If I can ever get it over here and the new shop started I was thinking about replacing the cable actuated, bulldog style trunk latch installed by a PO with a stock latch and locking outside handle. The bulldog latch itself works OK, but I have visions of not being able to open the trunk lid one day, for one reason or another, most cable related. Also the cable hangs down below the lower pan, so it’s easy for anybody to invite themselves into the trunk. I do like the clean shaved look, so maybe the solution would be to just install a better and longer cable into the interior. Duh. Any suggestions on whose to use.? What do you guys have or suggest, Stock or smooth? Anyway, thinking to get a head start on the project, I started looking for the latch mechanism. NOTHING OE nor repro available after months of looking! Drake made and sold them at one time. Going to run an ad on here next. Anybody sitting on one, or have a great suggestion? The coupe is different from the sedan! But of course! Thanks! COUPE See how it’s angled at the latch. The sedan is straight in this area.
Well that ****s, I didn't know they were no longer being made. I may have the one that came with my coupe in a box somewhere. I'll take a look. I have an electric solenoid operated latch in my 39. It has a cable operated back up system which I have to use occasionally. Considering the cost of the reproduction trunk handle these days I would say that it would be cheaper to just install quality cable system that you can access under or just behind the car seat. Having said that I chose the stock latch ***embly for my coupe because I like the look and function of the stock handle ***embly.
Stock. Smooth might be cool but when your in the middle of nowhere and can't get your trunk open cool don't mean shut.
Ideally, the stock set-up would be more "traditional". That said, I fear that you might be opening Pandora's Box. As you've noted, the parts may not be readily available and as @The 39 guy mentions, cost can get pricey for the latch, the outside handle, etc. not to mention the fear I would have drilling in that rather pristine looking deck lid. Actually, the slick look is a modification that was done to many of these '40's and in that sense is "traditional enough for most". Personally, I like it both ways and would leave it and just work with the cable system to make it to your liking.
Somethings missing on your trunk, a trunk handle. Surely you will be able to locate one. I would definitely install one.
My '40 coupe came with a shaved trunk lid and very crudely built cable operated stock release when purchased in '65. Over the years I decided to keep the lid bare, so I rebuilt/re-cabled but never liked the cable being attached to the lid and exposed when entering the body, along with no back up in case of a cable failure. My solution was a bear claw latch, operated by a Ball's R&C (SKU ACT2) actuator AND a cable, located in the rear tool area below the floor. The actuator push ****on and cable knob are well hidden inside and have worked great since their install over 30 years ago during construction, and regularly the last 4 years and thousands of miles when the car finally hit the road!
my vote if it's not broke don't fix it till it is. car looks great shaved it would also look great with a handle
Looks great shaved I wouldn't put a handle back on it. I thought this was a hot rod site? My 40 I used a latch from an 80's GM G body with a power trunk release, ****on hidden in the glove box, works great.
On both my 50 Olds and my 49 Buick with shaved trunk lids, I have electric solenoids and a cable back up. Same with the doors, just in case. I also installed a jumper cable lug in an accessible place, in case the battery goes dead and my cable system doesn't work.
I have had good results using a GM round key lock/latch ***embly in the tool tray surface below the lid and a matching receiver on the lower inside of the lid. If you can look at a 1961/62 Corvette you will see how it works. The parts you need are in most GM cars from the 50's into the 70's but they are mounted the opposite way. Lots of the locks are inset slightly...cut it out of the junk deck lid. Be careful aligning all the pieces. I like to fit and check the workings using a flat bladed screwdriver through the lock hole, making sure the latch works easily before putting the lock in for the last time. What I like about it is your shaved lid has nothing sticking out. If you sink a license plate, the back side makes a good mounting surface for the receiver.
Thanks, guys, for the tips and the lead in the cl***ifieds. I saw that one and p***ed on it. Looks like it’s still available. I was hoping to find one at the Nashville swap but it was canceled. I do have a nice outside trunk handle, if I could only find it. Still packed in a box from the move. Guess that this project will have to wait until I get more settled and actually get the car moved. I appreciate the advice.
When I purchased my '47 Plymouth back in 1971, the trunklid was shaved. It has never had a latch and stays down just fine.
Maybe it wouldn't work in your case; but on deck lid release set-ups I've done, I made the mounting bolts for which ever component that was mounted on the trunk floor accessible from underneath. In case of a failure of the control or latch, all you had to do was to spin off a couple nuts and the lid would be free.
Looks good the way it's done, and, It's already done. I used a late model hood latch with pop-up spring, and respective cable release hidden, but easily accessible. If, for some reason, the cable breaks, I can get to the trunk latch to release and open trunk.
On mine, I found a hatch back latch from pick your nose with a built in popper. Pull the cable and the lid opens just enough to get my grubby meat hook to lift. Off an Eagle talon.
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