Featured Hot Rods 35/37 ford truck chassis thread

Im sure when your dad is Fat Jack Robinson youbhave unlimited resources and know the owner of numerous hotrod shops by name,ch***is builders,engine builders,paint and body guys..
Im just some guy trying to build a cool truck to pull a flathead welder out in the desert..
Thanks for all the replies

 

Santa came a bit late

 

Will you be using 35-40 shackles with shock mount?

 

Im thinking of doimg custom mounts.. im not that far in...there's a guy sorta local selling earlier friction shocks,I have the magnum axle shocks and i have the 50 gmc hydro shocks..

 

Any way of removing these bushings whitout damage ?thank you

 

Hydraulic press would be the first try. If that does not work, then heat as there may be rust from 50+ years of being installed. At any rate after heating and removing let them cool on their own. Quenching them could possibly harden them and make them brittle.

 

Thank you,i ended up just going to town with the torch..they just melted and dripped out..
Bent the perches and patched the xmember.

 

If you want to use new style shackles with urethane bushings, you still need to get the tin liner of the old shackle pin out of the perch. Sometimes you can snag it with an air chisel, sometimes you need to slice through it with a hacksaw blade before it will peel away.

 

Thank you...I cant seem to find replacements online..ill try today after work

 

Original style shackle bolts are available at all the restoration vendors. But they are very hard to press in.

 

Ill probably end up buying the shackles from speedway,they have nylon bushings i believe..


I need to make a shim for the rear spring,they put a shim on top of the spring but that will raise the frame 3/4" and I'm trying to lower it..
Has anyone made a nice looking i could stack 3@ 1/4 plates with a little bend,then tack them .

 

Just weld a piece of 3/4" square bar on each spring clip.

 

There's seems to be not much difference between the 37 and 35 the grille and split windshield? That was my '35 View attachment 660

 

Thank you..
And happy new year,happy new year everyone..

Rained down in sin city so been doing little stuff here and there,mostly organize my backyard since i do a lot of work here too.
I have to move tools down from the garage to the backyard etc...im trying to look less of a junkyard..
Anywho..
My project came with a steering box they cut above the frame..
My 37 "restored" frame came with a box also cut above the frame but they sent the rest of the steering column also..
Are these junk cut or can they be used?

I have an older steering box and column with a key on the column...
But i want to know if the other boxes are s**** or they can be used.
Thanks in advance

 

^^^
The shaft can easily be spliced together with a piece of steel tube bored to the OD of the shaft. Besides welding around the cir***ference, I usually drill a couple holes in the side and plug weld them too; but the extra holes are probably overkill anyway.

First be sure the steering box is good. '37 & up boxes are pretty decent to use. Easily rebuilt if needed.

Need to measure fairly close to get the length right for the column lock to work; more so if you a stock light switch & horn rod.

 

Thank you...I watched Matt @ Iron trap garage shorten one. Seems pretty straight forward..
It maybe a dumb question but what is the inner rod and spring that slide out from underneath?
Thanks in advance.

 

Called the horn rod; the tube itself turns the insides of the headlight switch which clamps on the bottom of the steering box and the horn wire runs thru center of the tube.

 

Neat-o..I was never good at doing a stock horn..always had to get an aftermarket switch..

 

Is this a good trans if i want to convert later on?
I can pick it up for cheap

 

Sure. If it fits the bell
I had similar in a ford truck. Did what it was supposed to do

 

The bell can be drilled to match the trans as long as the input shaft is the right length, Spacers between the bell and trans can be used to correct a slightly longer shaft. It all depends on if you want it and it is close.

 

Thanks for the info guys,i drove to the guys house and he wasnt home yet,he went camping and forgot we were supposed to meet in the am..

I did a bunch of work today..
Fully welded the brackets to the crossmember,modified the crossmember for the 39 pedal ***embly i got from @Dak Rat
And thanks for the info I've been getting from @RICH B ,,also @anthony myrick has been helping,he said he would drive it!
I modified the rear ubolt brackets like @RICH B suggested..

 

Thanks for all the help im getting on this..
I got a call from the flathead rebuilder its ready ,I thought I had a 37 flathead but realized that someone swapped a 48 or later with a big truck transmission..
I took the (I thought it was a 39) transmission and had him rebuild that too.
He said he's working on that too..
It may not be a 39 but I don't mind having a 38..im not racing this thing..

Im working on my shocks today..
I could either buy stock shocks or use the tube shocks that came with the magnum axle..
What do you guys think of the tube shock location?
Once I finish the welding,im going to take everything apart and start painting.
I dont start work til the 26 so hopefully I can hit it hard.

 

Unless you buy the matching brackets I wouldnt make anything without weight on the ch***is.
Also, I think you have a problem with the spring and wishbones. When you moved the rear ends outward to hit a mounting place, the spring perches rotated inward. Yes, you bent them square per standard practice, but look at the angle of the shackles. When loaded, they will be pushed outward when the spring flattens (gets longer)
The spring end will hit the wishbone end. If you look at aftermarket wisbone/trans mount plates, the ends are muck closer together. Maybe a spring for a 35-36 would work.
Or Im just full of ****. Good luck.

 

I hope that's not the case..the driver side hanger needs minor tweaking which ill get to when I take everything apart for paint...you're right about the weight on the frame tho.

 

Looking good . Your building skills amaze me. Keep on building.

 

Just a guy trying man!!

I couldn't resist it started putting stuff together..everything looks like its going to work and that's the look I was going for...
Kinda broken down utilitarian look.

 

I’m blown away by your open air roofless workshop. I know there’s times the weather doesn’t cooperate but your not packing firewood and stoking a woodstove

 

Keep up the furious energy, it's great to see big progress. Good on ya.

Incredible how sharp eyed the guys are here. Good advice on the front spring length and shackle angle.
.

 

Its a love/hate relationship with the desert..
I hate the heat but I love the rest of the year,I like being outside working on my stuff.
But yeah,gotta cover and hide everything on rainy days..it ****s..but nono of my stuff has ben greatly impacted by it..
I plan to build cover for my stuff.
Eventually.

Thank you! Having some days off is good,also having a low maintenance house,gf,son and self means more time in the rust!

I dont see what you guys are talking about,
The picture you posted on the left is of the stock ch***is with unsplit bones and no weight on it the spring likes to pull in.
The pictures on my last post show the new springs with the cab weight on it..