So I have a couple (fairly remedial?) questions for the early ford guys who have done a full-fender car. I'm working on a 28 A roadster pickup. The fenders, body parts, etc. are designed to be installed with frame welting, rubber blocks under the wood body blocks, and fender welting. My questions are: When mocking up and fitting everything during the build, do you use anything to simulate those items? If not, do you need to do anything to account for their thickness later? At what point in the build do you start using the final welting/blocks, etc. Final ***embly? Does anyone replace the wood body blocks, wood for the hood shelves, etc. with steel or something else? If you use the wood body blocks, do you stain/seal it before installation? I have some modifications to make to the body, so I bought new body blocks and rubbers to get everything supported before I start cutting and welding. I also need to fit up my fenders and everything involved with that, but everything is not jiving as it should so far. After fighting with just one fender to splash apron I understand why people say what they do about doing full-fendered cars. It's definitely a battle fighting with nearly 100-year-old sheetmetal.
I'm with the Chevy Pope. That's what I did when putting my sport coupe together. I had things together and apart many, many times.
Definitely need the wood blocks in an A during mockup, and any places you want frame webbing. But probably don’t need the fender welting. Many years ago we did the bodywork on my brother’s 29 coupe and didn’t use any fender welting during final ***embly. Make sure your frame rails are dead nuts flat on top. Many guys have a droop right near the driver’s side cowl, and they will never get the sheetmetal to fit correctly with that.
I would do as @The Chevy Pope says, and I'd look through a bunch of the build threads for those who have trod the same path. Amazing what little tips get buried in those. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/build-thread-index.651453/ Also, if any holes require a bit of work to be able to drop a bolt through, I'd err on a bit more than just right at the edge to account for paint layers.
I just test fit my fenders with the welting after banging everything back into shape. I find that the welting is very forgiving, taking up small gaps and hiding minor imperfections. I don't antisipate any problems after final paint and re-***embly. I had two different diameters of beading on the welting I could have used. In the picture the smaller was used. I can't help with the blocking as I made my own out of rubber as needed (channeled car).
Thanks for linking the build thread index, I always forget about it. A bit of a needle in a haystack but there are a lot of great threads to read there.
If possible during the mockup stage, roll it outside for a "stand back" look if you have a narrow shop, it will give you a much better perspective.
If it's logistically possible, get the ch***is to "body drop" condition. That means aprons and fenders on the frame along with the cab blocks. Door gaps are adjusted by variable tightening as long as the lock washer is crushed. Sometimes you may need shim the blocks a bit. Webbing s****s are good for that. You could probably get away with just the aprons but I'd use the fenders to locate em then get the fronts out of your way.
My garage is 38' wide. That should help with the side view, because my driveway is sloped so stance doesn't quite show as well. I'm not mocking up suspension just yet though, just the body.
I'm sorry, I'm not following your suggestion. What am I doing to prep it for "body drop" condition, and what's the end goal?
Just a "public service announcement" for those that can use the wisdom. Someone much older (and smarter) than myself p***ed that little nugget on to me.
A picture is worth ... Notice the body blocks waiting on the running boards? And, those are painted boards too. Why? At the end of it all the body/cab locates atop the splash aprons blocks and all. That's where you want to be finished or you'll go thru it later. Closed cab or open, same same. It's the only way sort out the belt lines and door gaps. Quick edit, once you set the splash aprons you can get the fenders and boards out of the way to sort the blocks easier.
This is how I did mine. I ***embled everything on the frame using all the welting. All holes and bolts were adjusted, re drilled so ***embly was done hand tight. And that’s how I sent it to paint
I would place the frame on jack stands positioned where the springs will be. Frame will flex some once suspension is loaded. So that'd get you even closer
I've done several Model A's and always mock them up with the body blocks in place, the frame welt doesn't make enough difference to worry about. I 100% agree with the comments about making sure your frame is straight before starting, they tend to sag at the rear motor mount, the mount is on the bellhousing and the weight of the transmission and the torque tube hang out behind them. Sit the frame on jack stands on a level floor and pull a string or small wire down the length of the frame, it should touch from the rear crossmember to the front crossmember. If it doesn't touch the frame is sagging and needs to be straightened. I attached a picture of my 30 Sport Coupe mocked up complete with the flathead and the finished car, I did end up raising the rear of the car after it was done due to the rear wishbones hitting the frame since the frame is stepped.
Thank you, that is very helpful. What I'm trying to do right now is make sure all the sheet metal fits and is in the right spot so I can weld any fasteners I need inside the frame before taking it all apart and boxing and starting on the ch***is work. It's still sitting on stock suspension currently, but there is no frame welting between the splash pans or fenders, body blocks, etc., and the frame. Glad to hear it's negligible. Do you use the wood body blocks for final ***embly too?
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