Featured Technical ***January 2026 Banger Meet Thread - Happy New Year***

Can't help you with the carbs, but what engine is that? Full HAL?

 

Yea full HAL at the museum of american speed

 

When you say HAL are you talking about a computer or something else? Hehe

 

Look like Riley carbs on the HAL

 

Working on a HAL also
The pistons are going to the mill again

john

 

Wow, that's a cool piece, what's it going into?

 

Carl "Pop" Green started doing business as the Green Engineering Co. I think sometime around 1914/1915. I've yet to fully dive into Green Engineering, but from what I've found they were more known for their Model T and Marine Racing engines. I've yet to find info on the A/B Head, but I hope I can! Here's one of the scans I have.

That's awesome! From what I've heard from a few Model B Hal owners, it sounds like they are a bit more hard on the cam bearings. Have you come across anything like that?

 

what brand of 700-18’s did you buy, where from, and $?

I want to re-fit 18’s on the coupe

 

Retson

Yeah I have heard the rumors
The cam bearings are on the small side but usually it is a matter of insufficient lubrcation and being too heavy on the valve springs
This head hasn't run since the 50's
I'll post more as it progresses
J

 

Firestones - Antique Tires. Used Alliance membership

 

You play with some cool stuff!
Lubrication makes alot of difference, it's a dream of mine to own a HAL....

 

Ahhh!!

How did they fit on the 32 rims, as they're only 3 1/2" wide

 

Now it’s time for me to look at my Slippy 9 inch

I really don’t know why it’s slipping when I launch, maybe I just need more spring?

 

They seem to fit ok. Have Probably only 50km (30mile) on them.

 

Reconfiguring the shop a little, and finally brought home my spare motor from storage. I needed a stand that was 1) very inexpensive and 2) portable.

Discovered the Harbor Freight 1,000 lb polypropylene dolly works very well. The oil pan sits beneath the frame of the dolly with *just* enough room to spare with some low-effort shimming, and the casters are decent enough quality that it rolls around just fine.

https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in-x-18-in-1000-lb-capacity-polypropylene-dolly-58315.html

 

It is a matter of clamping pressure
If/when the disk wears it drops the ability to hold the tork because the clamping pressure is reduced
It is possible to shim the springs in the cover or change the springs
There are many variables too many to pinpoint the problem
With the balancer sandwiched in does it move the clutch ***y too far back and not allow the throwout bearing clearance?

John

 

Thanks for the reply John the clutch disk is two years old and there’s not that much clutch powder material around in the bell housing. It appears barely worn. I’m leaning towards more spring.
I do not think the levers are riding on the throwout because the throat makes noise when I have the clutch in and it doesn’t make noise under normal operation. I am replacing the bearing.
The center is machined out of the harmonic, the crank flange bolts to the original surface of the flywheel
Does anyone think I should be concerned about the three hotspots on the flywheel and pressure plate where the pressure plate levers are?

 

Is that pressure plate the tractor part or the V8 80 HP?
While it is apart it might be wise to grind the flywheel to verify flat, it may stop some of the chatters.
In the past, adding clamping pressure can be done by stepping the flywheel mounting surface, it doesn't take much.

John

 

Post a picture of the throw out bearing side of your pressure plate. This way we can verify that you don't have the less desirable 9N tractor pressure plate as John mentioned above.

 

Having fun with my Roof 101 Cyclone head and Burtz motor

 

Oh man that looks like fun!
What are you using for the ECU?
J

 

I have a AEM stand alone ECU I'm going to use for fuel and crank fire ignition.

 

I have wanted to try one of those but the Haltech I have still works.

Best, John