1 of 5 Preface: I painted my 55 Chevys dashboard with Rustoleum rattle can Charcoal Gray enamel because I wanted to do it myself in my own garage, the color matched the existing upholstery perfectly, and because none of my adjacent friends had a spray rig. I did all the buffing by hand because I was paranoid that a buffer (in my clumsy hands) would cut through the paint and besides, windshield interference prevented it from reaching the top of the dash, anyway. Bibliography: Several good HAMB threads address block sanding. Also, do a search for The long board is your friend. Finally, there are two good color sanding articles in R&C, August 2001 and HRM, May 2002. Prep & Sanding: 1. Dis***emble the dashboard as much as possible. This makes it easier to do a good job and prevents damage to adjacent chrome/aluminum/stainless. Thoroughly tape off anything not removed. 2. Wet sand with slightly soapy water and the longest sanding board practical. I used a 9x3 board on the big flat areas, a 5x3 board on the smaller flat areas, and wrapped the sandpaper around old radiator hoses when sanding the concave areas. The goal is to get a FLAT surface first, then make it smooth. I started with #220, then #320 with a guide coat, then finished with #400. 3. The dash had no dents or rust, but two low areas did require a thin application of glaze.
2 of 5 Paint Application: 1. Enamel overspray gets on everything, so mask off whatever you dont want painted. Always use fresh 3M masking tape. Make the tape extra sticky by putting it in a microwave for ~10 sec. I had already gutted the rest of the interior, but covered the still-installed headliner with a lightweight plastic drop cloth. Recheck all your taping to ensure there are no gaps. 2. Wipe the surface down with thinner/degreaser. Vacuum, then take a coffee break while the dust settles, then go over everything with a tack rag. Wipe down everything with the tack rag again just prior to spraying. Dust is your enemy- eliminate it.
3 of 5 3. Warm the rattle can by placing it in warm water for a few minutes. This helps the paint flow better. 4. Follow the directions on the can. Youre in an enclosed space, so use a respirator or at least a paper mask to keep from getting a headache. Hold the can 12 from the surface and spray perpendicular to it. Thats tough to do near the windshield. 5. I sprayed 4 coats with ~5 minutes between them. Be sure to get good coverage on the edges. Rattle can paint doesnt build up much and the edges are where youll most likely cut through when color sanding. 6. Enamel takes forever to dry. To avoid raising dust and contaminating it, I immediately locked up the garage, washed up, and spent the evening in the house, playing with the kids.
4 of 5 Color Sanding: 1. Let the paint dry for a week before color sanding. If its cold, wait longer. 2. Cover edges with masking tape. 3. Start with #1000 and a squirt bottle filled with clean water & sanding block. Sand the big open areas, then peel tape back & GENTLY sand the contours. Sand in a linear motion ONLY until orange peel is smooth, then quit. Dry the area periodically to check progress- its hard to see shiny spots when wet. 4. After #1000, repeat with #1200, then #1500. 5. After wet sanding, wash with soapy water to remove residue, then rinse with clear water.
5 of 5 Buffing: 1. Start with 3M Perfect-It rubbing compound. I applied by hand it with a new small-size foam kitchen sponge, then wiped it down with a CLEAN cotton towel. Only proceed to the next finer compound when youre satisfied that all the tiny scratches are uniform in size and direction. 2. Then use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. To prevent cross-contamination, I applied it with a different sponge. I also used different towels to remove the glaze from those I used to remove the rubbing compound. 3. Apply a coat of car wax, then carefully re***emble all the pieces. 4. DRIVE IT!
very good - I rattle can alot of stuff - I just have never sanded and buffed it. Very informative thanks, Josh PBRASAP _ ARE YOU READY TO DO YOUR ROOOOOOOF LETS DO IT MAN
That was the most informative, step-by-step instructions for exactly something i need to do that I have ever read... it's just damn spooky! Thanks alot, i will try and take pictures of mine at each interval also, so you can point out where i screwed up!
good job, i was thinking of using the metaflake rattle can on my chevy dash, now that i saw this i think imma go with it
not that I know anything about rattle cans, but what made you decide not to use clear and then sand that? Just wondering Either way, it looks great, nice post I noticed another cool thing, a 3rd pedal
Regarding warming up the rattle can in warm water, please be careful with this folks. My buddies dad did that once and the top flew off and hit him just below the eye. Woulda put an eye out for sure. As it is, he has a nasty scar from the gouge it left him. And yes, he was using warm, not hot water. Contents under pressure do scary things when heated even a little.
Excellent tech! This works well, folks. Just the way I would have done it. You'd be surprised at the quality you can get from rattlecans if you take your time. Prep is the key. I have done the same on the exterior of cars with single stage, and the results are the same. If the color is a match, the repair is undetectable! Thanks for posting this!
I tried this a couple years back on my dash/doors... they had been painted with some omni primer and tried to put some duplicolor "medium blue pearl" over it. looked great and I put some PPG clear lacquer over it...looked fine until the next morning and it all hazed out on me including the silver I had on the dash insert!! but from 10 feet away it looks killer. I get lots of compliments on the color though I left it on since I didn't feel like having to redo it all but it is coming off in may for new paint (going to bare metal and starting over with all PPG products this time) my word of advice is make sure your paints are compatible!!! I ended up having tons of probs with that duplicolor pearl over the omni primer...."floats the paint and it seperates"
Gary, Excellent write up! Hopefully we'll see the '55 at the Showdown or maybe at Furry's show in DE this weekend. Ed
very cool, I also like to use rattlecan stuff - for me it has always been kinda like "practice" till I try to use a gun - another bit of advise, use two cans, that way when one gets hard to spray (has something to do with the propellant) you can switch to a fresh can and let the other "rest"
Thanks for the kudos, guys. Edmurder, Yes, I'll see you at the Showdown... only then it'll have bugs on the windshield and mud on the fenders!
Cory, a guide coat is a contrasting color lightly misted over the primer.-- ex., light gray primer dusted with black shows flaws/chips/lowspots as darker areas while you're sanding. Some guys(me) use dry guidecoats, which are basically carbon powder. Works the same as paint,but no waiting for it to dry. I have even used chalk line powder in a pinch and it worked fine. Old post.....but there's no expiration date on good tech
it says to shake for 3-4 minute"s do it shake the can that is clear nozzle(upside down spray) after and during spraying when can is 3/4 gone go to second can to avoid splatter good luck paperdog
Ok, so my dash is the factory color of a light blue. Would it be in my best interest to sand it with 200 grit sandpaper, then spray a light coat of primer, then after that dries spray a thin coat of black for my guide coat? Thanks -Cory
how to use a spray can is considered "tech" and gets 5 stars??? didn't anyone here build models when they were kids? never painted your bike? I find it very odd that there are people who don't know how to paint well with spray cans.
Thanks for the condemnation on my inability to do little things like using a spray can. Its not that I don't know how to, its that I want to do it right the first time, hence that is why I posted my question on this procedure. Can anyone else answer my question without any wisecracks?
Wow... this must be the Lazarus of HAMB threads! Cory, to answer your question, I'd recommend sanding the dash with a sanding block, then spray several coats of primer (at least two, three would be better), then a light guidecoat of black. After that, sand with a sanding block again. The guide coat will be sanded away on the high areas and remain in the low areas and your dash will look like a topographic map. To make the dash look flat, you need to flatten out the "hills" and raise the "valleys". Don't be afraid to ask questions; somebody else is probably wondering the same thing and is glad you asked. Good luck and hope this helps. -Gary
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