Hot Rods Running board covers/mats - two questions

I made a set of custom running boards for my 27 full-rendered T-Touring street rod. They are about 9" wide at the front and 14" at the back to fit my significantly widened rear fenders (parents unknown). Also have bought rubber mat to cover the running boards. I really would welcome advice from my fellow rodders as to:

1. What to use to adhere the rubber mat to my painted running boards? Contact cement? Weather strip adhesive or what?

2. I would like to have a number (perhaps 4 or 5) narrow polished stainless steel or chrome strips running down the length of the running board and one on the turned down vertical edge to help hold the mat on. Preferably I would like to hold these down with fasteners from below or perhaps even find some chrome molding strips like this along the rear fender of my long lost 1958 Super 88 Oldsmobile. What suggestions and examples have you share?

Thank you in advance for any ideas/***istance you are willing to share

appreciatively, Michael

 

Definitely strip the boards, the adhesion would be poor at best if you don’t. Search for online tutorials and study them before attempting this.

 

Given some thought to Rhino Liner

 

Thanks to both of you for sharing your inputs/suggestions. My son absolutely wants the look of the rubber mat so unfortunately the Rhino Liner, while certainly a good idea is a non starter but I appreciated the though. We still need a good source for the trim strips along the running board. appreciatively michae

 

The boards look similar to model A running boards, Snyders sells stainless steel edge trim as well as Zink coated. They may work for you but check the dimensions first.

as far as what contact glue to use just make sure it’s made for rubber. Many don’t say that that.

 

Make your strips first; 1/4 x 1/2 stainless. Carefully drill blind holes, maybe use an end mill to square the bottom after drilling, tap for 10-32, then follow with a bottom tap. Make some 10-32 studs and loc-***e in holes. Drill matching holes in the boards. Grind the paint off the boards. Cut your rubber to rough size. Use the good (flammable) kind. Coat the boards and rubber and let dry. Lay in place with a lot of 1/4 dowels or similar. Pull the rods starting in the middle, carefully laying the rubber down. When the rods are out, carefully roll the outer edge over the board. Trim excess rubber around the edge. Drill the rubber from the back with a brad point drill backed up by a wood block on top. Slide the stainless in place, put nuts and fender washers on the studs and carefully tighten being careful to not distort anything or over tighten and pull the studs.

Other than the strips, I've done several sets of running boards with glued rubber runner this way with no problem. Just remember there is no second chance with contact cement.

 

Maybe some stainless bed wood strips? You would have to use some thick rubber. like floor strain mats. I used ****on head allen bolts to hold mine down.

 

I agree with "make your strips". Stainless is a pleasure to work with. I spend more time polishing the finished product than the fabrication. I made my bumpers and a custom over the visor tiara molding from stainless strips for my Model A. Use the contact cement by gluing half of the rubber piece at a time. positioning it well first and folding over itself, then do the second half. It will then be where it belongs. Good luck with it.

 

I have been using 3M urethane windshield adhesive for about 20 years now on running board rubber and can highly recommend it. Use plywood strips and spring clamps to lightly clamp in place to cure. I do the edge first and after that cures I do the top surface. You can use the urethane over paint or powder coating.

For running board strips https://www.mcmillanrodandcustom.com/RunningBoard.html

 

I would sure like to have paint on the steel before gluing the rubber. Have you EVER pulled a vinyl top off a car without some rust underneath?

There’s got to be an adhesive that will stick to roughed up paint.

 

I have tried to use contact cement; yellow weather strip adhesive and 3m spray with poor results. the best to use for me was lexal in a clear caulk tube spread thin with a bondo spreader but beware put the rubber where you want it the first time there are no second chances

 

Those McMillan guys @enjenjo mentioned make some really nice shiny stuff, having seen their displays at shows.

 

Thank you very much for that useful pointer to Snyder's and for the contact cement advice
appreciatively, Michael

Rich - Your detailed suggestions are spot on - just what a good machinist would do. The advice of spacing the rubber mat with dowels is also excellent. I find that using a length of the right size tubing, e.g., stainless steel brake line makes for clean cuts through rubber and other soft materials like gasket material. Thanks for the suggestions. Michael

 

I did this on my truck and had them not roll it. I has a smooth finish.

 

Is this the stuff?
https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/b40066982/

 

Used contact cement when doing 36 Ford boards. It came from Drakes with the covers. Had two chances to get it right. I glued the outside edge and let it dry. Then the main board. Worked very well.

 

Weldwood is my go-to adhesive for everything. It's worked way better for me that the 3M 77.

 

I too used Weldwood flammable contact cement on my '36 boards. I then used repro '36 running board moldings and clips to make sure the bottom edge stayed secure.
Running Board Moldings Stainless Steel 1935-36 Ford Car | eBay