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Oh Man - More Visions The Sickness Continues

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by corncobcoupe, Jan 11, 2026.

  1. Sharpone
    Joined: Jul 25, 2022
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  2. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Update……
    My good friend / buddy across the street, Wes, a big help with his lift, replaced a couple of worn studs, removed and replaced p*** side ball joint, adjusted the drum brakes.

    Gas tank had old diaper piss in it, drained it and filled with some fresh 91 Octane ( non ethanol).

    Bought a Holley rebuild kit, next on the list to rebuild the 650 Holley since the gas tank had brown diaper piss in it. Might as well clean the carb up with new gaskets, float adjust, needle/ power valve etc.

    The power steering rebuild kit I bought wasn’t right so had to surf the web for a rebuilt unit.

    Found 1, Found ONE, ONE FRIGGIN 67 FEDERAL rebuilt power steering unit, just ordered and get this, they must be rarer then hens teeth as the core charge was $ 500.00 BUCKS !

    The rebuilt unit was only $145.00 but the freekin core charge was $500.00 !

    It’s suppose the come Monday.
    Install the new PS Pump with new High Pressure hose and regular return line.

    Will update progress.

    After getting it all updated / getting road ready, I’ll continue to DA the body with 400 grit, then come back with 800 grit wet sanding / prepping for re-spaying it Black.

    Starting to enjoy retirement realizing I don’t have to go back to work / no more Corporate stress.
    That……has taken some time to get used to.
     
  3. b-body-bob
    Joined: Apr 23, 2011
    Posts: 728

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    I bought a Federal kit at rock auto about a year ago. It's not much more than $5 worth of o-rings. The price you had to pay for a rebuilt unit is nuts.
     
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  4. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    The fact I could even find one, I’ll live with the $145.00 …. As it was the only one I could find / a bolt in vs tearing apart / redoing. FedEx tracker, be here Tuesday. Agreed the kit cost for what it is makes it harder, plus not getting the right one.

    It’s the $500.00 core charge that is beyond reasonable. That tells me they are not readily available / on the rare side and the mfg needs it back to keep rebuilding them.
     
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  5. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Anticipating/ waiting for the PS unit to put in/ with new hi- pressure PS hose.
    Carb kit next….
    I’ll clean the engine / bay up after getting everything sorted out.
    IMG_5483.jpeg IMG_5484.jpeg
     
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  6. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 6,334

    gene-koning
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    So, your putting in a new gas tank, and a new carb, have you considered changing out the steel fuel lines too? They have had the same gas ran through them as the tank had in it, and the same gas that has been in the carb. Those steel lines could have a coating of rust in them as well from the years of sitting, probably while the lines themselves were empty. If you have not changed the short pieces of fuel hose between all the steel line connections from the tank to the carb, invest in a couple feet of 5/16" hose designated for fuel injection, and get that done too. While its on my mind, get the fuel injection fuel line hose clamps as well, they don't dig into the rubber hose as they tighten up.
    That is the kind of stuff that has burnt me in the past, every time I thought I could get away without changing it all.

    Over the years, my experience with that era of Mopar automatic transmissions, they are pretty picky about the idle speed. They don't like the speed being to low, but they don't like the idle speed being too high either. They tend to be picky little devils, 100 rpm off either direction can cause a problem when idling in gear. Too low and they want to stall out as soon as the gas pedal is touched, before the accelerator starts working. Too high and the converter will slow them down and they will die while sitting in gear (sounds strange, but that has been my experience). The hotter the cam, the more the RPM effects the ability for it to idle.

    In a completely different matter, in that last post, first picture picture, the motor mount looks a bit funky to me. I've not seen the two pieces of steel that misaligned without the rubber being broken very often. Is the rubber torn between the top steel plate and the rubber below it (right behind the curve on the radiator hose)? Stick a bar in there and pry up to make sure that side of the motor won't lift too much. Won't take but a few seconds to determine if the rubber is OK or not.
     
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  7. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Rubber Fuel hoses replaced.
    Blew hi pressure through the steel lines.
    Tank looked ok.
    New fuel filters and keeping extras in the glove box if it starts acting up.

    I’ll recheck “funky”

    May get lucky or as with you, may have to tear it all back down and redo it.
    I’m working with my buddies lift so can’t tie up too long.

    Thanks for the recheck list !
     
  8. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Exhaust time….
    Rechecking all the front suspension, castle nuts, cotter pins, brakes etc.
    IMG_5518.jpeg IMG_5517.jpeg IMG_5519.jpeg
     
  9. corncobcoupe
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  10. corncobcoupe
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  11. corncobcoupe
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  12. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
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    Moriarity
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    Is this a motor mount made of unistrut? and why is it not welded here? or am I seeing it wrong?
    huudlum.jpeg
     
  13. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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  14. corncobcoupe
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    I don’t know. I haven’t gotten that far yet.
    Still recheck on everything. I will check that.
     
  15. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Ok- crude weld, on sides and top, needs welded on the bottom.
    IMG_5525.jpeg IMG_5526.jpeg IMG_5524.jpeg
     
  16. corncobcoupe
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  17. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Couldn’t do a rear exit with the gas tank and lines…. so had to do a side dump exit.
    It fits, it works., basic angle cut to aline with the running board angle. When it’s down on the ground you can’t see any muffler or pipe except the end of it flaring back angle.
    IMG_5531.jpeg
     
  18. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Hmmm new glitch.
    No power steering, so Armstrong steering for now.

    When I go to turn either left of right, as I’m turning the steering tightens up for 1 second, then pops through the steering column / steering wheel and keeps turning.

    Wonder if the box is binding up.
    Hmmm
     
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  19. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
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    If it gets tight when the wheels are straight then someone cranked the adjustment screw too tight
     
  20. Sharpone
    Joined: Jul 25, 2022
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    Sure looks like unistrut. Little details to clean up.
    Dan
     
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  21. Sharpone
    Joined: Jul 25, 2022
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    Hmmm new glitch.
    No power steering, so Armstrong steering for now.
    I’m beginning to think PS is not for you:rolleyes:
    Dan
     
  22. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Ground level profile pic…. you can hardly see the side dump exhaust just below the running board before the rear wheel.
    It fits the vision. Much quieter with the Smithy’s compared to open manifolds.
    IMG_5535.jpeg
     
  23. Sharpone
    Joined: Jul 25, 2022
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    Looking good
    Dan
     
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