Hello All, I couldn't find my exact issue anywhere else, so here goes: I have a stock 1950 Ford custom with 8BA and 3spd w/ overdrive. car is stock and complete. The issue is when starting in first from a stop there is a shake/shudder but not all the time. Sometimes it clutches super smooth from a dead stop into first and beyond. But sometimes its pretty bad and sometimes its mild. More or less throttle doesn't really seem to make a diff, but releasing the clutch faster (almost too quick) shortens the shudder. I recently replaced worn motor mounts but that did not help the issue. Clutch also has an occasional whine/yip when starting in first as well. Other than that it drives and shifts very smooth. I do not have any evidence of oil leaks under the car when it is parked. Whether the OD is engaged or not doesn't matter either. Thank you in advance!
My '50 Ford had a bad shudder, all or almost all the time. I had bought a clutch from ... well ... they were selling made in China clutches. Anyway, I bought a clutch from Fort Wayne Clutch to replace that one. It's a pleasure to drive now.
Most likely, your disk has some oil on it{ soaked in to disk fibber. } A temp fix an way to be sure,with Brake Clean Spray,and something holding clutch pedal down=stick,brace,block,what ever works,,{ so clutch is as open as it can be} Spray up into disk at gap between disk an flywheel/turn fly wheel,spray more all around tell used up spray can. Let dry. After a a hour or more,test drive=if no vibs. Your good to go,tell more oil gets on disk... A new clutch disk is good,but only if you stop were the oil came from first..
First try adjusting the clutch. It’s very easy unless the car is lowered and then it’s more complicated. Do you have the Green Book? A sure sign you need adjustment is an obviously low pedal compared to the brake. Adjusting to specs brings the pedal back up. If you have no adjustment left, your clutch has reached the end of its service life. Another issue that can cause a shudder on a 50 Shoebox are worn rear spring hanger bushings. Sometimes they can be so worn that the hanger is wallowed out needing repair to the hanger as well as a new bushing and bolt. This will be the front hangers for the rear springs.
I do have the green book. The pedal is not lower than the break and feels good/strong. I will check the rear spring hanger bushings. I replaced the motor mounts and sway bar bushings cause they were cooked, so maybe the hangers are too. I do see a bit of trans fluid hanging on the trans but not enough to drip, so I wonder if there is fluid on the clutch or the FW is warped.. Could a bad FW or greasy clutch only have this problem intermittently? I've never pulled a transmission or done a clutch job, I typically do stuff like brakes, radiators, carb rebuild, timing etc. is pulling the trans and doing a clutch job (I would prob switch it all, clutch, pressure plate TO bearing etc) doable for medium skilled guy? I also do not have an engine hoist. Just jack stands and a floor jack. Thanks again I appreciate all the input
I've done clutches on "shoebox" Fords several times and it's not a difficult job. It is complicated by a couple of things. First, the rear of the engine is supported by the transmission, so before you remove the transmission, you have to have something to support the rear of the engine. I usually use a scissors jack about half way extended on some large blocks of wood with a length of 2X6 between the jack and the rear of the oil pan. The extended jack is needed because these cars have a one piece bellhousing with no inspection cover. This means the bellhousing has to be removed to get at the clutch. The reason for the extended jack is that rear of the engine has to be lowered to access the top bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine block. Because of the effort involved, I believe it is wise to do everything (pressure plate, disc, and refinish the flywheel) while you're in there. Surprisingly, I would suggest keeping your old throw out bearing if it is quiet and smooth. There have been reports of the currently available imported bearings failing prematurely. Pay special attention to it whichever way you chose to go. Good luck with your project.
Its been 60+ years since my 49, however its all straight forward.....I went through a lot of trans/clutch iterations in the day. I don't think you are going to alleviate the problem until you get it open and then it'll be obvious like broken/loose disc springs, flywheel/PP surfaces, etc. I would resolve any part questionable, as its not the funnest job to repeat. Mentioning re***embling, since you may not have done before, and job I hate the most. When you reinstall the pressure plate, you will need to have used a clutch alignment tool/input shaft inserted thru the disc centering w/the pilot bushing. Otherwise you'll never get the trans to go back in. If you don't have tool available, you can have somebody depress the clutch and free up the disc while you try working the trans to go in. The disc centering is generic and there a probably some Youtube vids describing how to center a disc. Have fun!
I have several Shoeboxes around here and most of the clutches have been in them for 30+ years. My Tudor shudders a little bit but I’m chucking it up to being old and persnickety like the old guy driving it……
Awesome input everyone, as always this message board does not disappoint. Weekends are when I have time to look and work on things. Ill peak at the rear spring bushings, and if they are good I'll start to get the parts for the clutch/FW etc. I appreciate the note on the TO bearing. I have also seen some comments on "import" clutches and/or FW being garbage. Would it be worth changing the rear main seal while I'm in there as well or only if there is evidence of wear/leaks? Thanks!
I am the one who reported that Fort Wayne was selling imported clutches (at least for "shoebox" Fords). See my original thread : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/fort-wayne-clutch.1242719/. I did not make any comment on the quality of their product, just reported on a conversation I had with one of their employees that alarmed me. For all I know, they may have found a source of quality parts; I just thought that folks out there should be aware of their change in business practice. That this has morphed into the report that they are selling inferior products was not my intention and is probably due to the widespread prejudice against imported auto parts.
I wasn't aware of a particular brand or anything just a common theme for parts recommendations. I wrote "FW" for Fly Wheel. Thanks for clarifying though. I am in San Diego so I usually get what I can from C&G.
Could your incessant problem be considered as “clutch chatter”——this is where the engine,trans ***embly”jiggles “front to rear. Some earlier Fords came with “anti chatter rods” that try to stabilize or limit the amount of forward/rearward motion that seems to be inherent in the design.I would try to limit the front to rear movement of the engine trans combination.FLATHEADS FOREVER!!!
Update. First, I have not replaced any of the clutch or transmission components and the problem is about the same (only happens sometimes and has not gotten worse or better). I looked at the rear leaf bushings and shocks and they all seem to have been replaced within the last 10+ or so years (not new, but not cooked). I do notice a bit (nickel to quarter size) of a fluid leak when parked (but I don't think its engine oil) since I use Pengrade. Where I park it is at a slight decline (nose lower). Could this be allowing or forcing transmission through the input shaft bearing and leaking onto the clutch surface? Just a thought? Also, two unrelated cooling questions: is it normal to dribble a bit of coolant from the overflow hose, and sitting in traffic it gets a touch warm when idling. I ***ume that is normal, but don't know. Thank you
"Anti-chatter rods" on a '50 Ford? I don't think so. I believe a little clarification is in order here. The reason early Fords (pre-'49) can experience clutch chatter is because of their torque-tube drive. The rear wheels transmit the driving force through the torque-tube to the transmission and hence to the engine. This can cause the engine to move forward during the initial movement of the car, causing the clutch chatter. Later Fords (including the O/P's '50) have rear leaf springs and a sliding u-joint at the front of the driveshaft. The driving force is transmitted through the leaf springs directly to the ch***is, so there is no effect on the engine at all. Anti-chatter rods are not even a potential solution here.
The regular 49-56 Ford light duty 3 speed transmissions did not come with a front oil seal on the units. If you have a full gearbox it could leak out a little bit when parked downhill. Check the drip to determine if the leaks are from the engine or the transmission. If it’s engine oil you will have to address the problem at the rear crankshaft seal. If it’s gear oil, you’d benefit from changing the front transmission bearing to a sealed type….that would involve removing the transmission and taking it apart to replace the bearing. Of course, fixing a rear engine leak is no picnic either. Clutch shake/shudder is possible due to various reasons. We have put a service tech article for this on our website, under Service Tips…..Clutch Chatter Troubleshooting.
Thanks for the reference to your service tech page that's a great resource. None of those repairs sound like a picnic
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