Technical Brake drum problem

Im getting ready to do the brakes on my 53 special. The back shoes are 1.25 while the front are 2.25 wide.sadly I cant find the rear shoes in the correct width and sellers are saying front and back interchange OK..... I compared the fit and the 2.25 shoes fits snug while there shows a space left over with the 1.25 shoe on the drum. Can a front drum have the hub removed to use on the back? Or will using a wider shoe be ok at the rear??. First time I encounter this problem.

 

do you still have the old rear shoes?

 

Yes. I have two full sets front N back. 1 I plan to keep as a spare set like I do with everything else.

 

If you are referring to Buick, Rock Auto has 2.25" shoes that are listed to fit front and rear. IIRC, the originals were 1.75".

 

First thing I would do is evaluate the old shoes, and if they are not contaminated with oil or brake fluid, and have rivets hold them on, and are not worn too far, I would put them back on and not worry about it. This is what I've been able to do on several old cars. The wheel cylinders do need to be dealt with, but if they shoes are still serviceable, keep using them.

If they do need to be relined, look for a place that can reline them.

Don't try to use the wrong width shoes, it will not work.

 

Theres a huge difference both sz N fit. Why are they saying both are the same?? The front fits a bit big on the rear (see last pic) its the breaking system so I am iffy till I make certain

 

I figured just had to make certain. Both sets are shot and need to be relined. I will but the front from Raybestos and find someone to reline the rears. Not sure why they list front N back as the same but I hope people arent falling for it

 

Generally, everybody does the best they can. Rock Auto can be yer best friend sometimes, but older parts are running out. Getting parts in the mail that ain't quite right is a pretty frequent situation.

 

I believe there are suppliers that sell rivet on shoes and the rivets. Rears will last 2 maybe 3 times the fronts as said above. Even with a heavy car like your Buick with its use today this may be its last brake job. If the drums need turning I have never worried about them being slightly over size and usually find a flapper wheel on a drill being sufficient in preparation.
I have riveted my own shoes with a vise, hammer, punch, and flare receiver. Took a little time at first but after the first shoe I was pretty good at it!

 

If you put front drums on the rear they will lock up against the backing plate with the excess width. You'd need a spacer between the axle and drum to give the drums proper clearance to the backing plate. I'd find a place that carries the proper 1.75" shoes and install those in the rear. Might also be able to use front shoes with the width milled down on each side 1/4" and have new brake pads installed on them if you have a shop nearby that relines brake shoes.

 

I think you might have measured the rears wrong? They look like 1.75" wide, to me!

The only thing iffy about the old shoes, to me, is that they are bonded, instead of riveted. Can't really trust that glue to last that many decades, unfortunately.

 

I like that you're sticking with the drum/drum setup. Some guys "fall for" thinking they just gotta have discs. If 53 Special means Buick, you can make that car stop good.

 

I seem to recall that early 60s and older Buicks had a reputation for having better than average brakes. Four wheel drum systems on most cars tended to have larger diameter drums and wider shoes on the front, smaller and narrower brakes on the rear. It would be interesting to check the O.E. specifications in a 1953 Buick shop manual. Police or taxi packages, station wagons, or "professional" car ch***is probably had different brake systems than standard p***enger cars. Maybe that's causing some of the confusion with some of the aftermarket parts vendors.

 

If we knew where you were located someone could recommend a place to reline them close to you.

 

Send the original shoes here to be relined http://srv4.sitealiveauto.com/be/pages/?id=Site-About

Tell them the exact drum diameter and they will arc them perfectly.

 

My go-to for Buick stuff, Bob's Automobilia lists the 1-3/4" shoes but are currently out of stock. Kanter may also carry them.

 

correct 1.75 my mistake. I me***ured them right typed it wrong. Either way it wont work so Im getting the rears relined by a mom N pop shop. Fronts will be Raybestos since availabble

 

Overpriced too why im sourcing elsewhere wich is paying off.

 

Thank you. Never went this route but im guessing after drums have been cut??

 

I'd get out a grinder with some zip discs, a fine tip sharpie, a tape measure and some masking tape. Grab a respirator, eye protection, gloves and on a windy day get busy. As for the leading and trailing shoe material length, if you think of how it grabs when braking, it makes a bit more sense. Could this not solve the problem of it's to wide?

 

Arcing the shoes to the exact diameter of the drum (measure each drum individually and don’t mix up the parts) will give the best performance from the first use. No breaking in period. As long as you adjust them properly.

 

A quick look on the Rock auto site for brake shoes for a 53 Buick special shows that Raybestos and Wagner both list front shoes the correct width.
The key here is the 197 That is the universal number for the metal shoe design for those brakes. No matter what brand you need 197 brake shoes Note that 197 is in the part number of the off brand shoes somewhere. Now a couple of things about using the rock auto cheat sheet, If you click on the parts number it shows what else that part should fit. If you click on the info tab it usually gives the specs of the part.

1953 BUICK SPECIAL 4.3L 263cid L8 Brake Shoe | RockAuto

Both the Wagner and Raybestos shoes are easy to find on the net including on Amazon.

 

those are 2.25" wide, not 1.75" wide...

 

I would check with French Lake Auto in MN just to see what they might have (spares parts etc.)

 

This is why I just bought a brake rivet press

 

Related,, tho not to answer.
I had a '64 Cutl*** 4bbl, 3 speed, standard ( non power ) brakes.
Drove like a dream: quick and fast, good panic stops.
Ten years later I had a '64 Cutl*** 4bbl, automatic, power brakes.
Turned out to be disappointing in the stopping exercise.
It always wanted more room when stopping from speed
Found that the geezer that I had bought it from installed rear shoes up front.
That little difference in width made a big loss of control.

 

How do shoes of the wrong width even seat properly???

 

Simple, but no accident, the Holddown pins used were the correct length,
for those shoes
I needed to get pins that were the correct length, to install the proper shoes.
No big deal, at the time I was doing brakes all day anyhow
The seller was in it for dough.
Know your seller
The trouble it made was when in traffic if they got hot ( quicker ) the drum ( open side ) would grow enought to cause 'fade'.

 

What about center line of shoes to wheel cylinders?

 

Would amount to 1/8th inch ( correction make that a 1/4" ) still no problem.
Likely the old guy did no adapting.
He had a set of rear shoes sitting there ( 20 year owner ) needed front brakes to sell it and said "good enough''
So when I came along with the correct shoe the fit was what it should be.