Man I'm jealous! I've drooled over that issue of rod and custom many times! I'd make the rear brakes work as well as they could, and would even swap to discs if you had to, just to leave the front looking like that. I've driven my T a little over 11'000 miles on just rear brakes, but they work GOOD. keep tweaking little things and get out and drive that thing!
With all the loose/coming unfastened bits happening, I'd go over the whole car with wrenches and make sure for myself that the fasteners are fully tight.
thank you. I think I found it and I was wondering where the plunger belong to. Thank you Found the plunger^..thanks Good to know!! I feel like if the brakes worked,i wouldn't have to worry about messing with front brakes. I'm going to have to comb trough the whole car. I will look into it thanks. I'm going to need pro help here. This car was in Rod and Custom in 2014,I'm going to ***ume the parts are older than that. I'm trying to bleed the brakes and I'm pulling air from somewhere. I saw some paint wrinkles by the MC mounting bracket and by the driver wheel cyl.. When I took the wheel cyl,there was a bit of rust inside. The wheel cylinders cleaned real well but the dust boots were old and cracked. Note* when I bought the car,the brakes worked...at least the p*** side locked. Maybe I need to replace the entire system?? Maybe SS braided lines?? My car budget is getting thin so if the new MC costs too much,I'll just wait til next year. I'm fixing my COE,building a flatbed to take this little ****** to shows and a jeep FC with overheating issues.. Ideas and pointers welcome...
seeing the leak under the master, id take the master off and check the seals. they may be dry and/or cracked, a rebuild kit shouldn't be too much $$ then id check for any other leaks, and make sure the rear brake shoes/ springs are ***embled correctly. does it have a residual pressure valve? Usually they recommend a 10psi one for drum brake cars, it alleviates the need to pump up the brakes. hopefully that helps you with some things to look at.
Rebuild the wheel cylinders and master. Buy the kits and a brake hone. Pull the master off the bracket and I bet it's wet by the piston.
I wouldn't change a thing, just make everything work properly, that thing is so super cool just as it is!
Thanks for the suggestions guys...I'm working on it. I noticed the MC reservoir has a pinhole on top,never seen one..
it needs the vent to allow the bellow to flex with the fluid moving back and forth in the system. those Willwood masters are very reasonable priced. is the bore size marked on the side? I am curious what they used for that wheel cylinders.
Thank you..I ordered a new MC,wheel cylinders and 2 new rubber lines..will report back when I install those
Can't remember reading how much you were concerned with the braking; but if you were, this would be a good time to upgrade those Lockheed brakes to Bendix.
When are coming this way?? Any good links to read on the subject? I did a search to no avail.thanks It is. The seller,gave me two copies of that issue..pretty neat. I just realized that the builder built a ramp for his pick up just for this thing.(I ***ume)
Thanks for the help...it was the wheel cylinders.. Changed them out to a pair of new ones and it brakes well now. They were out of adjustment too.
Real nice ride congrads. The thread below was posted recently about front brakes from those with more experience on the topic than me. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/no-front-brakes.1349603/
There could be a very good reason that it only has rear brakes. It still has a lot of Model T there. I was deep into “stock Model T” research, I believe it was Kansas Ts or something like that but they have a series of cl***room, shop instructional videos concerning stock Ts. Anyway……. Front brakes? Not a good idea on stock Model Ts due to steering geometry, ch***is and axle construction. While vendors do sell disk brake kits for stock T axles, the presenter did not recommend them. The stock T front axle, ch***is and suspension is incredibly flexible and it was never designed for braking the car. Those front brake kits may work well on a flat surface in a straight line. With that said there are many risk factors in the real world, curves and uneven surfaces. On a stock T front brakes can cause…… Sudden loss of control (darting either across the lane or off the road) Ch***is flex causing binding and one wheel lockup Axle breakage Wheel collapse ( wood or wire spokes) Steering link breakage see No 1. One wheel lockup, loss of control… Loss of control and rollover… I know this car does not have stock T steering but it still has the wire wheels ch***is and suspension. If it was mine I would make sure the rear brake were the best they could be and drive accordingly.
So far I only had a scary situation where one person in front of me suddenly stopped to turn into a RH parking lot,but someone else was coming out and they both stopped in their tracks,,I was coming a bit fast and I had to brake hard,steered to the left,clear the car and go back to the right because more traffic coming behind us.. The rear tires dragged to one side then to the other..it was awesome..but scary... im not going to add brakes in the front.
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