This could be debated on forever. There have been several options already laid out. It shouldn't take much to get the car movable under its own power so you can back it out of your driveway, turn it around and drive it back into the garage. While its out of the garage, you can park it at the end of your driveway and get a good look at how the car sits. In its current condition, its probably not safe to drive very much at all, personally, I probably would not drive it around the block. That steering system could get wonky pretty quickly, it needs another support towards the steering box. I wouldn't invest in that at this time. Back away from the keyboard and take a couple of weeks to look for: 1) Someone that is a qualified welder and is willing to work with you, will actually look at your project, and give you a real set of numbers. Get a real hourly rate and talk with previous customers, know he can actually do what he says he can do. A good shop should be able to prove their abilities with many happy customers for references. Looking at pictures won't provide a good estimate. I also doubt you will find a welder that will work at your place unless he does a lot of portable welding and has equipment on a truck. 2) Find out what is available around you, and how much it will cost to get it to your place. 3) Find out how much the added options you want will add to the cost, by someone that can actually do the work. 4) Find out who can perform the frame swap, be a hands on guide through the process, or is willing to give you a hand, and how much it will cost to do what ever you don't think you can (or don't want to) do. When you have real factual information, come back and we will help you sort it out.
Thanks he doesn't have the frame, he bought it like this (supposedly) and it was being kept at his friends house because his sold and he bought a new one in northern CA.
The horse is getting beaten for sure. I looked underneath and all of the body mounts are in the correct position. I think what the guy meant about mix of G-body floor and stock floor is the rear is raised almost like someone would do for a c-notch. Maybe that would be good as is for an actual c-notch on a stock frame but I'm not sure about the very back if that would mate with a stock frame or not. That's a good point. I found someone in LA who said he thinks it can be saved for $2k and he'd make some body mounts. He does work on kustom cars. I also listed on FB marketplace, maybe someone wants it for the $10,500 I listed it for (exactly what I paid for it)
He may have meant the hump in the back (like for clearing a c-notch) was made to fit/clear the g-body frame. I'm not sure what or how that would work with a stock frame... it might make it easier to clear a c-notched stock frame.
Ok keep in mind I have to beg people to help me with anything... even though I often help people so much with favors. Removing fenders seems doable. Removing a hood alone? I'm nervous about dropping it. What about removing an engine and trans? I'd need a cherry picker and I'm guessing it might be hard to do alone? I suppose I could jack the body up with a floor jack and use jackstands and roll the frame out but probably need a second person. Let me think about who/what/where I could find extra general manpower that I could pay to help me.
Thanks, yep I'm already looking into these options. A guy in LA who builds kustoms said he can work with that frame to fix the bad welds and reinforce it and make body mounts all for about $2k. He said to do a frame swap and add mustang II and do a c-notch and 4-link we're looking at $10k (this includes the needed parts). I'll lay out the options better once I talk to more people. I will try to get it out of the garage and on the driveway so I can see the car more. I'm not going to drive it on the street except to turn it around (maybe).
Hood on these cars can be lifted by one person. And an engine easily removed with a cherry picker by yourself.... especially if body is off
So I went back last night and looked again because the guy who is in LA and said he might be able to save this frame asked me to take photos and look at the contact points. It has 3 contact points between the rear wheels and front wheels. The one furthest back is bolted, the other two the body is just on the frame in those places and one of them it misses entirely. Rear of the rear wheels its on the frame there and bolted.
Alright....... so I'm not sure this is going to be a good option (maybe.. maybe not).... there's an autoskills hobby shop on Naval Base San Diego that I have access to. They have car stalls, car hoists, even welding equipment (though I haven't seen the welding equipment) and usually some staff that come to help you with your car projects (and make sure you're not doing anything crazy dangerous). It might be an option for swapping a body with extra help there... I wouldn't want to do any welding of any type there though as I need to practice at my own pace. I'm not sure what they charge for car stalls these days and I'd probably need 2 of them. I may call and get some of this worked into the various options and costs and circle back for advice.
I honestly didn't see the horrible z in the rear frame before. Yeah if you went stock frame you could cut most of that hump out.....even with a c notch
The welds on that part of the frame don't look as hideous at least.. I wonder if this guy inherited a frame and that's why it has that weird crossmember in it and he just didn't get to fixing the **** splice it has.. or who knows... I'm not sure what that big *** hump presents for problems going back to stock frame.. but it will cause headaches for putting the stock rear seat in.
At first I thought, that frame could be saved fairly easy by someone with fab skills. After seeing what they did to the rear, I don't think it's worth messing with. I'd find a stock frame and start over.
Yeah they didn't do anything to the rear suspension. That hump can go away. It's basically stock g body springs in rear. Honestly had I seen that early on a lot of my previous replies saying save that frame would not have happened. Now. Were you to be willing to go to the effort of stock framing it. I can likely get some good floor sections for that area you could have for the shipping. About a month ago I bought a 54 Chevy that was sort of recovered from a chop shop to get metal for a two door conversion. Only grabbed the remaining two door parts and left the rest. I'm sure if I go back and buy other parts the old guy has hell let me grab more of the 54 if he hears it'll save another 54
If you do stock frame it save the rear section of that g body frame. It can be used to four link it. Hold on I'll grab a pic
Very interesting! This further points to a frame swap requiring some metal fab I’m not experienced enough to do. For instance if I manage to find a stock frame and get a friend to help me lift and move the body onto it, I’d still have to deal with the rear end either way since the stock wouldn’t handle the 350 motor and 700r4 trans. Hmmm. I would buy a really good 220 volt welder and use my kitchen outlet with an extension cord if I could find someone to pay with experience willing to come to my place to help me weld the stock ch***is to the tail end of the g body frame.. then after I could sell the welder. I’d have to find someone that can do this work and would be up for this. Also I’d have to worry about how to dispose of the g frame… if it’s super dismembered nobody will probably take it and disposal fee in San Diego is probably going to be expensive.
ironically it would be easier for me to get a proper connection to a welder with 220v because my kitchen stove has the outlet I can use. To get a 30 amp 110 setup I’d have to do a fair amount of work in the attic (to do it properly) I’m still going to have to figure out how to get rid of the g frame remnants after and I’m sure that will cost me.
The Jalopy Journal
