Technical Y block in a 40 Ford

There is a 40 that has been for sale near me for awhile and thinking about looking at it next weekend if not sold by then,it has a running flathead and would like to keep it if I get it but something tells me its not going to be enough. I have a good 55 272 in the garage and have a truck timing chain cover to use with Hurst style mounts and a truck oil pan so will one fit without major cutting,I put plenty of Y blocks in the 1/25 scale versions but not a real one.

 

I think the firewall may have to be recessed a tad.

 

^^ Agree based on my experience with a ‘35. The distributor will bite you.

 

Actually there are two 40s available,the stock one and another that has a recessed firewall with a MII front suspension. I was hoping a Y block would go in a stock 40 relatively easy as I was wanting one with stock suspension,the stock 40 is all together and the other one has no windows or interior.

 

Do you follow Iron Trap Garage on YouTube? They saved a 1939 Ford Deluxe sedan out of a junkyard. It had a Y block swapped in many decades ago.

There is a whole series of videos on this car. Might give you some ideas. Attached is the short compilation video.

Junkyard To On The Road In 25 Minutes - 1939 Ford Forgotten Hot Rod

 

I love the idea of a Y block in a 35-40 Ford. I keep thinking of putting one in my 36.

 

Here’s how I approached it with the goal being have it look like the firewall could have been stock and I could use a stock toe board. Hope this helps.

 

I have heard the starter is the biggest issue.
@AVater that looks great. Any pics of the firewall in progress?

 

Are those Hurst style mounts still available.

 

I sent these to @Okie Pete
Y to 37-48 ford Bolts to timing cover and oil pan
Relocates the gen on top

 

No, they haven't been for years. I haven't seen any reproductions.

 

Hurst mounts for the Y block ahow up on Ebay sometimes.

 

I had a 312 in my 41 Ford pickup back in 1965. Offy adapter to the stock transmission. I don't recall any issue with the distributor hitting the firewall. I did use a truck oil pan and pickup. My dad and I built our own Hurst Style motor mounts.

 

Below is an attempt to explain how I recessed the firewall. Keep in mind, I am a negligent photographer as so often I don’t “remember” to take pictures until after the work is done
With a goal being to make the final work look like it came from the factory that way, I looked for how much space was needed and natural places to cut. I decided that limiting the recess on the p***enger side to center of the x embossed in the firewall made sense. Likewise, I made the add in piece to match depth of the already present firewall recess. I then took some 18 ga steel for an add in piece and worked to make a factory sized curved bend in it. Luckily I had some old pipes and clamps to make that work and did waste a couple try’s before I got what I wanted. I left some steel on the extension to help attach it to the firewall on the upper and p***enger sides.
Luckily, I had a ratty spare firewall to practice cutting and fitting. and did so so I could see what would work on the real thing. This was definitely a measure twice cut once situation when it came to the “real” firewall.
The real firewall was then cut and the patch welded in.
Sorry I didn’t photo it and hopefully the poor drawing below will help.
Btw: the starter did not cause a problem. Let’s see what I say about that if I need to change it someday.
Also, yes a truck oil pan works best.
Motor mounts are also home built and the engine is offset a bit to the p***enger side.
I’m using Ford ram horn exhaust manifolds.