Technical Understanding 32 Ford Pickup Bed Construction

Premature question since the bed is still bolted to the frame but will be removing in a few weeks.

Onto my question. The last time I looked I was surprised to see wood on the underside of the bed despite the top side being finished as a metal floor. So how is this built. Metal over wood base or wood fastened underneath after ***embled metal bed?

Tried to find an exploded view of the bed but turned up nothing. So any info or pics would be great.

 

Each bed side has a subrail that runs the length of the bed, then there are cross members to join the two sides. The wood is then put over these cross members, then the metal floor is placed over the wood and riveted to the bed sides and bolted to the crossmembers.

 

My '32 pickup had wood with metal strips and the other two I helped build didn't have a metal floor, Might try asking Gary ( Krylon 32 ) he has built several pickups and probably knows a lot more than I do. HRP

 

These are 2 pictures of the subrails for a 33-34 pickup similar to the 32

 

My deuce pickup has the original metal over wood bed floor and it's as solid as it was in 1932.

 

Now I see how the metal straps (not pictured) are in place.

This one has some wood rot.

 

This is a 33 I'm building, made my own subrails, and using a late model pickup bed floor.

 

My 36 Ford pickup bed is built the same way.

 

well done!!

 

I scratch built a hand full of 32/34 beds many years ago. I had a local sheet metal shop bend the beds out of 14 gauge cold roll steel and I made a metal frame work similar to Hot Rod Primer. I welded my boxes together. I had Mark K Industries make my oak and stainless bed floors.

 

I built a frame out of 1 x 2 rectangle tubing for mine. I had tabs that bolted it to the frame.

 

Great story’s on scratch built beds. However I have no intention of blowing the bed apart. Well sort of.

The bed is coming off so I can finalize the rear suspension ***embly, run rear brake lines, install fuel tank then paint rear section of the frame.

After the above is done 2, maybe 3 things will be done to the bed. Clearance for 3rd member to underside of the bed. C notch front cross member of subrail structure for the drive shaft. The 3rd thing (maybe) would be to cut away the funky rear panel that was added (welded in) under the tail gate which by the way, wraps around the sides to the rear tires. I hate it but not my truck or call.

Now the kicker. Seeing your guy’s home built subrails has me thinking this thought. Can a guy successfully remove the wood then add back metal in it’s place without disturbing any of the fastening points and cause the paint to chip where visible?

 

When I did the pickups with the oak floors with stainless strips I was always worried about what happens in a soaker rain. With the original box with steel over wood floor I don't care. It's lasted 94 years just fine and will outlast me. Henry made them to use not look at.

 

All I know is this, there is some wood rot for sure at the left front corner. Is it Henry’s fault? no. But some addressing of some sort will need to be done once I really get me eye’s on at eye level while standing upright rather than on my back.

 

When I got the truck I drilled a small hole in each front corner of the box for drainage.

 

Do you want to save the original steel floor or replace it with something else? Wood and steel strips, new steel or steel late pickup bed floor? all of these can be done without removing the rivets on the bed sides, so you don't disturb the paint.
I don't think you will have to add clearance for your 3rd member.

 

There is less clearance between the top of the 3rd member and the wood on the underside (a strong 1”) compared to the C notch of the aftermarket frame for the axle tubes.

And yes, the steel floor stay’s as is.

 

Saving the steel floor without disturbing the rivets on the bed sides you will have to remove the braces of the sub rails by either taking the rivets out or cutting them near the ends and welding them back. You have to figure out what to use to take up the space you left from taking the wood out. without the wood the bed floor isn't very strong.
I brought the axel tubes to the bottom of my frame rails, the tubes will hit before the third member hits the floor but my frame isn't c notched. I also plan to use bump stops between axel and frame.

 

That’s a given.

 

Yes, as others said, wood under steel. On My ‘35 the problem was the wood was rotted and the metal floor pan was as well near the cab end. I had a shop bend up a replacement pan. Installed it and drilled holes to match the holes in the cross members. The wood underneath was replaced. I then bought stainless bed strips, polished them and cut them to the proper length. They were also drilled to match holes in the floor. I also drew up and had a local shop bend some stainless as a perimeter molding. Finally, I blew on tinted bed liner and ***embled it. The battery terminals will be covered with an old metal trunk that will serve as a battery box and offer some lockable storage. Biggest PIA was squaring up the bed mounting holes on my hands and knees to accommodate stainless carriage bolts. Yes there is an access hole for the fuel sending unit and you can kinda see it.
Hope this helps!

 

I just took the original rivets holding the subrails out of my A pickup bed (subrails had been torched years ago and needed to be replaced). On my A, there were not only 10 rivets per side but also 3 hidden spot welds. Since the subrails were much thicker than the bed sides, it was hard to get the rivets out without at least a little deformation of the bed side. I found a good approach thanks to another Hamber, and I don't know where the rivets are on the 32 bed but it's likely to be a mess if you're trying to remove the rivets and keep the paint intact.

 

My 32 pickup has a P&J's buggy spring rear cross member with Posie 9 leaf reversed eye 40 spring, P&J's shock kit and ladder bars. My frame has a mild c notch. I have no problems with the rear end hitting the underside of the box