Technical Tad disappointed on what I found on my new 39

I took the windshield out of my new 39 tonight which is a super solid car to find this rot. I wanted your thoughts on cutting it out to replace? How bad does this hurt the car in the long run? Thanks

 

Looks like it’s the back of the dash? It’s not real structural but if you took the dash out it would be easy enough to fix on the bench.

 

Wish that’s the worst rust I ever had to fix

 

I don’t think the dash comes out in a 39? Like it does in the 41? Could be wrong

 

It does come out. Pretty much the same way. Bolts along the top, probably a 90 deg tab on the ends. Steering column. Etc

 

39 what ?

 

I f that's the worst rust on it you pretty much hit the lottery for a 1939. That's a very easy fix for most of us.

 

I know this is not The Ford Barn, but still yet, here when someone says 39 it’s pretty much ***umed that they are talking about a 39 Ford. If you are talking about a 39 Ford, then the dash absolutely unbolts out of it. I’m not sure about 39 something elses.

 

Not one for taking pictures are you?

Not to burst your bubble, but usually that kind of rust doesn't come with super solid. Cutting it out for a guy with some experience will still be work, don't expect a 5 minute tack job to solve it. Does it hurt the car, not if done right it shouldn't.


More pictures better the opinions.

 

Sorry 39 chevy

 

Car? Truck?

 

1939 Chevy 2 door sedan

 

Does it need to be cut out and welded up? Absolutely. Does it hurt the car in the long run? Not a bit, as long as the repair is done nicely. Minor repair. Probably a bit easier if the dash can be unbolted but it doesn't need to come out to weld that up, if the dash was welded in, you can work with that in place.

 

It's a simple matter of hitting the "full image" ****on to avoid thumbnails.

 

@1942g506......You might want to consider putting your general area in your profile, at least your state, as there could be fellow HAMBers nearby that would be willing to lend a hand or some expertise. Just sayin'.

 

I think the dash is welded in on a 39 Chevy. I will go against the grain a bit. That is inside the car. I would grind that to clean metal, and use a fiber gl*** reinforced putty on it (something like Tiger Hair or Mar gl*** if those names still exist). That will last for years in that area. That way you will have no heat to mess up the paint outside the car.
Especially if that is the only thing you have to do to the car.
If the welder is out for more repair and you are painting the whole car then weld it up.

 

I agree with the fibergl***, like welding if done correctly will last.

 

Wonder if JB Weld could be used?

 

Cut out
Make a new flange
Weld it in

done

 

If you are going through the trouble of cleaning the rust from everything (sandblasting), then also do the effort to weld in a new piece. If you are half-***ing it, then just slop some goo on top and think it’s fine.

 

Not everyone is a welder, many people don’t own a welder.

 

Everyone in a car hobby should own a welder
Unless there’s a health reason

 

I would be far more concerned about what looks like pin holes on the outside (left of the gl*** channel in the magnified picture) rather then the area behind the window rubber. The holes (if they are holes as they appear to me) on the outside will allow water to enter the car body and sit on the floor. If there is carpet, the carpet will absorb the water and begin the floor rot process. In a worst case situation, you may feel water dripping on your feet or legs in a rain storm.

The damaged area on the inside of the gl*** rubber (the right side of the picture everyone else is seeing) will cause the same issues, but will be a much slower process. Usually the water won't get past the rubber until the vehicle is in heavy rain, depending on how well the rubber seals against the body. The rubber doesn't often seal as well as most think it does.

 

So, have you looked at the front floor? Just curious if this is the only area rusted.

 

I sell the "goo" for a living and I wouldn't use it to fix something like that. As Anthony said if you are working on old cars you need a welder.

 

Half ***ed.
-done with little effort or care; incompetent or inadequate.

Sounds harsh. I think he surp***ed that by taking the windshield out. What gets done now to fix it, that's an equation of skills + equipment / over ambition divided by time. I think that's the formula?
And as a welder, I'll call BS to you needing one to fix that or work on cars. Handy, yes, necessary, not always.
Did we not see in a frame post where welding caused a problem? To be clear, as in crystal, it's my opinion the choice of any repair should be intent and purpose. His might be cheap and good not good and cost me what I can't afford or know to operate to reach someone elses high standard.
Besides, what kind of welder? Good old fashion Oxyacetylene? GMAW or FCAW. GTAW maybe? How about one of those low amp Sears 1/16" stick welders? Don't for get a copper backing to chill it.
How about he wire wheel the **** out of it, use acid to remove any last bit, a degreaser wipe followed by panel adhesive a backing under it for support and fill it with more adhesive. Smooth it out and good to go. Wham bam thank you mam.

 

I see that is the center of the windshield. Isn't there a good size garnish molding that will cover a lot of that?

 

I have a welder and not afraid to go after it. Yes it will hide all of it actually.

 

Yes, weld some metal in, dress it down with a cut off wheel on edge, seal, and back in service.