The 9 inch rear end for my new roadster came with the tapered roller bearings on the axle with the outside seal. Of the many 100's of 9 inch rears I've used on my customer ch***is both from Currie & John's all had the sealed bearing with the inside seal. Why is this new bearing a better deal than the old reliable sealed bearings with inside seals. One side is already leaking and it's only been on and off the trailer to the upholstery shop. Since John's closed this rear housing and axles came from P&J's.
The tapered bearings handle side loads better. They came about with the transition from F-100 to F-150. Ford pushed the GVWR over 6000 lbs so they didn't need catalytic converters per EPA rules. The 9" got a bearing upgrade to handle the extra load.
Relic Stew, when Currie built the 9" for my Woodie and because it was a big car they suggested I go with the tapered bearings and they were well worth it. I foolishly installed an 8" when I built the car and the bearings lasted less than 20,000 miles.
"Better" depends on the desired outcome. I like reliability and familiarity so I go with the old sealed bearing style.
It should also be noted that the SET20 tapered bearing requires a specific axle shaft to work properly. The external seal area needs to be polished vs the sealed bearing axle that is usually rough machined.
Was surprised to hear Johns closing so looked it up, yes they did but typical f#@k'dup AI has it all wrong!...............
Funny you mention these new bearings and seals. I just had this same experience with a new P&J rearend setup. When trying to tighten the disc brake caliper bracket to the rearend, it wouldn't pull flush against the bearing housing. When I questioned P&J, Jerry Slover said that is normal. He said there should be about 10 thousands (.010)clearance between the bracket & bearing housing. The tin seal retainer is holding it out from the housing. I don't like it.
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