Anybody wanna buy any snow? I have plenty of plain ol snow, you know, some leaves, sticks, dog poop, and discolored a little bit. It's $10 for a heaping PU load. I have plenty of pure white virgin snow. $25 dollars for a heaping PU load. (BTW this isn't a "snow job") I have a question about this gas tank float material, that's in the picture. A couple of years ago I bought a Stewart-Warner gas tank float ***embly and vintage looking guage kit. Went ahead and made the pick-up, vent tube and the SW float ***embly to fit my '32 tank. Got ready to ***emble it all the other day and noticed the "weird" looking float didn't resemble what common float material I have been used to seeing. I have seen solid cork, something like styrofoam, ping-pong ball material, plastic like what milk jugs are made of, and the usual br***/copper floats. I inquired on the Stewart-Warner web site. All they stated was, it's made of a solid material that will not saturate or get any "pin-holes." But look what happened when I put a br*** float and the SW float in some water! I don't remember seeing the copper/br*** floats riding that low in a liquid. Nor have I ever seen a float riding "kattywhumpus" like in the picture. (when I had the picture taken, was the first time either float had been in any kind of liquid) Is this "new" material SW is using, any good? Wouldn't the plastic float ***embly wear quickly putting a uneven strain on the metal float arm?
No doubt some sort of closed cell foam. wouldn’t worry about it floating wonky, it’ll still lift the float arm ok. Why would it ‘wear’?
the all br*** one are on dennis carpenter- wait sold out, but on amazon here is this- search for this looks the same ACP FM-EF005B Fuel Level Float For 57-89 Mercury, Ford
Put the br*** float in near boiling water and it'll expand the air inside it. You should see air bubbles where a hole is. We've had no luck with br*** floats on Tri-5's so the fix is a plastic float for a 64-73 Mustang or CJ Jeep. They clip into the same place here [only $6] https://collinsbrosjeep.com/55-86-cj-fuel-sending-unit-float/ No worse than a plastic gas can
I have had 2 br*** floats go bad after a few years in diesel fuel in the Power Wagon , diesel fuel is supposed to eat into br*** and copper . I’m trying the new style you have next
Snyders sells a floats to replace the gas gauge in model Ts and As https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=982542&cat=41842 https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=979370&cat=41706
When I worked in a local tri 5 parts store we stocked br*** floats from the local parts warehouse. When the after market float failed we sold them a different br*** float. I’m thinking for Fords.
The alcohol in the gas will eat a br*** float. When I got the Astorian the gas gauge did not work. when I removed it the br*** float was half eaten away. I only use non oxy gas in my old cars, but it had that **** in it when I got it....
Here is a better picture of the Stewart-Warner float "floating crooked." The pictures I first posted it hard to see the level of solid float.
All you guys that are blaming the "ethanol-alcohol" attacking copper-br*** and plastic. Here are a couple of experiences I have noticed in the past. Every "Snuffy Smith" copper-br*** moonshine still survived more corn-ethanol-alcohol than has ever been put into a car's gas tank. Never say never. I got my hands on a discarded br*** gas tank float that was full of suposidly ethanol gas! You could feel the liquid sloshing inside the float tipping it back and forth, so it was almost plum full of something liquid. I drilled a small hold into the float and dumped the contents out on the metal work bench, and tried to light it. I would not burn. The liquid tasted like old, flat, stale water. A old guy, (like me) had a beautiful restored '65 Mustang Convertible. He ran every aftermarket gas additive you could think of, and strongly believe in each one. Lead additive, Octane booster, Marvel, Sea-Foam, Blue Sta-bil, and probably more gas additives than I can remember. Gas guage quit working. Had one of those plastic (milk jug) floats. Mechanic, (also a old car collector) blamed all of those additives he was running for causing "pin holes' in teh plastic. I was over at his place and you could hold the float up to the light and see the it was 1/2 full of some liquid. Drilled a small hole in the float, dumped contents in a plastic rattle paint can lid. It too would not light and tasted like old stale water. I am wondering if it was condinsation,,,,,,,? How the vehicle was stored during the winter months? Or,,,,,? Those plastic floats are made of the same plastic as milk jugs. High-density Polyethylene (HDPE). Wonder if the aftermarket plastic gas cans with the "Rube Goldburg" pour spouts are made of the same plastic? Meaning, those plastic cans HAVE to be any petroleum resistant! Think lawsuit-bankrupt. I have a small solid rod of that HDPE. Made bushings out of. Placed it in a bucket of water, and it immediately sank to the bottom like a rock! Solid form is sinks. Hollow it floats. Does anybody know what the material is those Stewart-Warner floats are made out of, that I may look up the properties? Thanks
I’m still struggling to see what is the problem? The ‘new’ float is a composite of some sort of foam plastic and br***, despite the br*** section being hollow it’s likely still more dense than the foam element, hence the uneven balance. it floats, fit it and move on!
Ok, 1st issue is that these floats float. My question is, are there now telemetry gauges that sense the GPS location of said float? Does it just wander around in there like a pet shop goldfish? I thought it's position was dictated by a wire rod that rolls a rheostat in gauge sending unit as it floats up n down. Unless it's an old Model A then it rolls a dial behind a lense. That's the nicest way I can say who gives a **** what it does when you toss into a container before you attach it to the wire?
Once it's snapped into the circular arm it's not going to be an issue. It will work fine. After having a few br*** floats for my Suburban from Cl***ic Industries fail at the solder joint, and getting replacements that likewise failed, I went to the local parts store and asked for a float for a 1960's Mopar as they are sort of like milk jug plastic material. It's the same size and has worked great for over a decade now.
lol I'm all out of snow. It all melted! I would have a hard time filling a 5 gallon bucket. Next year maybe,,,,,,,.
To answer your question. I am familiar with the usual kinds of float material, and their properties. It's just when I saw the SW float, I did not know what is was made of, (other than the br*** portion. It actually turns on the back (white) part, but will not screw off.) and it floated crooked. NOTHING like any of the previous float materials I am use to. So I am courious as to why? I wanted to diesect the float to see what it was made of, and why it floats crooked. Stewart-Warner does not offer much information about it, and does not sell that float seperately. I gotta buy a complete other float ***embly to get just that pictulair float. So, what does one do when confronted with a unknown. Go on the HAMB site to find out. The HAMB site has more car related information avalible than a whole stack of enclycopedias! (just wish it had "spell check". Very afraid of going to a spell check site to get a correct word, then coming back to the post and find it's , ****, all gone.) Anyway. You say it's a foam-plastic, partially wrapped in a cover or br*** composite material,,,,,,,. Sure would like to find out the properties of this "foam-plastic" material. I "think" I know why part of the float is br***. The metal float arm will not ''compress", or break the foam-plastic part when snapped-hooked around the float. Yes, the ***embly fits (barely, lots of gentle twisting, turning, back and forth, some cussing) the small hole in the '32 tank. The tank is original, and I didn't want to cut the small original mounting flange and weld in something bigger in diameter. So your advice is to install, hook it up, and move on. Will do. But until I find the properties of that "foam-plastic", there will be that nagging "what if" feeling. Thanks
Finding the properties of it may be like chasing the wind depending on where it was made, what plastics were available at the time, whether they are just a conglomeration of recycled plastics. What plastics were the cheapest at or available at the time of manufacture. The idea of it not floating even doesn't seem like an issue either, the mounting arm will hold it level. I've seen br*** barrel floats that don't float even just do to the weight/amount of solder on one end... ....
It is not the alcohol alone that causes the problem of eating br*** and aluminum. It is phase separation and the acids that it creates... https://ethanolrfa.org/media-and-ne...le-long-before-water-uptake-becomes-a-concern
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