Technical TECH: Steering Box Rebuilding for Early Fords/F1/F100

So, I am going to ask the obvious, but "Were you a machinist in a former life?" Impressive work.

 

No, I've never worked as a machinist, but have been a home shop hobbyist since high school. I took 3 years of high school machine shop and drafting. My older brother bought a lathe when I was still in HS and I started machining car parts then. I went on and got a degree in mechanical engineering, but ended up working in another field. This has just been a lifelong p***ion.

I've wanted to build hot rod parts since I was about 12 years old.



And now it's fnally becoming a reality after 40+ years. Even the 7 days a week part...

 

A degree in Mechanical Engineering never hurts.

 

The level of talent that you possess is remarkable. And for you to be willing to "steer" us in the right direction with this tutorial is equally remarkable. I humbly tip my hat to you, sir.

 

I hear ya. I am on the same journey.

 

Great thread.
I wish I had access to your knowledge when I rebuilt a Gemmer box into a cowl steering box for my champ car.
I believe I got all my rebuild parts from Mac's.

 

While I will never be at the attentive to detail level of Neal, I do know how to use this aspect to better the environment around and in direct contact with my Mechanical pursuits.

You see Neal has the ability to just see stuff as it needs to be. Plain as that. "Right" is an adjective of the highest order around him. In fact if I had to describe any of his work "Right" is easily applied.

The Steering in my '34 Pickup is no different. Once like the SS Minnow on a stormy windswept day where the Tiller just went with the wind and was more of a suggesting device than a piece of directional equipment.

Literally you had to fling the old wheel in the direction desired and hope for the best prior to applying binders to make sure it Port or Starboarded the correct amount and came back, never centered on its own. A real joyride- Not

So Having known of the Neal's Steering Box prowess I finally bit the bullet when Momma wouldn't take the thrill ride anymore. Best Damn Decision ever!

Yeah I know the Box is the prettiest thing on the Truck, but hey shouldn't it be? I didn't want to change the look of my Old Truck, just make it more fun.

It now goes like a Roller Coaster on fresh Rails! All due to the Neal.

In addition Neal worked with my desire to keep the light switch, horn and even change the wheel from a '34 to a '38. As you see in the photos all went 100% Bueno. Best of all it's still "my old truck" I say this because there is magic in using new stuff that ACTUALLY fits and works with the Character and Feel of the favorite "Old Stuff". I just didn't feel the need on this Truck to get rid of the funk. Clean and Sound yes, overly shiny - No.

You see this is a new box, grafted into an existing space occupied by a SBC and Lincoln Trans. But the OG wheel, Horn ****on, Tube, Ignition Switch, Light Switch Rod, Column Drop, Floor Starter, and Lower Switch Bulb and Keeper all went on like factory. All because Neal just sees stuff "Right".

So if you want the "Right" Stuff call on Neal.

I couldn't be happier.

PS - I too am a mildly challenged kid who just wants to be in a shop building Hot Rods all day long everyday

 

Is anyone else getting some red X's on pictures on the first page? I'm curious to see the worm gear pics, of what worn/damaged ones look like. I have to do my Model A Gemmer box and new worm gears have been out of production for the last couple years. I've got a few used ones but I don't really know what I'm looking at as far as if they're good or not. Some of the pictures on the first page are showing but those aren't, would be super helpful.

 

I can see them all clearly

 

@Squablow ,

They show up just fine on my phone. I'll be home tomorrow evening. You want me to email them to you?

If you do PM me your email address and I'll get them to you Sunday evening or sometime Monday.

 

I might, I appreciate the offer and I'll let you know. I'm gonna try to update some stuff on my computer first, seeing as I'm apparently the only one that isn't seeing the pictures. If I can't get them to work, I'll let you know. Thanks!

 

This is what a good worm should look like. Smooth bearing surfaces and even, smooth worm.



Here are some more pics of damaged worms. A couple of typical problems plus 2 from the hall of fame!

 

That's exactly what I wanted to see, these pics come up fine for whatever reason. Would it be OK if I post a couple pics of some of the used ones I have, to get your opinion on which one to use (or to continue to hold out hope someone starts repopping them again)? I would really appeciate the insight, you seem to know your steering boxes.

 

Very nice write up,top notch work!
I have a question,does the length of the br*** tube matter?
I went to heavy on the torch and burned about 3/4 off the br*** tube,I drilled the crimped part and soldered the now shortened tube..
Tia

 

Minimum length is about 5-1/2" on the tube. You just need to make sure that ar the column angle you have, that the tube is long enough that it goes above the lubricant level in the steering box.



Originals ranged from 5-1/2 to 6-1/2"



And BTW, you soldered the cover plate on inside out. The other side is ground flat from the factory as a gasket surface.

Post away. Hopefully the information will be helpful to others.

 

Iwanna, you put the tube out the wrong side of the plate.

 

@NealinCA I considered messaging you with a question or two about these steering boxes but decided to search first ask questions later, well I had missed this thread, thankyou so much for sharing your wisdom & knowledge here.

I'm in the process of rebuilding one of these steering boxes, out of good (ish) second hand parts for our 48. At this point there is a reasonable amount of free play at the end of the travel in each direction & it's tight in the middle (straight ahead). is this an indication of something worn or too much travel?

I swapped the worm over from a 37-40 column length to a 46-8 that I had in stock, the worm & sector are matched. I couldn't feel any side movement on the sector wheel....

 

What you are describing is just what you should experience with properly fit parts in a Gemmer box. The worm is ground at a slightly larger radius than the arc that the sector shaft swings. They are designed to only come into contact with each other at dead center.


The clearance off center is there to allow the box to come back to center freely when coming out of a turn. The slack is taken up by the force from the tires pushing through the turn and that is transferred back through the draglink and pitman arm.

Hopefully that makes sense.

 

makes perfect sense, not having done a Gemmer box before it's new to me.
Have you considered seen or put needle roller bearings on the pitman shaft in Liew of bushes? I know Bronze copes with a large load, but was musing as I was looking at the box

 

Im not a fan of needle bearings on the sector shaft, as I dont think there is much to gain. They would likely be OK on a cross steer application, but there is too much load on a side steer box. I have torn apart side steer boxes that were "upgraded" with needle bearings on the sector, only to find grooves in the sector from each roller being thrust into it on snall contact points. The bronze bushings give much better support for the load.

This was an F100 box with the "upgrade"

 

Totally agree with Neal ..... needle bearings would indent into the "soft" sector shaft because they typically require a 60+Rc (0.040" deep) hardness surface to run on. Well fitted bronze bushes are perfect for this application.

 

Gemmer/Ford called out 30 Rc on sector shafts of that era

 

BTW Neal,
On your suggestion for the NLGI 00 type grease lubrication, I was able to find an Aussie supplier. I trust that this would be appropriate.
SEMI FLUID & STEERING BOX GREASE | Penrite Oil

 

True ..... a good quality Grade 5 high tensile bolt is ~30 Rc and I qualify them as soft.
Grade 5 vs Grade 8 vs Grade 9 Bolts: Complete Guide

 

we all would concur!

 

Ford tried needle bearings on the sector in 1936, and they went right back to bushings. Gotta tell you something.

 

We use Penrite semifluid in all the vintage/veteran steering boxes we sevice & rebuild at work

Fair call.

I was prompted to think about it as a local fella 'up grades' model A 7 tooth steering boxes with Needle Rollers, now I haven't had one of them apart either & don't know where he puts them. will keep that in mind when I look into it.

 

Nice,thats what I get for rushing..
I have an extra steering box I can steal the plate from...thanks for the information.

 

Thanks for taking the time & effort to do***ent & share your many years of experience ***ociated with the Gemmer steering gear.

 

I had a high school teacher that would begin cl*** with "a tidbit of worthless information". So here's my tidbit for the day.

Gemmer steering shafts were swedged at the upper end, so the taper and threads maintained wall thickness as the OD necks down.

See cross sections below.



The larger ID in the rest of the shaft gave clearance for the light/horn rod on 32-39 Fords.

They kept manufacturing shafts with this feature long after the light rod was abandoned. Even the 49-60 splined shafts were made this way.

There you go. Something you didn't need to know, but now you do.