Almost finished with the Merc when this happens- has anyone had success using the epoxy repair kit on flat laminated gl***? Appreciate any advice
I was watching a video in FB where they broke a windshield and then used some kind of liquid that went into the cracks and they disappeared. What have you got to loose?
That probably had a small scratch or chip that started the crack or maybe the edges were not properly polished. I've seen repairs on small chips and star cracks smaller than a quarter repaired. A suction cup with a vacuum pump ****s the air out and then its back filled with the glue. Some times it does not last. That crack will just keep growing. Time for a new piece.
The crack fill kits don't cost much, why not try one first. If it doesn't work you are not out much, but if it does work you saved a bunch.
There is probably a screw head that holds the garnish moulding in place that cause the crack, I have had that happen in the past, find the problem or you will have to do the repair again. HRP
Thanks all, unfortunately there are very few gl*** cutters left in the area and the one that did this one (and all the others) has already told me that it’s a **** shoot when cutting custom gl***. He’s guessing he didn’t get it heated right to relieve the stress after cutting it and he actually suggested seeing if one of the pro shops could “ glue” it. Crack is about 3 inches long so I was trying to see if anyone had success doing this before I got another one cut. Danny- this is new gl***, never had moldings in- was getting ready to put them in when I saw crack. Other than pushing car around there’s been no other stress on the window.
Heated to relieve the stress? I’ve never heard of or seen that done. It’s just plain flat gl***, right?
Laminated flat gl*** and they use a small propane torch to heat the edges after cutting to try and relieve any stress caused by the cutting.
Funny they cut gl*** for a living. Yet every one says it’s a gamble. I have cut a windshield down in the backyard with no experience. Just take time grind slow and keep cool.
I have crack stabilized a long crack like yours... I have a 'low viscosity' resin that UV cures.....so you don't want to do it outside in the sun.... there are, handheld, battery powered UV lamp to cure the resin with. you need a Dremel and a small carbide burr and drill through the cracked side of the gl*** to the laminate, starting where the crack ends. I usually do an application there....I do have the injection fixture but just usually make the application from the bottle and apply a 2"x 2" mylar over it to cure....working the resin with pressure on the sheet, moving it around slightly. then move up an inch to an inch and a half or so and another hole...repeat...up the crack to the top. I bought the basic repair kit as I had a fleet of vehicles when I was in business and it was more cost effective to do the chip repairs in house than pay a technician to take it to the gl*** shop.... I have had great success with the crack stabilization using this method....but it is difficult to talk a gl*** shop into doing it and I have no idea what it would run now cost wise...your results may vary.... the rule by the Motor Transport Officers, here, was if the crack could be covered by a dollar bill then it wasn't an infraction in a commercial vehicle https://trigl***inc.com/ good luck Edit: I also have a buddy in the water jet business that keeps flat, laminated, automotive gl*** in stock. I have found that a water jet cut gl*** to be a superior alternative to hand cut....again, just my experience...
Never heard that before. No offense but, the way I was taught to cut double laminated safety gl*** is you score one side tracing the line on the pattern, extending the score lines to the end of the gl*** then flip the gl*** over and score the other side. Next you carefully crack the gl*** along the score line with flat pliers on one side then the other (this is the tricky part). The torch is used to soften the plastic so it is easy to cut with a razor blade. Then you sand and polish the edges. Grandpa used gasoline and a match which was pretty damn cool when I was the ripe old age of 12. He did auto gl*** for 50 years in his shop.
I'm guessing he is clutching at straws to come up with an excuse....... I have worked with gl*** for many years. It is what I do for a living. I have cut a lot of gl***, including laminated. I have never heard of heating the edge of laminated gl*** after cutting it to prevent/releive stress. Sometimes the gl*** edges are heat treated prior to lamination to help with edge stress, but not after. Best practice is to run an edge arris to help prevent the problem you have experienced. The crack will be from a flaw in the cut edge of the gl*** or from a ****ty spot on the winshield flange that is causing a stress point. Get a new one cut, and give the edge of the gl*** a rough arris to clean it up and get rid of any flaws. Check the steel flange is all good before putting the new one in.
Many thanks for the info, did you pull the window out while doing this or do it in place? Really interested in the water jet cutting, never heard of that before.
Regarding cutting the gl*** I’ve watched the guy I’ve used ( and he’s one of maybe 2 or 3 in the area that are still doing it) cut gl*** for more than 10 years for me, this is the first failure I’ve had. Unless I can find someone doing the water jet cutting I’ll stick with the way he does it.
Pain in the gl***! The night before the Portland Roadster Show a few years back, where I was debuting the 41 Ford PU I built, I went to clean the door gl*** to find them both cracked! Top to bottom, side to side, cremated! After a few anti-sobering bevs I decided to raise the widows, so the tops were visible evidencing I had windows, and take my chances (judged events give points for gl*** so normally you show one side up and the other side down). To say I was pissed is a severe understatement. I won 1st place, replaced the gl*** with tempered, added the much needed and overlooked lower window stops and got on with it. Story done, sadly I don't think there is a great way to save that gl***. I think you get to make the same call I did and have your gl*** guy cut a new window.
I cut gl*** like @tomcat11 described & sanded on wet belt sander , fleet bus . On crack there cases dimpal with dimond , like stopping crack in steel .
our local gl*** shop uses those same words in their TV ad "started as a small chip" "cheaper to repair chip than a whole windscreen"
Damn wished I heard all this b4 I had to get a windscreen for my off topic econoline. $2000 landed in New Zealand
I performed the procedure with the gl*** in place.... I totally understand wanting to 'use what you have' until some point in time down the road... back story on this...we used to rally with the old Flxible Bus folks. One of them got a rock chip right at the outside edge of the windshield, right at the gasket....by the time he got to the destination, it started traveling as a crack. Flxible Bus windshields are next to unobtainium and he finally found a mobile chip repair and the guy came out and did what I described for a process......many years and rough roads later it stayed stabilized....I borrowed from what I observed ...and a side note on the water jet cutting, he spent a lot of time getting the start of the cut perfected...so I doubt that another operation would commit to cutting gl***....he has even cut round holes and windshields for chopped cars ...but again, I believe he is an exception.... stick with what has been successful for you in the past is my thought good luck
Many thanks for the info., really wanted to do a repair job so I didn’t have to cut window out but decided it’s the surest way of getting it fixed.
After you find out what caused the last window to crack, replacing the cracked gl*** is the best fix. If you can't find out why the first one cracked, the new one may not last very long.
For replacement gl***, check with Auto City Cl***ic in Minnesota. In my experience their prices are pretty reasonable, and a single door window shouldn't be too difficult to ship. https://www.autocitycl***ic.com/mercury-gl***/
I concur. I spoke with them last year at Back to the 50s, and the guy mentioned that they are cnc cutting gl***. That very well may be on a waterjet. When it is time to replace my flat gl*** (again), I'll be buying from them.
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