Projects Nothing to see here - Just another boring Merc build

New bushings in the pedal ***embly and got them mounted. Need to find a replacement eyebolt for the return spring. You can see it laying on the frame behind the clutch pedal, but you can't see it's in 2 pieces. Little things, but progress.

 

Got the 1207SL front bearing as recommended by the ol' interwebs, and got it installed in my trans, as well as new gaskets, seals, and tail housing bushing. The difference is 11 ball bearings, as opposed to the 9 in the original & cheaper replacements. HOWEVER, what they failed to mention was to not use the snap ring that comes on the new bearing. Yes, it's a different O.D. That would have been good info before I cracked the retainer while trying to install it. This is after I struggled to replace the seal in the old one. Got the old snap ring on it now but had to order a new retainer (and seal). More waiting. I also tested the reverse lights switch - D.O.A. Found a replacement ('67 C10) and it tested good. I dug around the web looking for the correct pigtail - nada. Nobody makes the connector for that switch that I could find. Then I dug through my electrical stash and voila! I had a new one. I seem to not be able to make too many steps forward without at least one backwards.

 

I, obviously, obsess over dumb little things. Here's the latest: Bendtsens/Speed Gems doesn't have a shift fork boot to go with their bellhousing. I messaged and asked. They said that it's based on a 50+ year old casting, so maybe something from that time period. The web turned up nothing with the correct dimensions. I should leave it open to vent some hot air, but let's spend time screwing around with something meaningless, right? I'm using a newer standard GM boot that's too big. Plan is to cut the ridge off that holds it in place and make a plate to screw down over it - like a shift boot, sort of. Should work.

 

Like this:

 

that was quick!

 

Nice

 

man you are moving through that ch***is pretty quick. looks good

 

Nothing to report, but it's time to vent. I ordered 2 banjo bolts for a Jeep to match the front brake hoses I'm using, and got 2 of these:

I'm not even sure what these are. Completely different part numbers. They're shipping the correct parts (hopefully), and I have to send these back.
Then I ordered a new bearing retainer for my Saginaw 4 speed and got shipped an internal part for a 6L80 Automatic. Once again, the part numbers were not even close. They are shipping the correct parts (again, hopefully) and told me to toss the part shipped.
It can't be that hard to control your inventory and get the correct parts shipped, can it? Human error should be minimized by using the computer to keep track of all of this stuff. I used to think that older people got meaner and more cynical as they aged, but now I realize it's because everyone else is getting dumber.

 

I got the bearing retainer & the trans is together. Waiting on pilot bushing to arrive before I mate it to the engine/bellhousing.

Finally got the banjo bolts, but they were the wrong size. I'm done with buying from a Jeep parts source. Sent twice, both wrong. Got some from Brake Hoses Unlimited & they will work perfectly.

The hoses (Ford, I ***ume) that came with the "kit", came straight out of the caliper and had no "give" for about 4". That put too much of a bind on the hose, especially when turning. Banjos & Jeep hoses were the answer.

Here's the I bolt my Bro found for the clutch spring at Home Depot. I had to do a little grinding & chamfer the holes so the spring would seat, but it's good enough:


Just spent 2 hours trying to get this spring clip out of the power steering pump - no go.

Who's got a trick to make that happen? I have the plate compressed, so there's no pressure on the clip. I've bent a couple of my picks and can't force a small regular screwdriver behind it. Was hoping to put new O-rings/seals in the old pump but ordering a rebuild is starting to sound easier. Although $8 vs $200 makes me want to get it apart.

 

I don't know if it'll help but I'd try tapping on the end of the ring to rotate it a bit, might help loosen it up if it's frozen in place.

 

@Squablow I can rotate it for hours on end. I just can't get behind it enough to pry it out. I'm thinking of sticking an arc welding rod on it and turning the juice on. I could maybe pull it out enough to pry it off then.

 

OK. I tried using my old Lenco Panel Spotter to weld a washer onto the clip to no avail. Then, tried the old Lincoln buzz box.

It "almost" worked. I pulled on it, and the clip moved. It held until I got it to the vice and pulled again - broke right off. Tried again and couldn't replicate that "success." Then I spotted the little hole on the bottom.

Why didn't anybody mention this? I rotated the clip, so an end was near the hole, and pushed a small punch in.
Easily got a small screwdriver behind the clip & pulled it out. It looks pretty good inside, but the inner O-rings were toast. Ordered a seal/O-ring kit. Should work. Saved myself about $200. I'll probably have to have a custom high-pressure hose made for this. The threads are the same ('63 Buick & '00 Jeep), but the fittings are different. Return hose will be no problem. Small victories. I have cleaned & painted the reservoir and the brackets.
Now, how do I tell which is the high-pressure hose port on the steering box?

 

I answered my own question. Googled 2000 Jeep steering box & found a video of a guy replacing one. Easy to see which hose goes where.
I'm recovering from pneumonia & waiting for parts, but looking forward to, hopefully, getting the eng/trans in this thing soon.

 

Well, that ain't gonna work. Just your "normal" mid '60s Chevy pressure plate is too short. I don't think a long TO bearing will get me close enough either. Anybody know the correct combination of parts to get this 4 speed bolted up to my 401?

 

It looks like you could try a fork with more offset to it. Maybe work a longer TOB into the equation.

 

I talked to someone (not Russ) at Centerville, but he didn't want to give up much info. Sounded like he just wanted me to order their $1400 clutch set-up. He did say I should be using a 11", not the 10 1/2" I was trying to use. I found an old 11" out of my old stock car in my parts room and measured it. It's only about 1/4" deeper. That won't get me close to working either.

 

More wrong parts. Rockauto sent the power steering seal kit, but the front shaft seal is wrong in the package. Hoping they will just send a new front seal - they have the correct size listed separately. It's always something.
Here's another little thing accomplished, rear axle vent. Had to make a small bracket:

 

For those who didn't see my other thread: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/gm-manual-to-401-nailhead-clutch-questions.1349045/, here's the result of a lot of trial &error:

One Saginaw 4 speed mated to the 401 Nailhead via Bendtsens/Speed Gems bell. What a pain in the ***.
Parts used: Flywheel, pilot bushing & adapter from Centerville; Zoom 30005 10 1/2" clutch kit ('70 Camaro); long TO bearing ('65 Chevy truck); long fork ball; straight stamped steel clutch arm.
I'm in need of a starter spacer to hopefully use the stock '63 starter on this. It looks like this:

Otherwise, I'll have to spend some (more) big bucks on a new '64-up starter.
I've also got a Hurst Compe***ion Plus shifter with a cool long (bench seat/truck) handle coming, but I'll need to find all the mounting brackets & linkage to make it work.

 

No idea if this will pump, or even hold fluid, but I got it all back together. If it doesn't do what it's supposed to do, I can get a replacement. Hell, I don't even know if it will fit under the hood yet...


And here's today's debacle:

Don't be fooled. It doesn't fit worth a ****. Here's the reason nobody runs this combination of parts:

The left side manifold wants to live in the same place as the steering box, and the right side wants to sit on the upper A-arm. I'm not opposed to offsetting the engine, but with the X in the frame, it's gonna need to be closer to centered.

I could gain a bunch of room using the stock manual steering box, or even a power rack, but that's not what I want to do. Here's the steering box with the adapter:

Eliminating the adapter would gain me 3/8". I'm wanting 1"-1 1/4". I'm considering narrowing that section of the frame and sinking the box into it. Essentially, moving the box to the left. What's the closest I should run the manifold to the exhaust? I'm thinking 1/4". All of the headers I've found probably won't gain me much, unless they tuck in close. They'd have to be tighter than this:

I did find Nailhead/Skylark headers that go above the ports. They are expensive (north of $700) and make it look like changing plugs would be a nightmare. Tight tube headers are center dump, right where the steering box is now. Suggestions? Comments?

 

If you moved the engine forward an inch or so, would the box fit between the exhaust ports? Would require headers though.
I've built headers to clear similar obstacles

 

Hey Dave i have a couple of those pumps if you need one.

 

@RMR&C Yeah, I've considered that. I think I can go fwd as much as needed. Would just have to slide the radiator fwd as well, and there's room for that. I've never built headers. It doesn't sound like fun. I do like the simplicity of manifolds and using off the shelf parts is always a bonus. The tight tube headers are center dump, and that's where the box is also. The others I've seen, don't appear to be any closer to the block than the manifold.
@cshades Thanks for the offer. I put new seals/O-rings in this one. Just my first time attempting that. I'm not sure if I got it right, or not.