Technical What are you working on?

I've got everything done and all the new parts on hand to put her back together, now I'm just waiting for the painter to call and say he's ready for it ( supposed to be this coming week)

 

With some trepidation may I counsel against those cement blocks, it was a bad idea for me one time…

 

^^^^ May I add that the way you have the concrete blocks is not using the strength designed in the blocks, the strength is how they are used when building a foundation.

 

Blocks were compliments of the original body guy. One of many reasons why we parted ways long before the job was done.

 

Sorry, but that jack scares me even more.

 

Okay, I stand down.

 

Let's all be safety conscious in our shops so that we can remain healthy, then take our hotrods out on the public streets and highways where some distracted horse's *** on their cell phone hopefully causes no injury and minimal damage running into us. Don't drive distracted, drive defensively and treat your fellow drivers as though none are paying attention.

 

I've been riding motorcycles for almost 60 years. I learned a LONG time ago to ***ume that the primary goal of every driver on the road is to kill me. Keeping that in mind keeps me riding defensively. I use the same at***ude when driving.

ymmv

 

A small lathe project - shifter knob jam nut!

 

Grinding the airgap on 4-bolt main caps for another HAMBers Chrysler 392.

We measured the required step to get an air-gap under the caps when torqued down. The numbers are different for each engine block, this one had a difference side-to-side.


The machine we are using is a general purpose grinding machine with very high precision.


Setting the zero on the digital, a mirror is used.


Grinding.


All caps done.

 

OK - what is airgap of the mains?

 

There is a step in the new 4-bolt caps, they should be torqued down tight where the original caps land. Under the extra angled bolts on the sides should be a .0015"-.002" air gap under the caps. This has to be done for the specific engine block, as they vary a little from factory.

 

Something new for me. Why not 0.000 gap, does the gap help maintain torque?
Thank you
Dan

 

In practice it will be zero gap when the outer bolts are torqued down. The caps are not hard steel, they are below 30 HRc.

 

It is supposed to stress the cap making it stronger and to keep roundness under loads.

 

Torqued down the caps, next is drilling and tapping for the new side bolts.
(it's a filled 392 block for racing)

 

Pulling the MSD distributor out of my 32 Plymouth for something more @Moriarity friendly. Just an FYI, Summit still stocks distributor cam lube.

 

Thanks for the great laugh Mark!

I guess the hand crank is much better than a starter as well! LMAO

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Yes, Pertronix definitely has some issues as seen by the number of complaints, but I personally would never take a step that far back to points.

Before I switched to diesel trucks for my transporting business I ran gas engines that I always built myself in a couple of GMC's & would routinely run 200+K miles on a GM HEI with stock pickup & module, Accel 40,000 volt coil. Replace the cap every 30 to 50K & the rotor every 15k. When the engine would get past 200K I would have one ready & switch it, putting the same distributor back in. Not just a one time thing....I am talking decades! NO points could possible match that.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

just wrapped up one project
while I decide what's next
I pulled a pair of old chrome covers, a set of four NOS Eelco mini breathers and a couple repop stickers out and put them on the future blower motor.





ala Stone Woods Cook style
street version

 

I swore I read when MSD came out they said " It Has The Accuracy As Point " never could figure out why bother then.

 

Preachin' to the choir, brother. Preachin' to the choir. My 351W is running like a top, thanks to dumping the Duraspark II for a 1970-era points system.

 

Nice job. Man do I miss having access to a lathe and Bridgeport since I retired. But I don't miss work!

 

I got the rear panel all formed and fitted, currently waiting for upholstery materials to cover it. The tech screws will be replaced with clips so no hardware will be exposed.


In the meantime, I resurrected my mom’s old sewing machine to try my hand making a pleated insert to match the pleated inserts on the doors.

 

I definitely remember the issues with the HEI when they came out & several years later Rotor burn through which was cured by people finally realizing that you could no longer leave plug wires laying all over the place & touching each other (GM even had a tech sheet to their mechanics on it). Also the mech. advance movement used to cut the pickup wires after a certain period of time, a tiny plastic Adel type clamp/clip was added to cure that. Dad was a mechanic at a GMC dealership from '59 through the mid 80's ( I was born in '62) & he was continually teaching me as I grew up including copies of all the GM tech sheets/updates which he brought home

I know you don't like them because they aren't traditional & was partly why I rattled your chain!. Now they have aftermarket HEI type distributors like I have in my 64 GP that look just like old point distributors so as not to offend. Also I do like to "Wind Up" my Chevys, so with electronic ignition, I don't get point bounce & much more consistent spark.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/