Projects 1st AV8 build project

Model A suppliers use to sell these column spacers to drop the column like you need. We added an adaptor ring to take up the 1/4" of the '32 column. You definitely need it lower or your hands will hit the windshield if using a 17" wheel.

 

Great idea and thanks! If I don’t have to move the column to the left I will probably do the same as you.

 

The Reds-Headers from Victor showed up (very nice) and I couldn't get the drivers side header installed with the engine and F1 steering box in place. I temporarily removed the steering box and when bolting the header flanges to the block there was interference with the oil filter return line fitting beside the dipstick tube. I removed the fitting and copper line and now the header bolts up correctly. I can install a 1/8" pipe plug where the fitting was but then need to come up with a good way to return the oil from the filter to the pan. It doesn't look like a 1/8" elbow will work. It would have to be super compact. Back out with the engine (2-3 minute job these days) and maybe it will go back in with the header attached.

 

Run without the byp*** filter. I’ve been doing it for years on my truck, and plan to on the roadster. Just change the oil more often if you drive it a lot

 

Or dent the header until a fitting clears

 

I had that thought and could do that but will consider a few other options. Thanks!

 

That would also work. I may look at just moving the return to a better location on the oil pan. Thanks!

 

Looks great!

 

It helps when you have the best AV8 conversion parts. Thanks!

 

Cool project. Exhaust and the steering box is always a ****** on AV8's. Nice to see the support for the small businesses like Old Yankee, Millworks, Gear Drive etc...

 

THANKS! Those are all great American companies making high quality products for our hobby and we will always support them.

 

Re. Your gauges. After looking and scheming for gauges in our off topic 1970 MGB I finally went with Speedhut GPS speedometer for the dash gauges. They had a combination gauge putting fuel tank, warning lamp and turn signal lamps in the speedo. The nice thing about their gas gauge is it is universal. I didn’t know how many ohm range versions are made for tank senders (it’s a lot) and the setup and accuracy is great. The GPS speedometer is a very simple hookup, basically power, ground and headlamp power for the back light. I believe they can copy any face you would like, but their basic white numbers on black face was the look I was after. It matched closely to a triple mechanical gauge set of Auto Gauge. Very similar to Stewart Warner. I’m adding a photo which may get deleted, but it is ment to show the gauges only.

 

I removed the oil filter return fitting on the oil pan and now the drivers side header fits properly and so does the p***enger side header.


Now I need to get both the engine and F1 steering box installed in the frame to make sure everything fits like it should, weld a couple of flanges on the headers, and get them to the ceramic coater. I have an idea how I want to plumb the byp*** oil filter and will show that in a future post.

 

Same with mine. I hi-temped epoxied a strong Neo magnet to the drain plug to help collect gunk in the pan.

 

Yes I plan to use a magnetic drain plug to collect any ferrous metal in the oil. I do plan to run the byp*** filter but will have a ****pit control of a ball valve in the feed line to the filter. When starting a cold engine I will close the valve so no oil will go to the filter and the engine bearings will get full pressure lubrication. After warm-up I will open the valve to send oil to the filter. Since I have plugged the return to the pan from the filter I plan to return the oil to the breather tube where the fuel pump is mounted.

 

I installed the Goldplug magnetic drain plug in the oil pan and I had the oil filter out of the byp*** housing and installed the 1/8" Goldplug magnetic drain plug there as well. I thought I should check to make sure there was a flow restrictor in the inlet fitting to the canister and sure enough there was NOT.

I thought I should find the right fitting but then decided to just make one so I bored the 1/4" npt end of the br*** fitting to 11/32" and used the 1/8" npt tap so I could install a 1/8" br*** npt plug. I drilled the plug to 0.060" to provide the proper restriction. I still intend to install a ball valve in the oil filter feed line as stated previously.

 

I finally got around to seeing how the engine, headers, & steering box all worked together. I left the engine about 6" above the mounts and with the drivers side header mounted, slipped the steering box/column up from the bottom into position and then lowered the engine onto the mounts. Everything clears but I don't think I can put the steering box/column in and out with the engine on the mounts. No big deal.


P***enger side header goes on and off with the engine on the mounts.



Now I just need to get the header flanges welded on and then they can go to the ceramic coater.

 

3rd gen has a fitting with return line and bolt to put the return line on the timing cover

 

Gl*** is installed in the windshield frame and windshield is mounted with the new stanchions. These cast aluminum stanchions don't fit the same as the factory stamped pieces so some adjustments were required but they should work. Mounted the outside mirrors and test fit the F1 steering wheel which will work at the angle the windshield is set for which is about where I will run it. Next will be getting the column drop fabricated and mounted. Then the steering box will be welded to the frame flange & then the steering box, shaft, & column can be ***embled for final installation.

 

Got the column drop started and set at the correct drop for me. That locks the flange angle for the steering box so I will get that tacked and welded. Will probably pull the engine to make getting it tacked a little easier. Engine goes in and out in a couple of minutes after all the previous practice!

 

What is the Swagelok valve for?

 

The valve controls the feed line to the byp*** oil filter. When starting a cold engine the valve will be closed to let full oil flow go to the engine bearings. Once warmed up and driving down the road the valve can be opened up to let the filter do it's job. If operating at slow speed such as a parade the valve can be closed.
There are always discussions about these oil filters with some saying "use them" and others saying you don't need it, just change the oil every few hundred miles. I understand both arguments as many of these cars see limited use. In my case I do like the look of the filter mounted to the engine and with the valve can choose to send the oil through the filter or not. Thanks for asking!

 

I have heard that argument even on the model A banger, kind of like detergent or non-detergent oil argument.

 

Exactly. Go on any blog and start talking about motor oil and see what happens.

 

This is why I like to make my own motor oil. I have a secret recipe that involves 2 parts Pennzoil Synthetic, one part chainsaw oil, and one part ranch salad dressing.

YMMV!

 

Thank you for buying my Steering Box Flange Kit! Much appreciated, and happy to see your build progress. Happy hotrodding! -Ethan

 

Thanks Ethan! If I didn't mention it before (sorry) your F1 mounting flange kit is the best available. I had purchased another set of flanges but your design is superior and is a much better fit. Thanks to you for a GREAT product!
sknz
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1816001937/ford-hot-rod-f1-steering-box-flange