A sharp turn to get it away from the manifold might help also, basically have it turn away from the engine soon after coming out of the master. It looks like it has a few inches of line to heat directly above the manifold the way it is.
Yep I left a little extra when installing Installed before engine was in. My typical mode of operation B*** Ackwards might be easier and better to shorten line. Dan
I see your ignition wires crossing over each other and in a bunch near the distributor cap end. If adjacent firing wires are on top of each other or a long side of each other you may have a miss fire that's hard to find. The factorys way of routing them seems odd. but thats the reason
When I was young, I got rid of the cars (I managed to ruin most of them), but I kept the same woman. Nearly 50 years of marriage later, I believe that has worked out pretty well for me. Of all those cars and trucks that have p***ed through my hands over the years (probably well over 100 of them), there was only one I wished I would have kept, but it didn't make sense to keep it back then (20 years ago), it may not have survived this long, either. Dan, the Dart is coming along nicely.
Thanks 50 years congrats we just celebrated 40 some women are saints! My goal is a daily type driver to have fun with. Trying to stay in the spirit of how it was done back in the day. Ie: do most of the work myself and scrounge parts etc. hence Dirt Cheap Dart. So far the only things I’ve paid to have done was the driveshaft and tire mounting. I might’ve saved a $100 doing the drive shaft myself by the time I bought the good u joints and tubing. The local tire shop is very reasonable I think he charged me $50 or $60 to mount balance and install steel valve stems. He will be the place I buy my tires from when I get everything sorted out. Dan
Can't be sure, I believe it was from JEG's got it in about 2012. You can purchase lots of different version's on line also.
I don't. but If you look on the distributor cap and see the wires that are adjecent to one another on the dist cap going to that cyl. bank run those 2 so they don't touch each other anywhere on their path to the spk. plug. If they are touching each other they can fire at the same time by inductive fireing. The way they are run from the factory doesn't seem as the neatest way the ign. wires could be run.This is the reason.
Filled the cooling system checked oil installed battery, spun engine with ignition off to mix the antifreeze and water and build a little oil pressure. I noticed a little coolant on the floor hmm must’ve spilled some. Cleaned everything up couldn’t see a drip spun engine again yep a drip at the weep hole. Everything was fine on the test stand. Oh well I’ll order a pump and install. Dan
Will Dan get his engine running after replacing the water pump?!? Join us next time boys and girls! Same Sharpone time, same Sharpone station!!!
To bad we’re not neighbors, I’ve got a new old stock small block pump I’d be more than happy to donate to a good cause…
You fellas that find a woman that you want to spend 40-50 years with, ,congratulations, especially if she puts up with your automotive addiction or better yet if she enjoys it with you!
Yep I got lucky, she puts up with my hobbies she even goes to swap meets and races on occasion. The races she enjoys, the swap meets not so much. In turn I’ll tag along to a craft show or two. Dan
oldiron 440 said: ↑ To bad we’re not neighbors, I’ve got a new old stock small block pump I’d be more than happy to donate to a good cause… ↑ Will Dan get his engine running after replacing the water pump?!? Join us next time boys and girls! Same Sharpone time, same Sharpone station!!! You know I thought about replacing the pump when I did the timing chain. Sometimes being a cheap A.. doesn’t pay lol I can get a gates pump from Rock Auto for 30. Cheap enough for the Dirt Cheap Dart Dan Stay tuned I’ll get ya sound track yet @oldiron 440 yet. Dan
For the ignition wires, the SBM is normally #1 at the front left of the dist. with the firing order going clockwise. Almost all are not an issue, with the main concern being #5 and #7 at the driver's side (left) rear. They are next to each other in the firing order and route to roughly the same location. These 2 wires are often spread apart to the outside of a 4 wire separator up by the cap or at the back of the valve cover. Example 5, 1, 3, 7. The concern is induced voltage before TDC (#5 causing a spark on #7 90 degrees before TDC) or flashover to path of least resistance (#7 spark on #5 90 degrees after TDC). Flashover is less likely since the wire voltage can jump to any part of the engine (ground) rather than the #5 wire and spark plug. It could induce voltage here too, but it's not an issue since the fire is already lit. Induced voltage is how the coil works so it's a realistic concern, although a coil is LOTS of windings and TIGHT proximity. That secondary voltage is a pretty good jolt, though.
BTW, if you have ever opened your hood late at night in a dark place with engine running and junk wires, you will see what kind of light show is going on!
There you go……pan down to the shield. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...dlYkEHV0bEycQwg8oAHoECDYQPQ&nis=2&ch=1&adurl=
Lol, very few stock parts on mine! QUOTE="Bill Fonzarelli, post: 15816666, member: 398261"]Good job....blends in and almost looks like a stock part![/QUOTE]
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