The frame drops are a common place for rot. I had to cut mine out on my 41 PU frame and replace it. Not a big deal. Borrowed a frame table, welded it down, cut it out, bought some steel and s***ched it back up. You can't tell I was ever there and my ***le matches the frame still. Mine was rotted through both the inner and outer frame. I had a local steel yard bend the C channel to fit the inner and outer radii. The pieces had to be taped to fit which meant some plasma cutting and welding. Fitting the outer rail over, took some time. But they joined up beautifully and with a bit of grinding you would be hard pressed to see the repair. inner rail attached I drilled the holes in it so it would look correct. Here you can see where the outer rail goes over. same thing in the back. Welded up Just like new.
Back in 1972 I bought this nice running '35 ford pickup with rusted/broken frame for $200. Bought a "36 frame and transferred everything over. Took about a month and a half. Drove it all through college. Later sold it to my Uncle...he drove it for 40 years with that "wrong frame" with no legal issues.
My advice is to drill the rivets out of both frames, save the left frame rail so the serial number will match the ***le, then use the best of what you have to build the right side of the frame and crossmember.
The front vin is visible with the body and fenders on. The middle and rear locations are covered by the body
To answer the original question, there may be a difference jn the radiator mounting tabs. See the Wescott frame print for details.
If you should decide to buy another frame be sure to get the matching ***le with it. But I do agree with repairing your frame as the best option.
I’ll definitely ask for the paperwork on the frame. It wouldn’t hurt to buy the 40’ frame and have it here just in case, I’m going to pull the body regardless and clean up everything anyway. I figured it would the quick way to mechanically restore the ch***is if I had another one here ready to roll right under when that time comes. I do appreciate all the input on my question!
Just follow @alchemy ’s advice. I could tell what Ca DMV told me, but it may not pertain to your states DMV. Make a call
I've swaped out a couple of frames in the past only because of rust and rot and replaced them with the same frame, no s-10 or sub frame swaps., Here in south Carolina you are required to have a ***le and I have never had the DMV check the frame for numbers. HRP
South Carolina is a great state, they didnt care to see the VIN or the car when I brought it home from Pennsylvania. They just wanted the money when I registered it. So I highly doubt they would care about a frame swap.
One thing to concern is, if you will repair the rot, you might need to seperate the xmemembers from the rails. They are riveted together, and you should not mix rivetting and welding in a structure. Meaning after rust repair, you ‘must’ rivet the parts back together. Rust repair- quite easy. Riveting- a skill of its own.
There has been a number of suggestions that you should save the left frame rail if you change frame. Another way would be cut out a piece of the original frame rail with Vin and weld it into the new frame
I own a set of stamps from RETRO STAMPS and they do not match exactly like they claim. They won't give you their phone number and their e-mail responses are like talking to the computer replies on the internet.
As promised here is a photo of the rusted area.. my biggest concern is once the layers start getting peeled back it will end up needed a lot of metal repair on the frame. That is why I’m looking for a clean fairly rust free frame to swap instead trying to repair this one. I would be able to switch them out fairly quick that way and still drive the car some while working on the replacement frame.
I’m certain it can be fixed but I’m not confident enough in my welding ability to tackle fixing a frame.
@Adam.L No big issue to fix that frame shown ... Vin does matter , your choice to Roll the Dice ,, Pre war vehicles are different in most states , Vin on frame Original on most ""Specially Ford's"" Engine Trains Frame & maybe the Rear? I have a ***le with 3 different Vins But last ***le in 50 , Most DMV, Police State Tropper Does Not know how things where done years ago or laws ,,, there been times here in my state have to argue ***le vin not having 17 number , DMV Supervisor Not even knowing different Law's /Rules on Tags . Most do not know that started around 1980 ,, HELL there even one's here will NOT Even buy a Pre War Body with out a ***le ,!!! ***le Has Nothing to do with body , ***le Only for Frame, Engine & Trains Not sure on rear. Again Op protect yourself find your state law's , find a person that know's how to deal /interpret , Do not Just go by One or Two DMV EMPLOYEE, Try to stick with same Agent Only When things are going in your "Favor" Why Do You Think @ Least Here ARMED SECURITY!!! Majority of DMV employees think they're God ,JUROR & JUDGE ... It not always Your Self that Gets you in trouble, Some one runs into You or you Have to do a Insurance Claim & Insurance or law-enforcement finds out VIN number does not match the ***le!!! Most time NOT GOING TO BE GOOD OUTCOME .... Fix your Frame
There's a supposedly solid rolling '39 Ch***is in the cl***ifieds https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1939-ford-rolling-ch***is.1240877/ Andy
You used the word "Must"... I see that word being used and for some reason I just want to question the authority that applied it. "Must"...? Not advisable...try to avoid, should consider? Nope...Must. I don't know about "must". The only advantage I see in a rivet over a bolt #1) reduced factory ***embly cost, #2) is the tight squish fit into the hole. #3) Extra work cause it's the OF way (old Ford). For that it's a "must" ? The problem with a bolt? #1) loose in the hole. #2) cost for a bolt nut and lock washer. The problem with welding is #1) many over weld. #2) Many make sparks and melt stuff but aren't skilled enough to avoid overheating when doing so. Many go to great lengths to avoid removing those rivets and all the rust and **** stays between the rails as a result leading to the rot. Not me. I have it down to a fine science drilling them out.
I'm a cheatin ******* on rivets. I grind off the head and drive it out with the appropriate drift. 2 grinders, 1 heavy artillery to burn it down real close, 2nd a 7" 50 and I even leave a whisp of the head which breaks right off. Drilling sux, I'm too lazy for that. We had all day to swap front crossmembers on 1 frame in my prototype garage services days. My crew (3 of us) were doing 2 and 3 a day my way while the other guys who were drilling took the day. We always had **** off time, they didn't. Ok, those were new. Did I do it the same on a 34 Packard? That's where I figured it out Just a little tidbit from the FWIW dept.
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