Projects 4BANGER mild HotRod

That's one of the reasons to build a banger. no longer a slave to "Judging Standards"...
robj

 

That was well said.
Regards, Harald

 

Nice work, lookin good

 

Today was the day, the engine was started.
If you like, take a look at the video.

I'm very pleased, it runs smoothly, I'll fine-tune the carburetor later, it doesn't sound too loud for an open header. Regards, Harald

 

Sounds good!
You must be very pleased to reach this day! Congratulations!
[and the color looks great]
robj

 

nice...congratulations
I see you have the weeming bottle on it

 

A day to be marked with a gold star, as my father used to say. Happy for you, Harald. I don’t think there is anything that sounds like a Ford banger idling.

 

Excellent! Sounds great

 

Great Harald! Engine sounds and looks very good.

 

I corrected a few things today. The distributor was rotated 180 degrees.
To fix this, I had to lift the oil pump drive and rotate the inner shaft with the gear by the specified number of degrees so that the upper shaft would be in the correct position.
I messed that up when the engine wouldn't turn.
So, I removed the valve cover and the spring, lifted the drive, and rotated it so that the distributor and rotor were in the correct position.
Sounds easy enough, right?
Why did it only take me two hours? Because I worked around the exhaust manifold instead of removing it.
I'm good at tripping myself up.
Then I mounted the turn signal brackets and the fog light bracket, and screwed a few more screws into the radiator splash apron.
All the remaining tasks are done, and now I should be able to continue as normal.
Thanks for stopping by.
Cheers Harald

 

Good work - that car should be fun!

 

The horn bracket is now mounted at the water inlet.



The second floor panel is also installed, along with the insulation and trim for the steering column and pedals. The turn signal switch is mounted, and the two indicator lights have been replaced with two others with chrome rings – it looks better.

I'll start on the electrical system soon. I'm still looking for a permanent location for the fuse box and some relays.
So far, I've been thinking about the recess under the seat, the firewall on the p***enger side (as high as possible), or the quarter panel on the driver/p***enger side.
What are your experiences?
Regards Harald

 

This works well in my 29 Tudor. A big guy with big feet might need to put it somewhere else.

 

That box held the on off switch for my dad's Powermatic 66 table saw. He went to a different style switch and the old switch box went into inventory. It had a sort of art deco look and was about the right size, so I hinged the cover and gave it a job. I think it's maybe about 5 x 7 inches and 3 inches deep.

 

It definitely looks the part. Another reason I seldom toss stuff. Now remembering where that perfect part is can be a challenge..

 

Engine Sounds Excellent. Excellent craftsmanship on the build. I love this thing!
Dan

 

Thanks for the tip, that's exactly what I had in mind. I'll see what kind of box or case I can find.
The engine runs surprisingly quietly mechanically; the carburetor noise was louder in the foreground, like in the underground parking garage from Mad Max, where they were testing the Interceptor.
The exhaust manifold ended at the transmission, so it wasn't too loud. The fuel bottle wasn't ideal, as it didn't have a vent, and the carburetor was constantly getting too little fuel.
You mustn't forget to squeeze the bottle, and the choke kept closing on its own.
I'm switching to manual mode.
But yes, it was a great day, and of course, I also tested the transmission.
It works perfectly, is silent, and shifts ****ery smooth. I think I'm going to enjoy the coupe.
Regards, Harald

 

Little progress on the Model A at the moment.
I fitted a tow hitch to my '62 C10 and had it inspected and approved by a testing organization today, so that's done.


But my daily driver still needs attention; it needs new brakes, I have to replace the power steering line, and install new strut mounts.
However, I built a fuse box for the Model A out of a cookie tin, reinforced with aluminum plates, and installed a fuse box and various relays on different levels so that the cables can still get in and out.



It's slowly coming along. Regards, Harald

 

now that's what I call thinking outside the 'box'.

 

Or inside the box, depending on how you look at it? Hahahaha. I was kind of hoping you'd leave Santa Claus (Kris Kringle?) on there. Seriously, though, it looks good. I also admire the trailer hitch. That forged arm/ball arrangement reminds me of the old Volvo set ups.

 

I used this old sprinkler timer box in my 51 Merc.

 

That's all the boxes I had; I would have had to buy everything else.
Maybe I should have left the Santa Claus on;
I'm not always childish enough.
The box fits nicely under the tank between the steering column and the instrument cluster wiring.
I can use the original cable routing... I hope.
Volvo hitches are European standard, but the towing capacity has to be registered here.
That's difficult enough with US cars because the inspectors don't have the knowledge or do***entation for them. You always have to gather a lot of paperwork yourself and hope it's sufficient.
Regards, Harald

 

I've started installing the wiring harness. I'm using a simple, pre-made harness that I'm cutting to power my own fuse box and switches.
The cables are laid out for now to check the routing, and I've started wiring the fuse box.
I still need some special connectors to create more space at the fuse box, and the fuel pump relay also needs different connectors.



But progress is being made again.
I've also ordered a trailer hitch that I plan to install.
Regards, Harald

 

The cables to the front and rear are organized and covered with flexible braided protective tubing.

The fuse box is now installed,


and I've started connecting the light switch, indicator lights, and turn signal switch.




It's quite a lot of wiring, even though only the bare essentials are installed.
Best regards, Harald

 

Looks like a lot of wire. Looking good.
Dan

 

I run the headlights through relays; it's really proven itself, the light is noticeably brighter, and it certainly won't hurt, even if it's a bit more complicated with two relays.
The Weber carburetor needs a fuel pump, and therefore also a fuel pump relay, which shuts off the fuel pump if the engine stops in an accident.
Many of our vehicle inspectors pay attention to things like that.
This relay is supposed to prime the carburetor when the ignition is switched on; if I don't start the engine, it switches the fuel pump off again.
Hazard warning lights are also mandatory, and then you've got a whole lot of wiring.
Cheers, Harald

 

Surpising how quickly the number of wires adds up, isn't it?

 

Now for the latest electrical news: the lights, turn signals, and fog light are connected and working.
The fog light only works briefly, but it's very bright – I hadn't thought about the 6V bulb.

Everything in the engine compartment is also finished and working. The fuel lines, now with a larger diameter of 8 mm, have been adapted, bent, installed, and connected.



The fuel pump initially wouldn't run; it was stuck, but then it started up.
It's nice and quiet and sits in the frame rail.
The car ran well with it.
Work can now continue on the taillights.
Best regards Harald

 

Exactly where mine sits!

 

The taillights are installed and connected, the headlights, taillight and brake lights work, but the turn signals don't.
Oddly, the indicator light flashes even when I activate the hazard lights, but the turn signal doesn't flash.
The taillight switches off when I activate the turn signal and stays dark, but it doesn't flash.
I've checked all the ground connections, including the turn signal switch, for a good ground.

It has a load-independent flasher relay, which I suspect is the problem.
I've ordered a different one designed for standard bulbs and will test it.
If you have any other ideas, please let me know.
Best regards Harald