Technical Zip (Vintage Air) Pump Riser Info Request

Long story, I should bought one several years back when I made these…

because I thought it would be a great conversation piece. Now to get a riser is super expensive and vendor limited. Now I knew I’d lose an inch of clearance but the engine still fit’s between the firewall and radiator “if” I use a flat faced fan like the one in the photo. Jump forward to today, well I want my 1” back so a stock fan with curved tips can be used and look more at home than a aftermarket flex fan.

Info I have gathered and would like some confirmation on before I drop more coinage around. The combined ***embly of the Zip Riser and 6 cyl water pump = 5.630”. A short V8 pump is 5.625”. That tells me that the single grove water pump pulley (1955-67) will work and not have any interference issues against the impeller housing or pump inlet?

It must since suggested GM #3995642 double grove pump pulley fit’s.

If you are running a Zip riser and a single grove pulley, throw me a pic or two. Thanks

 

I use zips with fender As & 32s with fire wall stock location & shell
Not great pics nor show car.
Race -R
427-434 sb
Steel pulleys work also , I just use whatever I can get to faster between buildings

 

I have done that on tight fitting 3 inch drive blower combo ,
I have even R&R propeller shaft in water pump machine and install.
1/8 here & there adds up , if later needs replacement then repeat again

 

The wall’s of the riser adapters I made are only 1/8”. I did think about machining water pump. That would mean if replaced I’d have to machine another pump. Then there’s I no longer have a mill.

 

don't forget fan shroud too

 

My self I have use & not use Shroud
With no issue , but other Have ..,
One thing I do not know about Zip &
6 cyl aluminum water pump is !!!??
RPMs I have not turned p*** 6,200
With a SS 6-7 blade fan with aggressive pitch ,,, & one shown in my post
Warring label Flex Light says 6,000. Max
Thats the fan,,,, """ NOW "" let talk about bearing shaft on Aluminum water pump , weaker then standard SB ???
7K plus ""BANG"? ? ?
Riser my cousin has a cast-iron one on his 32 looks like a Zip cast iron , it's the only one I've seen before made out of iron ... I think gm made cast iron one
for 366-427 tall deck BB in like late
60's 70's For 50 & 60 series trucks

 

No Tool way "" Hacksaw"" & file

 

500 miles from home, yup to

 

Mine with an aluminum 6 banger water pump.

 

@Johnny Gee , can you post a picture/sketch of just the adapter(w/ dimensions), if possible?

 

but..out on the road..

 

If you like to know how you make
Each side 3 pieces using gasket as templet , I am just jumping in , do not know how to describe to make but very easy 1/8 - 3/16 plate & 16th -1/8 for outside to conference ,, maybe by looking @ you get idle how to make
You can do a 1 inch to 5 inch offset if you like, top for water pump will need threads taped or nut welded in ..
Also i do not know if @Johnny Gee are solid stock , if so witch way bored the vertical p***age unless drilled then weld up drill hole roof ?
I'm sure someone else well explain a lot better

 

I’ll pull them off tomorrow and take pics. FYI, I did not invent this. They were available some ten plus years ago, but I don’t see them any more. The ones sold were a split design (CNC machined internal water p***age) with o-ring style seal to seal the two halves. The ones I made are 1” thick. The height is determined by the water pumps vertical bolt pattern. Of the 3 holes on each spacer/riser, the two lower holes are thru hole while the upper one is tapped to accept upper pump bolts.

 

Photos, etc here
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbc-water-pump-riser-hose-recommendation.1347087/

 

@Algoma56 I remembered that I had posted several years back what you’re asking for. It was on a thread where a member was having several bad day’s of self inflicted issues regarding alignment.
Also on that same thread I posted this…
picture from the manufacture that I stole the idea from. Why they mounted the water pump upside down? is beyond me.

Looking closer one can barely make out the split of their design.

 

Here’s a money shot.

 

@Johnny Gee , thanks for posting the pics!

 

Truth as well, I’m over doing or making stuff to impress so to speak. It’s just more work for nothing in the end. As well the lower crank pulley is another rework thing. Nope, over it.

 

ZIPs recommend you to run the heater hose back over to the head. I ran to the intake. Some show they have plugged the heater hose. Anyone have issues with the heater hose outlet plugged.?

 

I think Zips picked that byp*** location so they wouldn’t need to explain the various byp*** locations depending on whether you were using an older block or a newer vortec block, and then how those byp*** options change if you are using stock pre 86 heads, vortec heads, or after market heads. Make sure you understand how/where the gm engineers (or the aftermarket boys) routed the byp*** flow on your particular components and go from there.
On my last couple zips equipped sbc’s, I used the heater hoses with a manual shutoff/divert valve. Bonus: This way I can keep the hot coolant from circulating through the heater core inside the car and it can still function as a byp*** route. Works very well.
Will probably do something same/similar on current roadster project (with a vortec crate) if I do hook up a heater under the dash. At least that’s the plan at this point.

If I don’t use a heater, I’ll keep the byp*** routing simple, as you can see in this picture.

 

I saw that picture, and wondered if the hose was just looped back temporarily to hold it out of way, or it was plumbed in to intake. Now, I know.

 

The By p*** house , I have used & Not .
With No issues , Stock engine to 434.
Then I installed a Zip on Vortec
350 5.7
That was a Head ache after experimenting and trying different things ,, worked on literary week ..
On Vortec
I had to use the "Double Spring" thermostat & byp***, They work together @ least for me

 

I think I have all the parts in the garage, I'll take some pics and measurements.

This is with the single groove water pump pulley that is 2 13/16" deep. The pulley hits the water pump housing. The riser and water pump are 5 5/8" (5.625). It's not installed so can't help with the crank pulley offset.

 

^^^^^ Well, I pulled the trigger this morning on a riser. I’ll make it happen.

 

@Johnny Gee
The Zip's I used installed
All needed shim under top pulley
16th - 1/8 to line up crank , Most my balancer / hub not Oem tho
Moroso @ one time sold shim kits

 

Post #18 shows this. I have left over pump hub shims on hand.

 

In post 18 It looks like not Square ,
Not the ""V"" lining up , pulley @ angle Not straight
Vertical ??
If so is that what you are showing , pointing out ?
If so Bent or miss aligned machine of water pump flang steel part ,,,

Or riser @ block not Machine flat?
Looks in pick top is leaning back 10ish degs