Made up a Frankenstein throttle from the donor car, the original slant six throttle utilizes rod type linkage would’ve been a nightmare to adapt imo. Mounted it to the firewall, everything works, carb goes WO and kick down linkage functions as it should.
I’d try a throttle cable setup from a later Abody. Get everything from the pedal to the carb stud. The /6 cable will work fine it’s what I use on my 440s the intakes tend to get a little tall.
Used a /6 cable in my OT dart fastback when I dropped in the tall 2x4 intake. Trying to keep this from getting bumped! Looks like with the long top part you are going to have a ton of travel. When using a cable, try not to over extend it, they stretch enough as is. Also watch how it moves thru travel. Side rub is bad. A friend had 4 cables break over the years in 4 very different cars.
I added to the bottom also. When the pedal ends travel -stops- the carb is at WOT I’ve read about using the later model throttles, I just haven’t found one yet. Thanks @oldiron 440 and @RodStRace Dan
Now how many times did you smack your head on that shifter before you decided to wrap it up... Been there before, damn near poked my eye out.
Actually I was more worried about the shifter than my head lol. I have donated some blood to this project ha ha Dan
What's this Dart fastback that you refer to? Are sure it's not a Barracuda? Personally, I enjoy a bit of side rub, if you know what I mean. And I think you do.
Since the "fast back Dart" is off topic, I suspect he is referring to the "duster" style Dart from the 1970s. Side rub on a throttle cable (and most other auto parts) causes premature wear. Not quite the same enjoyment other side rubs may create. The slant 6 throttle cable is longer then a V8 throttle cable, I have long forgotten the exact difference in length between the two cables, but it seems to me the /6 was was around a 3"-4" longer. When non-stock intakes and carbs were used on the later Mopar V8s, the throttle cable was often a couple inches too short. Also be aware that the ends of the cable that attach to the gas pedal changed sometime in the 70s, and changed again between the 80s & the 90s. You need the cable end that matches the gas pedal you are using. There are also a few different brackets the bolt on the intake that position that end of the cable differently. The bracket on the intake can also modify the adjustment for the auto trans kick down linkage. If you can find a single donor to get the gas pedal, the intake bracket, the throttle cable, and the trans kick down linkage from, you will be ahead of the game. In our area, a pre 92 (before the beer barrow intake) Dakota V6 or V8 offered a pretty nice setup that should work in your Dart, but get everything.
Thanks Gene, I think what I have will get me up and going hopefully I can the little odds and ends to make things better at swap meets, I’ve looked in all the local junk yards already. Dan
Used some old exercise equipment tubing 2” for exhaust pipe. Made a slip joint on p***enger side for easier installation and would also be nice for oil filter changes. Using Thrush gl*** packs and exiting behind the rear p***enger wheel. We’ll see how it sounds May end up taking to exhaust shop and running out the rear. Dan
I had some on OT GMC 1/2 ton with a mildly cammed SBC I loved the sound, a little loud at WOT but I liked the sound. Dan
Ya know, everyone has one car they remember and regret selling. Mine was a 65 Dart 273 Hi Po, 4 spd. Black w/red interior. Fun little car. Also the only car of mine that I got paid to wrench on!. Remember when Mopar introduced the 50k mile powertrain warranty? Mine was one of those. Bought it in 70, before it's 5 year anniversary. It was burning oil so the dealer replaced the intake manifold gaskets. Mopar requirement because they often leaked, pulling oil from the galley. We knew that wasn't the problem, but factory requirement. When that didn't help it was agreed that it needed rings, but the only mechanic at the little dealership quit. I needed the car and the dealer agreed to provide the parts and let me do the work at my shop. AND, when the factory paid up he would pay me! I bought a new timing chain kit too. Also paid a machine shop to install PC valve stem seals while I had the heads off. Well since I have it apart, 65s were 235hp, 66s were 250 due to a better cam, so I opted for one of those and had a local engine rebuilder regrind my lifters. Cheaper than new. Sure enough, a few weeks later I got a check for my labor. Great little car. You're gonna love it.
That’s the one thing that I did as a young man was get rid of the cars I should’ve kept and appreciated the women I didn’t because I kept the ones I should have kicked to the curb very early.
Finally warmed up enough where I can heat the garage to a working 60 - 65 degrees without going broke. Sanded and 2 part epoxy primed the windshield fence area before the cold snap. Hopefully I’ll get the windshield and hood installed soon. Then I’ll add fluids start and back out of garage so I can clean and organize. Dan
When you have it running I would appreciate if you would video it and post it on YouTube or facebook. I sure would like to hear what your gl*** packs sound like.
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