Featured Hot Rods Painting The New Roadster

Once again I'm crawling out from under my rock. I asked Mike to get me a rough idea how much it was going to cost to paint the new full fendered 32 roadster. I knew I was in trouble when he said the Wheatland Yellow was $2300 a gallon plus all the primers, sealers etc. Sand paper is another story. The world has p***ed me by. When I built the first version of this roadster in 1979 Gary Gerberding did the paint. He primed, sealed and shot it Wheatland yellow with I think a catalized single stage paint. He was a good enough painter that he prepped the surface, sealed it, shot color and walked away. No color sanding and buffing. I drove the car everywhere for several years and not only did it look good but held up well. Today's double/triple coat/ sand and buff paints ****. I don't need another car I'm scared to drive in this gravel covered world. Now I know why my last couple finished builds have been black satin suede. I'm gonna crawl back under my rock.

 

Acrylic enamel
Not the best paint but affordable

 

I got hit with that same thing with the Tri coat red that looks like candy red that comes on an and import car. My problem is that both of my former students who can turn out fantstic paint jobs both have serius health issues so I might be talking to the guys down town at the local rebuild and sell shop that turn out a lot of late model high end rigs that look like they just rolled off the showroom floor wheb they set them out front for sale.

 

Here is a way to save some money on paint.

 

Why is paint so expensive? What a racket!

 

C'mon man, get with the game. It's still got a hood and sides on it........

 

Yeah that sounds like a lot of money just for 1 gallon..

Red is where you pucker up, smear the Vaseline yourself and bend over....

....

 

Go to tractor supply and get a gallon of tractor paint and stop by Harbor freight and pick up a $9.99 paint gun on sale. Tell everyone that's its original paint and 99% won't know the difference.

 

I'm glad I don't like fancy paint.

 

I think if you look at a different brand of paint, in the same color, you could cut that cost by over half.

 

Have had 10 hot rod Fords(all hot rod flatheads) over a 60 year period and only painted two(2) .Paint is not that important to me; I would rather spend my money on how gr8 they run, how well the general public appreciates them, and how I never had to worry about every flaw that was inherent to this particular “ride” that comes with everyday use(never trailered any of my cars to shows); they had to be a “cool ride” regardless of paint.FYI my 55 Ford 2 dr post is my daily driver(not flathead power)and has ORIGINAL PAINT.How many 70 year old cars can make that statement???

 

Try this place
Restoration Shop Citrus Yellow Acrylic Enamel Gallon Kit, Auto Paint | eBay
$233 for a gallon pant kit
They have other colors.
I have some daily drivers that i neglect and it holds up pretty good

 

All paints are sand and buff
Especially lacquer

we just got pickier.

 

If you want to do it like 79:
Google says around $515 is the equivalent of $2300 in 1979
That’s a good bit of paint in 1979 dollars
You can get a gallon of high build lacquer primer for $100 (+ the thinner)
And a gallon kit of Wheatland enamel for under $250
So that original 79 paint can be reproduced less than the $2300 quote

 

I’m gonna be buying my paint from Tammy at Revolt for my OT daily just because everyone that uses her stuff says it’s the best and affordable

 

I found some cheaper single stage catalyzed paints. Problem is I can no longer paint because I breathed in to many catalyzed fumes 40+ years ago. Also the shop I use is used to a certain brand and doesn't like to deviate.

 

Don’t blame that shop. Most will not deviate from the formula that works for em

it’s probably either pay the $$$ or find another shop.

 

Shop-Line PPG. It's a production level product, cost is designed for shop profit margins. Quality is in the hands of the user. Durability and ease of care is in the choice of clear. They're all the same, 4 to 1 paint to catalyst. There's a finite number of polymers and solids and solvents. Pick your favorite. Single stage Shop-Line finishes out like the old days, not the plastic toy wet look of specialty finishes we see rolling in on tire condoms over mirrors. I'd call it real. What us old bastids are used to seeing. I can't show it but I did a Shop-Line gig on a front row show car. It was 9 yrs ago and all in it wasn't much more than your gallon. Just sayin...

 

We'll figure out something. Mikes done 11 cars for me some customer and some mine. I may just have so **** it up. I want a finish that can be repaired without repainting the whole car like we had in the past.

 

You have other options, but you might need to find another paint shop.

https://www.eastwood.com/oempaint/a...cd35cc274b2571cc0f/volume/gallon/paint_type/s

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/products/restoration-shop-custom-paint-c

I think the colour code you're looking for is WA5247.

 

@krylon32 I don't know your issues with shooting and I'm NOT making light of them. That stuff will kill ya.
Have you checked into a fresh air suit and mask? They aren't cheap, but it might let you shoot yourself.
Probably a good idea to do the prep in too.

 

Mid to top their paint cost has gotten outrageous. It is definitely a shocker when you hear the price for just material.

 

Yeah tell me, my daily is fixing to get its paint job and I’m gonna guess that the materials alone will be around $8k to $10k for something that I’m gonna be putting in a parking lot regularly. It’s going to be a candy with multiple layers of pearl ghost flames all buried in a few gallons of clear. The way I see it if I'm going tell folks that I painted the truck I don’t want a ****ty looking cheap paint job to show off. But then again Im running a nitrous motor in it with 2 kits so don’t listen to me because I’m not right LOL

 

Gary when I built my '32 pickup I knew I was not going to do a super nice paint job, I have always liked primer but hated the way it looked after 6 months, then I discovered the Kirker semi-gloss black and was sold.

 

I have used Kirker and Summit paint since 2006. I do put higher priced clear on the better units. Years ago I found that I could spot in single stage urethane just like I did lacquer in the old days. The problem with what I mentioned is lack of color choices. This is something we all face every time we do a project. I don't see it getting better.

 

I agree with Danny.
I've used Valspar/John Deere semi-gloss Blitz Black on a lot of my builds...it looks great and have never spent more than $500 on materials for a paint job.

 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...nt-high-gloss-tractor-yellow-1-gallon-2335926

How close is this to your Wheatland color?

 

I don't have a dog in this fight, but this looks pretty good to me.

 

Says brush on, direct to metal, huh, wonder if they have that in REALLY DARK BLUE?

 

] Here's the roadster I built in 1979 I'm working to duplicate. That's why I'm stuck on Wheatland Yellow.