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Projects 1936 ford pickup hotrod

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Ed95, Jul 8, 2025.

  1. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    im running speedways high flow water pumps... I've tried running with and without thermostats but did not add the washer... the thermostats are 160F. I have the stock ones still tho... just ***umed speedways would be better. It would really **** if radiator needs to change again haha. I was running a low boy one and got this high boy but maybe a bigger is better... I got the biggest I found but to be fair I did not look too long
    IMG_4293.jpeg IMG_4294.jpeg
    here you can see radiator better
    Worse comes to worst I still have the original br*** radiator... maybe I put it back just didn't wanna get involved cleaning that thing. looks pretty crummy
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2026
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  2. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    Well i think i got this thing figured out…
    Turns out i’m just an idiot :D i wasnt using enough liquid. This time I filled the radiator to the brim with water. I ran the truck for around 35mins it idled for 15 then drove it. When i got home the temp wasn’t even at 130F. Before it would reach 220 in 10 mins… i will drain all the water and replace with coolant. And retest…
     
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  3. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    So since radiator is working fine i’ll take it somewhere to weld some side tabs to attach to my grill easier. I also welded a bracket for shocks. It bounces pretty bad without them. So figured this would help. I compressed them about 50-60% and i think i have about a 20 degree angle. I have to finish the p***enger side but this is what i got going so far
    IMG_4444.jpeg
     
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  4. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    IMG_4447.jpeg Finished suspension
     
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  5. 3blapcam
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 613

    3blapcam
    Member

    Heck yeah dude! It looks like it's coming along! TBH, that radiator looks plenty big. I ran a pretty small one on my 8ba powered Model A because it was channeled & low, and never had problems with it running hot in central Texas. It was also aluminum that I painted that Eastwood radiator black, I think it was called.

    Shocks are a game changer! You'll appreciate the work they do now! ;)

    Keep at it dude!

    3blap.
     
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  6. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    Will do! I’m excited to drive it with shocks and no more overheating :)
     
  7. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    Took my radiator to OJ at Clarke County speed shop in Berryville. I wanted to weld some aluminum tabs that I made to fit my grill easier.
    IMG_4420.jpeg
    First of all wow what a great guy OJ is! He is as old school as they come. Had a blast checking out his shop and projects he’s working on! He said he didn’t like the welds he did lol something about personal pride and the radiator having some finish on or something.
    IMG_2328.jpeg IMG_2327.jpeg
    I’m very happy with his work! He was very quick and I found an old holley 94 carb that I picked up from him that he had rebuilt.
     
  8. 3blapcam
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 613

    3blapcam
    Member

    I like how you don't hesitate to get things done! Hurry up and mount the grille shell... and cover that radiator up!!! ;)

    It's always good to have back up carbs laying around! At least, in my opinion it is...

    3blap.
     
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  9. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    I blame the ADHD lol
     
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  10. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    Oh god i need to do better. Got good penetration but i grounded way too much metal got to thin around the hole. I was using a grinder. Its very hard to get into the small gaps here. So I ordered a dremel tool. I’ll rework this but just for kicks here’s the update on the grill
    IMG_4471.jpeg
    i dont know why i decided to move the top hole up. I should have just gotten the aluminum tab welded at the same height of the grille hole. I wanted more rigidity, but it’s way more work.
    IMG_4474.jpeg IMG_4475.jpeg
     
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  11. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    The other side turned out much better!
    IMG_4478.jpeg The hood and grill are finished. I just need to redo my hood rods its off by around 1/8 inch so when hod opens it wants to jump out
    IMG_4479.jpeg IMG_4480.jpeg
     
  12. 3blapcam
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 613

    3blapcam
    Member

    Looks good with the hood & grille!

    Just FYI, ditch the 4.5" grinder for dressing welds. 4.5" grinders are for dressing welds on fences, gates and cattleguards. Go get a "90 degree die grinder" from Home Depot/Lowes, online, wherever, and get a Roloc setup. It's much easier to control and you can quickly switch between abrasives and finesse your welds and get a better outcome. They do require air (Bigger is better here), but it's totally worth the investment if you're going to continue with building hot rods! I have one like that Ingersoll on the left, and it has too much power. My favorite one ever was more like the middle cheapy one! They're not all created equal and it takes awhile to find one you like. In my opinion, don't waste your time with the ones that look like a scotchbrite pad, they clog up quickly and are rendered useless almost immediately. Thin cut off wheels & sandpaper discs work wonders on dressing metal work.

    upload_2026-1-24_17-30-39.png

    https://www.empireabrasives.com/3-quick-change-ceramic-disc-25-pack/
    https://www.empireabrasives.com/2-roloc-roll-on-disc-pad-holder-1-4-shank/

    3blap.
     
  13. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    I’ll look into these… thanks! yeah the grinder really ****ed
     
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  14. 3blapcam
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 613

    3blapcam
    Member

    Yeah, it's too rowdy for sheet metal.

    3blap.
     
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  15. redzula
    Joined: Jul 6, 2011
    Posts: 1,325

    redzula
    Member

    Cool truck.

    Sent you a PM about your ignition switch.

    Some of my learned knowledge with 2 94s on flathead.

    Make sure both carbs match each other. There are a few different versions of the 94s whatever you're running they both need to be the same version. Match your Jets in both. Match your c linkages in both, for power valves I've had success with both 2 matching power valves as well as 1 PV and 1 plugged. (Honestly my old 59a I had 1 pv and 1 pvp and it seemed to getting better milage than my current 8ba with 2 Pv. but they both work pretty well) the point and shoot method works but there are also more scientific ways to get there by checking vacuum at cruising speed and halving etc.

    If you have the later 94s with the spark valve port plug that. Those really only work with 1 carb and the matching distributor or so I'm told. Never actually used one of those ones myself.

    You only need to choke 1 carb to get the desired effect for cold starts. Doesn't really matter which but you need to have the choke valve in even if you aren't using it. 94s, and I ***ume the strombergs are the same way, work better with the choke plates installed.

    As others have mentioned get a unisync tool. And sync each carb individually with the joining linkages disconnected. Once they're sync'd you can connect the linkages again.

    Idle mix is more important than the idle speed adjustment. You should not need to pump the carb to get it to fire off.

    If everything it adjusted correctly you should have no problem idling in the 600-750 range
    But every engine is a little different.

    I'm by no means an expert and I still get confused when working on my own **** understanding what its doing exactly and therefore what adjustments it needs to be fixed or run better.


    Ignition.
    When you're talking adjusting your advance and you mention chart d or chart f etc. Are you just looking at your mechanical advance inside the distributor or are you also setting the base timing with a timing light and spinning the distributor? If your off on your base timing the weights inside the distributor is just going to confuse things. Get your base right then mess with the weights IMO

    How big is the radiator when its in the shell stock they fill up a big chunk of the grill shell at least at the top. And one of the early pictures your posted of it without the shell it looked kind of short.

    Lastly im stealing that PVC flushing idea lol. That's pretty slick.

    Lastly not criticizing anything you're doing your trying and figuring it out as you go and its been fun to see you're vast improvements in such a short time.

    I think you upholstery looks great. Yeah it may look homemade but that's exactly how it would have been done in the past. And you get to say that you did it yourself. Keep up the good work.

    Edit: at some point I'll learn that not everything needs to be a novel lol.
     
  16. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    Thanks for the advice! my 2 94s are different. I'm trying to find a matching one but maybe that will take time. Which PVs worked for you? I got two 3.5 PVs and that seemed to make it run better... although maybe a bit lean? I hear loud popping when I hit the gas, but still trying to dial things in.
    When talking about the timing charts. I'm only changing the mechanical advance. Right now I have the chart D, with about 8 degrees base. Which feels wrong lol. I've been meaning to bring it closer to 4 degrees, but when I was setting that up it seemed like the engine liked this better? The truck is able to run now, but it does feel slow. Slower than I'd think (although never had a flatty before). I think I have 1 or 2 cylinders not doing their job. I found with a thermometer gun that my middle exhaust tube is about 120 degrees colder than the rest. So, either cylinders 6 or 7 or both are not firing correctly. I will do more testing once it gets a bit warmer. Been shoveling the past few days haha.
    Glad you like the seat! I'll eventually do the door panels and maybe a headliner of some kind, just trying to focus on the engine for now
     
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  17. Ed95
    Joined: Jul 8, 2025
    Posts: 127

    Ed95
    Member

    Took the truck out today to get some pics in the snow. You can really see the difference from stock…
    RenderedImage.jpeg IMG_4504.jpeg I think its about 8-9 inch lower in the front
     
  18. redzula
    Joined: Jul 6, 2011
    Posts: 1,325

    redzula
    Member

    I did 2 #6.5 but I think I may drop down to a #5.5 and possibly go back to 1 pv and 1 pv plug. Cause it seems to use use a lot more fuel than my old 47 did with a 59a and the 5.5/plug setup

    Also using. 051 jets. Not sure your elevation but I'm pretty much right at sea level (between 0-100' here in Myrtle Beach)

    Cool seeing the before and after truck looks good.
     

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