@Ed95 No affect on Boots . Mounting depends on intake , Mounting bolts on inside allows for narrow mounting area , (intake surface) You drill a squared off pocket hole & use Typically a cap screw bolt or taper head bolt , or regular head bolt ,if using Regular head bolt you need enough room to get the socket over the head of the bolt. "" & have to be low enough so rotors do not hit "" studs or bolts .030-.040 recess/ below in case .. Some flip case , there are a few ways to do , I feel all same amount of work. & look you want , & some times a certain way is only way you can do, Intake , or if adaptor needed for flat mouthing surface.. Not necessary But mill almost required again not necessary... Also how much detail you wanting to do to case ?? Alot of material needed to be removed if you want bottom to flow like top rounded is case Looking Round Or Oval by eye .. study pictures below to get a I deal how each one is done Diffrent , & all shown are Not the "" inside mounting "" The one $700 ins New cast F-H intake with 4 mounting ears , If you cut ears off , now witch way are you going to mount ? In side bolts Make windows in intake to access nuts or studs , Mill pockets ect. Then you have Option of 3:71,4:71 V case mount , Not as I pretty but another option .... & done these kind of mod's need to look 2& 3 steps some times more ahead !!
I see that makes sense! I like the pruned look better for sure and also like the HH falthead intake. The pop off valves are very nice to have
@Ed95 Not trying to discourage , when using a drill press with certain task you should use a beefy drill press , One that will Not flex , Drill center line & table .. The more accurate drilling will make Job easer & not get over stressful .. Back to drill press , Average one not a big deal to drill, & Hope fully speed adjustable, Drilling 1 inch or less , but lets say 3 ish inch or more & there flex in table or drill The hole will not be straight .. Also clamping , big enough table & sometime require unique thinking to hold .. Me some time's I give a little wiggle room in parts so I can make sure if needed to square things up . You are more likely going to need a ***ortment of different carbite's One's for cutting Aluminum fast Then fine ones for finishing , Different shapes & sizes .. Since seem your first time , Set back study & look, maybe notes & sketch draw.
LOL I see. I have a drill press. not worried about drilling the holes for studs now that I understand how that works...what's the best way to go about pruning the case? removing all that material seems like it will be fun!
definitely my first time! But I want to do it. I want to do most if not all of it myself. I understand there may be some tasks I am just not gonna be able to do.
I used bolts on my pruned 471 but I wish I had done the studs in retrospect. The reason is it is difficult to thread bolts in from the bottom, in a confined space, with fat fingers, while trying to align the blower and gasket. I ended up gluing the gasket to the blower then placing it and threading the bolts. Mike at H&H recommended not using grade 8 bolts, but said it likely wouldn't matter if there was a catastrophic event. If mine ever has to come back apart I'll be using studs when I reinstall.
Billy, even with the studs its tough to get to the washers and nuts on. My fat fingers, water manifolds in the way, it tough! I pretty much decided I would bolt the blower to the manifold then down to the block, but if have to take it apart I will have to drain the water remove the water manifolds then the intake or blower. Pruned cases look great but do create other problems.
The cost of cool! I have had mine off twice, it wasn't a nightmare, but it required patience and I had forgot to stock up on that.