Technical 32 Juice Brake Troubleshooting

Hi all,
I posted about getting some help with a few things and got some advice to post lots of pics. Car is new to me and I’m new to early fords. I’ve got to stand on the brakes to stop and looking for direction. I did find a wire loose while under the car, not sure that has anything to with it (last pic)…. Any direction or ideas?

 

No , wire only looks to be for brake light. You might want to change the brake switch to a OEM
Harley Davidson.. cheap ones known to leak & blow out.. I use a micro switch ,
No fluid style .
I can not remember Those might be later then 40 style
Someone will chime in to verify.

There a procedure to adjusting
40 style brakes you need to adjust both shoes to the drum , each shoe has its owen ajustment, you might need to arch shoe to make correct contact to drum.
Shoes will show if not making close to 3/4 contact , ( cir***ference)
You also need to pre load brake peddle with 30-40 pound weight before adjustment . I hung weight on brake pedal from under neath while adjusting shoes.
Wants done correct you will not have to stand on the brake pedal

 

The mount and linkage to adapt the master cylinder looks to be well made. However, the linkage may not result in a proper pedal ratio. You will need to measure the lever arm lengths and calculate the resulting pedal ratio. It should be about 6 to 1. Less than that will make the brake pedal require too much force.

 

Yes, it was a Hetland car. That’s next when I get some time over the next couple days I’ll pull them. Thanks!

 

I worked at a big car collection. We had to go through all the cars with hydraulic brakes and replace all the wheel cylinders and the master cylinder after flushing out the lines. All because they had been sitting for 3 years or more. You would not believe how corroded the wheel cylinders would be.

 

Could look like this. The Voorhees 34 coupe sat for a couple years.

 

never heard of the ‘preload before adjustment’ - so does everyone do this ?

 

Yes I agree with 48 brakes, and I see a little leak on the rear so it would surely be good to pull the drums and put a kit in the cylinders. And I highly recommend only a kit, as many of the repro cylinders have a manufacturing flaw that makes it harder to get them to bleed correctly. Trust me.

 

@ time I when one of 32's built like 1950 had 40 brakes ,
I did search on maintenance I believed I found procedure over on Ford Barn or some where down line .
What I feel the weight does/know after adjusting each brake shoe in one drum & centering when wieght removed you will have a consistent shoe to drum gap Like brake adjustment on slack adjusters
(air brake)

 

If you do need new cylinders, I have had zero issue with raybestos cylinders available on rockauto.

 

*****

 

Sure looks like it, doesn't it....

 

What do you mean by that?

 

not finding a leak anywhere?

 

The flex line that goes from the master cylinder around the torque tube....it may be the angle of the photograph but is surely isn't a nice long radius....and if it has been sitting for awhile....

 

Just asking is vehicle new to you ?
If so are you use to 4 wheel drums as in feel of pedal pressure need to apply .
Or is this a issues that has occurred.
Have you pulled drums to see if there is a Hi spot on brake shoes , maybe shoes need arking ?
Usually a bad rubber line will not return fluid back to master after released. brakes will drag/ lock up.

 

Got it, the angle isn’t great, doesn’t look that bad in person, but you’re right, not a long radius.

 

Vehicle is new to me. I am used to drums, I’m 225lbs and stand on the brakes to halfway stop. Pulling drums later today to take a peek. I’ll report back with pics.

 

The pic of the left rear has liquid on the spring, and a stain down the backing plate.

 

I bet you have some frozen wheel cylinders.

 

ok, pulled left rear drum. Before I go to far, I wanted to see what you guys think.

 

Pic of shoes , as in do they show @ least close to 3/4 to full contact of radius when brakes Applied ,
Fresh shoe's new has sorta rough material , With some mile's shoes will show smoother like seated , lapped in pattern.
With care you can rap a ratchet strap around the shoes to test wheel cylinder
So you do not push cups out .

Example below of arcing
You can use like sharpie maker draw line on shoe to see pattern , drum will need to reinstalled

 

I would take all the wheel cylinders apart and check them. Maybe re hone them.

 

What’s going on here? As opposed to this… Is there even any adjuster cams in place?