I have to ***ume these are cap screw rods and not a bolt and nut. I if this is true you won't need to resize the rod as it doesn't have an interference fit that causes distortion.
I would contact the company. Explain your concerns and see what they say. If this is a rod bolt pressed into the rod, I'd ask the proper procedure they use and if honing will be needed and if they cover that. I think that they should have covered all of this when you ordered the second set, but give them another chance to make this right. Seems like they need a bit of work on communication skills. Oh, and have the ends properly torqued and measured before use as normal!
First step is to check the ARP catalog and see if they list different rod bolts for that application to see if you just got old a bill of goods. Some times it is a case of "if you have this combination you have to reun these bolts for clearance" though. Still for your current peace of mine it is ***emble the rods with the bolts and either measure the diameter of the end with a snap gauge and micrometer or load them up and head to a local machine shop that has a Sunnen rod hone with the gauge on it that you/they can check the rods and make sure that the ends are round. Not that it can't happen but I have never seen a case of where the rod big end was distorted by swapping for upgrade rod bolts. I haven't resized a rod since trade school but the normal method is to clamp the rod in a fixture and grind a few thousandths off the mating surfaces of the rod and the cap and then put them back together and torque them and hone them back to where they are round and the ID is on spec. That is +/- a very thin RCH over on the 4th didget of the .0001 scale.
I got to resize the rods for my 327 a couple years ago, it was fun to get back into it. Yeah, we really need to know if there are rod nuts involved, to be able to answer the question.
Glad to hear it, @ekimneirbo . Make sure you have that first cup of coffee and a checklist handy when you start ***embly.
I only trust a dial bore gauge for measuring, As I remember (iffy at best) rods measure slightly larger at the parting line so as to not break the hydrodynamic wedge. If it's round everywhere except the parting line and within spec, I would run them. I should add that many modern rod bearings are a little wide at the parting line to do the same thing.
What's with the going back through your previous threads and posts and deleting stuff??? I know you got some things explained to you in the last thread you started, and that got shut down, but why do you feel the need to ruin a lot of other informative threads? Let it go, man. A tantrum doesn't help. You could find yourself locked out so as to protect previous threads/info from your deleting, and that would be a shame.
Dude seems to be going back through past posts and threads deleting stuff and replacing it with X's. This will make a lot of threads wonky and the info in them hard to follow. I hope he stops, OR IS STOPPED, before he causes too much ****. @Moriarity ???
The problem seems to have been dealt with. His profile page now comes up as "ERROR" so it looks like he has been sidelined. I don't get why some people find it so hard to just stand down and save their own ****.
Some folks forget we are guests to this site and they decide to start problems, be the problem solver for the m***es. Keep it real and by the rules, you will succeed. Traditional Hot Rods and Custom cars it is very simple. I have been here for 20 years and see folks come and go, the majority of you great folks keep helping others and trust me it is observed, but if bad decisions effect others it has to be taken care of and sometimes its an unfortunate end.
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