaller size
Make sure the bolt heads are completely clean so the socket seats fully. I don't know if they're metric or imperial but it may be worth trying both types of sockets to make sure you have one that fits tightly.
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