Technical ***April 2026 Banger Meet Thread - No Foolin***

I don’t trust 3D metal printing for high stress parts, call me paranoid (and cheap), but have had 3D printed parts break before. There is no material grain, and often are not 100% fused. This would be another 3D printed sand mold, and poured the old fashioned way. Has worked very well for previous projects, including the intake on my T

 

That looks great,
Theres a caster near me that does sand printing. I've machined some manifolds that were cast with this process and they were very nice. Almost too nice to look vintage.

 

Printing technology is actually very advanced; for example, the eight-piston brake calipers on the Bugatti Veyron are printed from ***anium powder and then mechanically machined.
I find that very impressive.
However, I have no experience with metal printing.
The Buddy who supplied my gearbox conversion kit also prints molds for the foundry, which is a great thing.
Best regards Harald

 

I made my own copy of the Bell intake many years ago. 3D printed sand molds, poured myself.

 

Sorry, I don't have a dual.

.

 

^^^^^^^^
Bummer…! Thanks for checkin!

Just heard from @4bangerbob, we are working on making this a reality

 

The prototype oil pump I tested on my last trip to Romo was a 3D metal print. Worked a treat. I’d put it back in again.

 

There are a lot of good applications for 3D metal printed parts. But parts that are prone to high stress, vibration, or impact are often best made the old fashioned way

 

Other processes I don't really trust - powdered metal, molded then melted into a solid m*** to save machining costs.
Powdered metal connecting rods (PMR) are high-strength, cost-effective automotive parts produced by compressing metal powder into a die and sintering it at high temperatures. Widely used in modern engines, they feature a "cracked" or fractured cap design for superior rod-to-cap alignment, offering high precision, lower weight, and high tensile strength.
Ruger makes a lot of gun parts from MIM. Ruger Precision Metals, LLC is a specialized company providing metal injection molding (MIM) services, producing high-strength, complex components from metal powder for various industries, including firearms. This powder metallurgy process involves sintering metal powders (such as 17-4 PH stainless steel) in high-temperature furnaces to create dense, precise parts, often reducing the need for traditional machining

 

Kevin, Around 35 ago back Dan Price made some new dual carb Wight manifolds reproductions. You might check if he has any castings around.

 

^^^^^^^^^^
Thanks Mike! Will keep Dan in mind if this one doesn’t pan out.

Does anyone know what size Winfields the Bell Auto manifolds were drilled for…?

 

The only one I know about is a single and its got at least a C size on it.

 

The dual one I have is for CC's. Before I found mine I talked to Dan Price about his, said he hadn't made any for years because nobody screws with Winfields anymore. And no mines not for sale.

 

Wowza! CC’s! Thems a bit larger than 97’s, on a manifold meant for a flathead

 

I always thought these intakes were for the improved Cragar that Bell Auto sold. Robert Stack had one on his Cragar with dual D's. Never seen a Winfield dual intake and the largest Winfield single I've seen anywhere is BB.

 

I believe you are correct, Winfield catalog shows single manifold for Model A in AA/B/BB, no dual. The ‘28 catalog does list dual M-C’s for dual port Fronty and RAJO powered T’s, but are to be used with independent elbows.

Makes sense that Bell Auto would have offered the dual manifold to support their Cragar heads. Do you know if the Bell/Cragar port openings are any bigger than the stock block ports?

 

A friends Cragar the intake ports are 1.625 and exhaust are 1.5

 

For many decades I've used a Wight style single carb manifold on my pickup with a winfield twin and been perfectly happy.

 

I removed the side cover of my banger to take a peek at the damage to the timing gear, and while I was turning the engine over by hand, I noticed that my engine seems to have quite a bit of fore-aft crank walk. is there a measurement I should check before I dig in or is there a fix? I'd like to slap a new timing gear in my car and drive it for a bit longer but am also not wanting to spend a lot of time and resources on an engine that needs a complete overhaul.

 

how much is quite a bit? 1/32" or 1/8"

 

just because my mind never rest's, I was wondering how big can a Ford Banger be taken in capacity?
I gather the crankcase limits the stroke that's achievable due to clearance on the rods? I was pondering stroking a B crank back to A journal dimensions & having a play. seems 220ci could be achievable with an overbore & stroke fairly easily....

 

So max stroke increase without welding the crank is 3/16. Pretty sure if B rod at standard stroke clears the block, the issue might be with the rod clearing the camshaft as an A rod is smaller than a B. Rod clearance in the block is easily fixed with a die grinder or mill if needed and the pan may well need dimples (remember B pans already have dimples along the pan rail). Might have to go with a rod with canted parting line...........

 

Interesting, I had forgotten about cam clearance.
What is considered the largest safe overbore? I understand sonic testing & core shift etc.
also is your preferred starting point an A block or a B?

 

I did a 4.03 B x 4.5 S on a Bblock for friend
Used **** A rods and minor clearance reliefs on the cam
At 11.5:1 had to oring the block and solid copper gasket
The Zephyr gears gave up multiple times
J

 

Photos and story when I get home
1/4 stroke 221 inch A

 

1/4 inch stroke 221 inch
model a block, Model B crankshaft with Rod journals ground down to model a rod size. Unfortunately, you cannot drill the crank for full pressure. I drive it hard, but the dippers just keeps spreading that oil around
Ron Kelly let me drive his sedan delivery that had a 5/16 stroke
In this set up, cam clearance is not a problem because of the small size of the model a rod
I always wanted to push it to a 4 inch boar and it be 226 inches
I’ve been running this engine 20 years and hill climbing with it.

 

Thankyou Gentleman, something around 221CI is something I'd love to persue, maybe splash a side-valve with a fair bit of comp & a rumpity cam in a T. but they are dreams at the moment. have lots of parts, time is the challenge. @brjnelson what cam are you running or is it a secret?

 

@johnneilson I ***ume it was an OHV? sounds like a serious engine!

 

Of course OHV
This was DP 4 port Cragar
J

 

LOOKING FOR '32 PLYMOUTH PB ENGINE PARTS
need oil pump,distributor,front casting,tappet cover​