Hot Rods Engineering nightmare

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Ok, that's cool, but I don't see dropped forged I see a cast part. Cast steel and machined. I say that because the Super Bell lettering appears to be raised and I see casting marks. No matter, you showed a reproduction part and we were previously shown another repo part with notches in them? That just means a little more work if you must dis***emble to add more grease I guess?

@NoelC, Good eyes. It appears as though the steering arm in current vendor ads is cast (probably ductile iron) as it has a thin casting line and raised lettering. Ad description states: "• Aftermarket and Super Bell spindles only. • Works with Super Bell Mustang disc brake kit, stock 1939-48 Ford brakes. (All parts for this kit are in chrome) Will work with stock 1937-48 Ford spindles.*with grease fitting modification*"
https://www.affordablestreetrods.com/super-bell-slingshot-arm-chrome-1017-c.html
The SB and aftermarket spindles have the zerk holes angle drilled for clearance. When I read "grease fitting modification", I think 45 or 90 zerks, as I mentioned in post #53.

Whereas, @Kiwi 4d lead photo shows an apparent forged casting (wide seams, stamped lettering).

While searching steering arms, I came across a HAMB thread posted 5 years ago, ironically by @Kiwi 4d:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/super-bell-steering-arms-forged-or-cast.1189010/
The consensus on that thread was that those arms were forged. So possibly manufacturing has morphed from forged to cast? A call to P&J's may net some clarification.
Either way, IMHO, no steering component (cast or forged) should ever be severely notched for clearance.

 

Man, I love "I'm inside cause it's winter" Mondays!

 

I have 33-years of do***ented results, specifically in preventing death, injury, and catastrophic expense.

You have bluster

If you want to question me, come prepared.

Your at***ude serves no positive purpose.

 

and of course drama is sure to close a thread.

 

The concern over the forged and notched part seems to be the biggest concern about this ride.

The picture above shows at least a few things (the S bend in the steering link would likely bend more at both bends, or could break the ends off the tie rods, the multi bolted steering arm on the box would probably fail, and possibly the box mounts themselves), that would likely fail long before the forged piece becomes a problem, especially in a crash.

Replacing all the questionable parts would be the smart thing to do, but the starting point would be to address the worst case things first. The forged part is not the worst thing shown on this ride.

 

I have bluster...? Why sir, you have impugned my character. Was this insult because my opinion is different than yours or because I seemingly and boldly have questioned your authority on the matter? For which do I have bluster?

With no true interest or need to question a display your timely accrued credentials or accomplishments against mine to form an opinion on the severity of risk in causing death, injury, and catastrophic expense, the result of which being influenced by the smoothly shaped U groove, the size and location of it's removed metal and its perceived weakening to the steering arm structure in its purpose, I do apologize for this disconcertment, and respectfully acknowledge such experience as yours with its relevance within the boundaries of this discussion in offering the opinion you did.

My proclivities in at***ude, well? To be clear, I'm willing to disagree and argue with just about anyone and you in this regard are not special. However, you bring it on and it doesn't agree with my senseabilities, jeweled ring or not, direct it towards me, I'll respond and here we are.

So, with this understanding and our positions now stated, Nos vemos.

 

I'm just happy that the advice of "and of course drama is sure to close a thread" was taken on board...

 

LOL - this is the gent who suggested repairing a damaged thread in a crankshaft holding the flexplate on....with...wait for it...JB Weld.

 

Hey, who farted?

 

I’ve been watching this thread and am amused.
First the OP **** canned most if not all the questionable stuff. Smart very smart!
Second I cannot understand how anyone could think that cutting, grinding or wearing halfway through a critical component is OK. You don’t have to be a rocket surgeon to understand that the component is severely compromised.
Third at least two engineers and a handful of seasoned builders say the part is bad. @NoelC nothing wrong with disagreeing with anyone however IMO you should state your case with facts and figures in this case some engineering computations would work.
Last and most importantly the OP wasn’t asking if he should use said parts I think he simply posted for our amu*****t.
Also IMO when a staff member talks about having a thread closed due to drama a person shouldn’t stir the pot.
We need pictures of the whole car please and thank you.
Dan

 

Well, I still don't see how a grease gun would fit.

 

Well Guy, A car does down the road. How many bolts does it take to hold that flywheel in place? Does it matter the location of the hole and while we wait for your learned response, is that bolt a shear tensile or other force that will cause it to fail? I will go back and look to see what you suggested that didn't require an arm leg and left nut to fix.

Finally we can agree on something.

 

You use a needle tip ,
Insert into center of zerk .

 

Couple ways I've done it; plugged the original hole and drilled another hole kinda below the arm and forward, used a drive in flush zerk and greased with a needle. Another time after plugging the original hole, I drilled a hole at an angle, clearing the arm, tapped 1/4-28 and used a long (about 3/4") zerk, functioned; but didn't look as nice as the flush zerk. In both cases, pulled the spindle and took a burr and connected the new hole to the groove in the bushing.

Not hard to figure a better way than grooving the steering arm; especially that skinny forged arm.

 

Simple way as how I did it basically pretty much it doesn’t require a technician to figure it out. But a few of us just go and plain do not think what is best way to achieve the desired result. I know @RICH B plans out how to do things the best way.

 

with a grease gun tip/fitting such as this………

 

I'm surprised they didn't weld a glob on the other side to makeup for the grind out lmao ! scary!

 

Happy New Year to all you Curmudgeons one and all.

It's OK to disagree, but keep it civil please. HRP

 

Siri, re-write this using as many large, impressive synonyms as possible.

What is this New Old Stock vemos of which you speak?

 

Use the loop type and avoid all this mess.