I’ve got my drag week gas/b project running recently. Runs, drives and shifts. And it does steer, but it’s a bit sketchy. I’m pretty confident in the alignment. It has about 6 degrees of caster and 1/16th of toe on each wheel. Camber is whatever the speedway axle has. im basically trying to figure out if this is something I can improve upon or if this is just straight axle life and I have to get used to it. manual steer with a 25:1 Saginaw 525 box. Speedway straight axle. Aftermarket column and a 15 inch wheel. Technically it turns fine, but the problem is you have to drive the thing when it’s going straight. There is no holding the wheel centered. It always wants some adjustment. And it feel loose in the middle, once the wheels start turning it’s fine, but there is a period before it “catches” for lack of a better word when initiating a turn. I’ve had manual steer cars before, but they had larger steering wheels. Maybe the smaller wheel seems like I’m working it way more. I’m considering switching to a 16:1 525 box but I don’t want to spend money for no reason. There is no room to switch to power steering or I would do that. I think short term I’m going to stall a steering stabilizer shock and see if that helps before I buy a new steering gear.
I guess that would be an easy enough thing to try with a couple wedge shims. I feel like I followed a tutorial that said 6 was like the factory setting for vehicles back in the day. More like 10 was for power steering or cars that only needed to go straight.
If it feels loose in the middle your steering box may not be centered. It is imperative that the box be in the exact middle of it's travel when going in a straight line. It gets increasingly loose in either direction as it moves from the center.
First thing I'd do is adjust the steering gear. When you do you need to adjust the end bearing play first then you can adjust the adjustment on the top cap. Check around and find an old timer that's done it before and ask for his help. There is a sweet spot when adjusting the rear bearing. In most I've done thru the many years after adjusting the end bearing I've either had to loosen the top adjustment or leave it alone... ...
Side steer, cowl steer, what kind of springs, how are they mounted, do you have a sway bar? Need more information to give advise.
you might be onto it there. Because it is not centered. It’s about a half turn off because my drag link from the pitman arm is a touch long. I had no idea it would have any effect other than altering my turning radius slightly. looks like that drag link might catch a date with the band saw real quick and try to shave a 1/4 inch off each side. And it’s front steer. Leaf springs, it’s the SPeedway HD straight axle kit. No sway bar. I didn’t even think of trying to put a sway bar in. I’m not opposed to that but I would like to try less fab intensive options first. oh and the steering gear is not used. Brand new unit. Or brand new Reman more likely. I think Speedway but it might have been from eBay.
You are definitely describing the off center steering gear. I had this problem once when I moved a box about two inches outboard from it's factory location. It caused the roller gear to be slightly off center after all bolted up. I thought it was a caster thing, but after messing with it, finely determined the cause. Was a head scratcher at the time. Good luck!
If it weren’t storming i would go out right now and hack that drag link down a little and test drive it. But I’ll def get it done by next weekend and report back. I do think I’ll probably buy a stabilizer shock regaurdless. Can’t hurt.
Save your money on a stabilizer shock, they don't really help unless you drive into a hole with one wheel. Find your problem first.
This one has enough power I think I might be able to do my first wheel stands. Which is both exciting and terrifying. I was wondering if the stabilizer might help coming back down.
Instead of cutting the drag link, can't you just move the pitman arm one spline or two. May have to file out the indexing tab if it has one.
My pitman arm has 4 keyways so it can be adjusted but only in 90 degree increments. The drag link is just a threaded tube for rod ends. No big deal to cut it, and cheap enough to replace if needed. I actually found a failing weld too, so Ill be plating the area and redoing my steering gear mount this weekend.
I have a Ford Econoline on my 57 and I run 7&1/2 degrees of caster. It drives straight as an arrow. I would recheck everything. Make sure the box is centered and any bushings are in good shape.
More kingpin angle is usually used for short wheelbase or high speed cars. I use 6 degrees in my '39 Chev coupe with 115" wheelbase, but I use 11 degrees in my 89" Austin g***er. I'd also put a bit more toe in into it at 1/8" total. Not sure how you measured 1/16" per side as it's a total measurement between front side of wheels compared to rear side? The other notes of centering the steering box are great, but also check the lash adjusting screw on the box to see how much play is in the steering gear.
If your rear tires are a large diameter the front will be less angle if the fron Tires are a smaller diameter the car may be difficult to steer straight
“1/16” toe each side” but no mention in or out. Toe out can cause the affect your feeling. That’s because each wheel is hunting independently of each other then suddenly when (example) it darts to the left is because the right wheel crossed over to the left. This will continue back and forth every time when tire outside the darting direction crossed over.
Another question. Is the kit a rear steer turned into a front steer or vice verse front steer turned into rear steer?
I put a new Borgeson 24:1 manual box in my '40 with 9 deg caster and changed steering wheels to help turning in a parking lot. I also tightened the adjustment after about 1K miles. I spent a lot of time centering the box and the wheels before adjusting the drag link.
On an electronic alignment table you set the desired tow in/out and then check each wheel individually to guarantee that the front wheels are perfectly/equally straight on the table. Also, the drag link should be disconnected, dead center on the steering box should be located and the drag link should be adjusted and reconnected after the alignment
How do you find true center on a steering box? And how accurate does it have to be? 1/8”, 1/16”, .001?
To find true center, drop the drag link off of it, turn the gear all the way one direction, then count each revolution turning the other direction until you hit the stop in the gear. Divide in half and there you go, so if it turns 2-1/2 turns lock to lock it's 1-1/4 turns off of lock to center. For me if it's with in 1/8 of a turn either direction off of center I'm good with that... ..
Disconnecting D-L or pitman arm when turning steering box when centered you will feel a neutral spot Like a backlash ,, Finding toe in or toe out , tire can be used , but most time you will be a 1/16 + or - .. best to use solid off rim or rotor. With weight apply to front . Doing @ home there are some cheap tools to set Or @ times I string line off rear tires take measurements from string to wheel's .. Keep notes , rake plays apart & relationship to ground . 4 -10 deg & plus , each set up is different. By op info I think tires , might even Look to find shop with lost art of tire trueing / shaving
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