So that's what I've been working on nearly three years now! I'll post a few pics here, but the main outline of everything is at https://theamcforum.com/FORUM/look-what-followed-me-home-61-american-convert_topic117692.html. So I've rebuilt the original Rambler trunnion front suspension, developed a disc brake bracket to mount 1999-2010 Honda Accord (V-6 automatic) disc brakes on all four corners, and bought a wrecked 2003 Ranger for the 2.3L Duratec DOHC four and matching five speed auto. Currently working on the wiring harness for the engine. I'd planned on just lifting the harness from the Ranger and plopping it into the Rambler, but Ford had a very convoluted and complicated wiring scheme in 2003. I talked to someone who did this (but not in a Rambler!) with a 2008 model and the wiring harness was much less complicated. Waiting on a Ford factory wiring diagram now. I'll par down the harness to just engine and trans controls, which won't be too hard due to the harness having a 42 pin plug to the engine. The engine/trans/ECU wiring is all contained on the engine, connects to the body through that single plug. It's the REST of the harness that's sop convoluted! From the day I brought it home Ranger was hit in the side then rolled down a ditch bank. $500 took it though! Engine runs great. Original engine out and sold. Original front trunnion suspension completely rebuilt. Honda Accord front and rear discs. Using a 3.78 geared Rambler rear axle, Ranger came with 4.10 gears. I'll be using a slightly shorter tire also, so gearing won't be that different. Only rust was discovered when the fenders were removed. The tops of these "trough" braces under every Rambler and AMC (63+ bodies have them open on top) were rusted away (better than the tops of the fenders!) and there were a few rusted areas at the back of the wheel wells where mud had ac***ulated over the years. If you're building a Rambler or any AMC remove the front fenders!! Engine bay with first coat of paint. When I get a warm day I'll sand this a bit and put another coat on it. You can see that 42 pin connector to the right Goes to everything on the engine and trans, including the ECU. Going through the harness is where I am now. When I get that done and the body wired (don't know if I'll make my own harness or buy a universal kit yet) I'll pull the engine from the Ranger and start working on mounting it in the Rambler. I think I'm going to make a cradle between the Rambler front and rear crossmembers (it had a four point engine mount system, two in front, two under bell housing) and put the engine in from the bottom -- how AMC/Rambler did it. I don't know if the trans will be alright hanging from the bell housing with no rear mount though. The old cast iron three speed (heavy!) that was in it just hung from the aluminum bell, but I might run a rear trans mount. Not sure how I'm going to do that yet. Might make a third crossmember, might just make a brace off the original rear crossmember. Depends on how it sits in the cradle I fab up.
I've been keeping a full time/money log. Most people say "don't do that!", but I know I'll have a lot more than the car will be worth in it, and more time than I care to. Right now not much cash, just a lot of time. If I were paying a shop $100/hr to do the work I'd be hurting though! You can see the complete log on The AMC Forum (link in first post), but here's the last 30 days or so: 18 Dec – 4.0 hrs – Cleaned rust under fenders and stripped paint in engine bay to prep for welding patches and painting engine bay. 22 Dec – 2.0 hrs – Treated and primed rusted areas under fenders. 28 Dec – 3.0 hrs – Started welding in new metal for rusted areas under fenders. 05 Jan – 2.0 hrs – I had some help so took advantage of it and removed the bed from the Ranger. We only took about 1.5 hours, but if I’d been working alone would have taken a little longer, so I’m reporting 2.0 hrs. 07 Jan – 2.0 hrs -- Welded in more metal. Finished right side except for one small hole in the A pillar. 12 Jan – 3.5 hrs – Finished welding under fender repairs. Sealed seams, primed, and painted areas that will be under fenders black. Painted under hood area with Rustoleum “Sunrise Red” spray paint. 13 Jan – 3.5 hrs – Pulled wiring harness from under the hood of the Ranger. Also removed radiator, AC condensor, ABS box, and AC/heat/fan package under the hood 21 Jan – 1.5 hrs – Started unraveling Ranger harness, mostly taking old loom and tape off. 27 Jan -- $42.50 – Ordered 2003 Ford factory wiring manual (from Bishko) 28 Jan – 1.0 hrs – Removed lighting wiring from Ranger harness. 160.5 hours, $4556.56 (as of 28 Jan 2026 – Purchased car 26 Nov 2022) I'm stuck with the wiring harness until FedEx finds the package that was supposed to have been delivered yesterday. So much for two day shipping! I removed the lighting wiring (front engine bay) by tracing back from the light sockets. At least that part was easy! Ford used that 42 pin connector on several models for several years, but changed the wire positions and colors year to year, model to model. Couldn't find one for a 2003 Ranger 2.3L on-line, so have to wait for the diagram. Thought Id get to work on it today and tomorrow...
I thought those Ford 2.0L. and 2.3L four cylinders were single overhead cam? Interesting build. My friend has the American coupe with a 350/350.
Correct on the Duratec -- a version of the Mazda MZR (specifically the Mazda L) without variable valve timing or a balance shaft. My understanding is that the balance shaft can be installed, Ford just elected to save money on the truck engine by not using it. It wasn't my first choice. I was actually looking for a Toyota Tacoma or Nissan Frontier four cylinder, but they were pricey. The 2003 Ranger for $500 was just too hard to p*** up! The wiring complexity and a couple things that were later changed are going to cost me some, but I'll still end up with a lower cost in the long run. Trunnions are not complicated! It's very similar to a universal joint. The are very simple, really. The 64-69 American/Javelin/AMX type is a little different, with a big rubber bushing in the upper, but the older type (and the upper used on the bigger cars) is real simple. Uses metal-on-metal bushings like a Tri-Five Chevy and others did. The Nash/Rambler/AMC trunnions actually came out in 1950, a few years ahead of ball joints (1954). They were a better IFS solution than some others. Easy to machine and manufacture.
The Jalopy Journal
