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Projects Shade Tree Model A Speedster Kind of Thing

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by rwrj, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Here's a video, just for kicks.

     
  2. mohr hp
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,663

    mohr hp
    Member
    from Georgia

    It's as if it's growing out of the woods!
    Hood looks great. Good craftsmanship.
     
    rwrj likes this.
  3. Deutscher
    Joined: Nov 12, 2024
    Posts: 286

    Deutscher
    Member
    from Germany

    More great solutions!
    Thanks for the video.
    The racer is absolutely beautiful overall; I'm really looking forward to your first ride.
    Cheers, Harald
     
    Ziggster and rwrj like this.
  4. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Well, here you go, Mike. Against my better judgement, but... Actually, it's not that bad to get into and out of. I think I'll eventually add a step on each side so I don't have to grab my knee like that. Getting old ain't for sissies.

     
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  5. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    I want to paint all that aluminum, but we are having a little rainy spell here. I did get the underside of the hood scuffed up, acetoned, and primed.

    tempImageCBbDrU.png

    That dried enough before the rain came that I could put it back on . Since the weather isn't cooperating with my painting plans, I shifted to working on mounting the headlights. Here is what they look like just as they were on the old car:

    tempImageWRS60c.png

    That's not bad, and the feet of the stands line up with the frame just right, but I built that car imagining that I was back in about 1930 or so, converting a 1928 Model A. I like pretending that way, using the right parts and tools and methods as much as I can. Since I'm using a bunch of 1937 parts here, I had to shift my imaginary time-frame up to about 1939 or so, and something about those lights just doesn't fit for me on this version of the car. I wanted them to be closer to the centerline, so I chopped a few inches out of that crossbar and clamped them back on.

    352F82B6-0F3B-4C03-9023-D9DD00F43050.JPG

    That spoke to me. The only problem is that there isn't room on my diagonal crossmember braces for the long oval feet of the headlight stands. I briefly thought of heating and twisting them to line everything up, but I remembered from modifying them way back when that the uprights are solid, so I decided to drill and tap for 3/8" studs and bolt them through the crossmember.

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    I drilled the ch***is, bolted them on, and did a little torch bending to line everything up.

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    That's an in-progress picture. I got them closer. Then I marked and cut the crosspieces and turned a little plug to join them.

    A0C83831-C9C3-4220-BACD-9365230D7EB7.JPG

    That little ridge centers it. I also marked the pads on the bottoms of the stands, hacksawed them to rough shape, and sanded them down.

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    Then I bolted it all up.

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    You might have noticed I put the whole suppot ***embly on backwards, which moves the lights in tighter with the radiator, and puts them right in line with the axle. Looks better to me that way. I think my imaginary builder might wish he had some more "modern" looking lights than those old Model T units, but I really like them, so there you go. Also, I'll adjust that grill mesh so that it's plumb with the crossbar. It's just wired in, so easy money there.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2026 at 11:00 AM
  6. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 2,920

    oliver westlund
    Member

    Really digging the new version! Glad its coming back together!
     
  7. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    I didn't like the unfinished rear edge of my cowl. Just .050" aluminum hanging out in space. I've zoomed in on an older picture to show what I mean.

    35939D96-58DA-40B0-99BB-E28B2ED6EE28.JPG


    That won't do. I decided to try to slot some 1/4" aluminum tubing and see if I could slip it on there. I found a slotting saw for my father's little milling machine. It's .040", so I figured that was just perfect. Made this little jig to push the tubing through.

    IMG_3381.jpeg

    The idea is that the little hacksaw blade end, which is just a touch smaller than .040", will run in the slot as the tubing comes out and give me a slit straight down one side of the tubing. (The saw blade runs in that other, longer slot.) It worked better than I had any right to expect.

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    Then I just filed a little bevel on the rear edge of the cowl, hand bent the tubing to fit, and tapped it on with a plastic mallet. Well, it was a little more involved than that. The slot tried to close up where the bends were, but it all worked out in the end.

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    I'm going to make some little aluminum wrap-around clamps and space them out every so often along there. It seems pretty firmly attached, but I'll feel better with the clamps. It sure looks more finished to me, though. Probably marginally safer, too, for what that's worth in something like this. I think I'm now ready to paint, as soon as we get some appropriate weather.
     
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  8. Deutscher
    Joined: Nov 12, 2024
    Posts: 286

    Deutscher
    Member
    from Germany

    That looks fantastic! Isn't that ingenious? Yes, it is!
    I've been racking my brain trying to figure out how to mount a metal bracket to hold my light switches and maybe the indicator light.
    You showed me the way.
    May I use your idea?
    Greetings Harald
     
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  9. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Of course. No need to even ask. Hahaa
     
  10. riv63
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 240

    riv63
    Member
    from Texas

    Very ingenious.

    Are you going to "clock" your screws?
     
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  11. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Nah. Those are self-tapping sheet metal screws through one wall of the tubing. Thin backing and pretty co**** threads, so I just tightened them by feel. Afraid if I got fancy like that, I'd just strip a bunch of them out and cause needles aggravation.
     
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  12. Dubonet Garage
    Joined: Jun 10, 2022
    Posts: 320

    Dubonet Garage
    Member
    from France

    That's absolutely fantastic!
    I'll keep that in mind for a future project.
    Thank you!!!
     
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  13. Crusty Chevy
    Joined: Aug 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,337

    Crusty Chevy
    Member

    Next time you rip the canvas...just skin the whole thing in aluminum and rivets. It looks pretty awesome as is but I cant help but envision it fully clad.
     
  14. 282doorUK
    Joined: Mar 6, 2015
    Posts: 532

    282doorUK

    That's a rather neat and useful trick you came up with, top marks!
     
  15. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Shoot. Anybody can have an aluminum car body. Hahaha. Seriously, though, I would have a bit of a weight penalty there, and I also think that it would be hard to avoid oil-canning on those big flat panels without any compound curves, unless I went to a thicker aluminum. This fabric is under tension, so that's not as big of an issue. I also just wanted to teach myself how to do this.

    If I wanted to leave it unpainted, it might be nice to have it all uniform. I just have never personally been all that fond of bare aluminum car bodies, polished or not. As a matter of fact, I've already started priming my aluminum.

    B98DB695-F43B-4015-AA08-DD724F9CC15C.JPG

    That was yesterday, when it was warm enough. Not quite painting temps yet today, so I've been working on the little clamps to hold my molding on. Just cut some aluminum rectangles, bent them by hand and then in the vise, using the ubiquitous Model A brake rod as a former initially, then a piece of the actual aluminum tubing for the final squeeze. Rounded the flats on the sander, and done.

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    These will go around the molding and land top and bottom on the cowl. I'll hand rivet them with cut-off pop rivet stems. A bit unconventional, but that doesn't bother me.
     
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  16. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    And here they are in place. I ended up using copper tacks for my rivets. Just easier to deal with, and all I'm trying to do is keep that tube from getting accidentally pulled off of the cowl.

    C187DFEF-8B1F-489A-8D71-5453167729A3.JPG

    F699EADB-4952-4AC8-908A-7AE8AFD369AB.JPG
     
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  17. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Here's the first coat. It was still a little cold for painting, but It's going to warm up today. I'll have to see if the brush marks settle down a bit before I decide on a second coat this afternoon. Might have to give it a few days and do a little sanding. Knowing me, I'll probably decide I can live with them and plug on. Haha.

    95FEE7C5-7D2E-4D27-937C-5D0EDE1AD1F8.JPG


    tempImagecmt5LM.png

    I am pleased with the look, though. Seems much more cohesive than it did with the bare aluminum/painted fabric combination.

    Our local police department has a charity car show at the end of April every year. I'm going to try to make that. Knock on wood. I'm not a big car show guy, but this is for a good cause. Also, shy as I am, I'll admit I appreciate the affirmation. I had the old car in that show several times and it was always interesting to see how different people reacted to it. Almost all positive, but with widely varying levels of enthusiasm and/or puzzlement. This one should be the same, hopefully minus the damn Chitty Chitty Bang Bang comments. Haha.
     
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  18. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 27,335

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You really sit in that nicely RW...I have to ask...windscreen? I may have missed the mention...
     
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  19. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Thanks, @Stogy

    I think I might repurpose the already repurposed MGTD folding job from the old car. With alterations, of course.

    9E97621E-0F58-4187-806C-A39BA784A22E.JPG
     
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  20. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 27,335

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Perfect...like an old friend...you need a place to hang some mementos. Mind you I have come across vintage discards many times and thats always a treat to see even if its too far gone
     
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  21. hook00pad
    Joined: Mar 5, 2013
    Posts: 64

    hook00pad
    Member

    Hey RW, I really like your edge treatment on the cowl piece. When you mentioned the entry/egress method, I thought about a couple of farm buggy steps like were found on grain wagons that you also rode on. I bought a couple at a flea market a few years back, thinking I'd restore an old farm wagon I still have from my grandad's farm. I think they were cast iron and said Studebaker on them. Something like that might work on your speedster. Just bolted on.

    Al Hook
     
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  22. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Thanks. I actually had a pair of those on the first version of this car. Thought they were cast, as well, but this one sure bent during that wreck.

    5FA939E9-B628-42EE-8015-F502D0D7648B.JPG

    Even if I managed to get it back straight, though, I've lowered the car enough that they just won't work now. I'll figure something out. Or just keep grabbing my knee. Haha
     
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  23. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,324

    chiro
    Member

    ^^^A little heat and torque and that step will look perfect on "Speedster 2.0"
    Andy
     
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  24. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 913

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    I agree that the style fits, but they now hang below the level of the radius rods. That's just asking to be bent again. Haha.
     
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