Projects The Flathead Flathead

Hopefully you welded the bungs at the right angle - they need to be at 10 or 2 o'clock (sensor is pointing up from the bung) or the O2 sensors get whacked (and they are expensive). Also, there can be zero air leaks ahead of the bungs - so no "slip joints" before them.

 

Thanks @Bored&Stroked they are welded at 10 o'clock on the right side and 2 o’clock on the left. I don't have any slip joints in my exhaust. They are on the inside of the exhaust just behind the header. I was hoping they wouldn't be visible, but they are. Ah, oh well. Better to have them than need them later. The only non welded connection is at the header, and it's a welded on V clamp. Everything else is tig welded. I didn't leak test the exhaust. I could, but I'm pretty sure it's tight.

So I should be good with the sensors where they are.

 

A month or so ago, I chopped my top frame to better fit the windshield chop. I don’t think I’m happy with it, and thinking about giving it more chop to make it look better. Here are pictures of the current chop, and what I’m considering. Any feedback would be appreciated. More about the height and not the taped lines

 

Then with a little magic, I can visualize the shape of the original top, and options for the new top

 

Different league but it does have me liking door #3...pretty darn cool Jeff...it's your call in the end, there would be more blind spot with option 3 but it gives you more cover too...

 

To help decide top layout: settle seating position, eyes to windshield, hands to steering wheel & head to top. Make it comfortable; or what the hell, look cool & bad…..

 

I like it, as long as you have enough head room.
With a steep angle down to the windshield the wind buffeting will be greater.

 

I like the very last one ,except I would make the header over the windshield bring the top down and over like a visor on a closed car.

will let you have a taller windshield while driving ******* and have the better top profile with it up

maybe I’ll scribble a version of that

 

I do plan on having a strip of top material under the header that snaps to the windshield (like original) to prevent wind and rain from getting under the top and over the windshield.

 

This was posted in the "A" thread.
Looks closer to your second pic, but with the front bow pushed farther forward, leaving a lower, more balanced (front to back) peak.
Bottom bow might be lower/slightly shortened, too.
Looks pretty good, to my eye, if it gives you enough headroom.

 

That’s the picture I was using as a guide. I love it, but the lower middle bow was just a bit too tight on headroom so I moved it back, which moved it up. Now I have about a fist distance between my head and both bows (same as my OT race car)
Thanks, @Never2low !

 

@Never2low That looks right. Thanks for posting a pic.

 

That's what I was afraid of.
Couldn't remember how you had your seat setup, and figured it might not leave enough clearance for your noggin, without looking like the dinosaur at the beginning of the Flintsones.

 

Hahahhaaaaaa! Nice image in my head. I’m currently using a minivan middle seat that’s lower than the stock seat but not too low. Still trying to figure out what to do with the interior. Just trying to shake out the mechanicals at this point.
Thanks @Never2low

 

Working under the car is always something I dread. So glad I made these wood stands. It’s high enough that I can use a creeper under the car. I need to make two more of these.

 

I’ve just been pulling the wood floor boards and working from the top. Need to keep an eye out for a car dealership display ramp for when it’s all together lol

 

So after my first drive a while back, I decided that I need to cap the open pipes and divert through mufflers. I bought a pair of Porters (suggested by a friend) and some pipe and clamps and got to work. I’ve got a few more welds to finish and then back on the road. I hope just in time for a car show this Saturday that I signed up for

 

Should be slick! Don’t forget a little never seize on that collector cap

noticed you clean off the top of the bolt head, nice detail

 

Thanks!

ooh, great idea! Done. Yeah, I’ll probably replace those with some wing bolts, but for now I wanted these to look better than just a normal bolt head.
Exhaust is back on. Much quieter now. Time for a drive!

 

I dig it!

 

Thanks @Tim

The caps are 2.5” Tri-Clamp caps. I have a bunch of tri clamp or clover fittings for another hobby of mine, and when I needed caps, I thought of these. It’s a SS cap with FKM rubber gasket (good for 400f). They also make silicone gaskets and even teflon if higher temps.

 

Perfect fit!

 

Looking great!

 

Thanks, guys.

I had planned to go for a drive yesterday, but it clouded up and looked like rain, so I delayed that plan until today. We did get some rain last night, and it is very welcome here, but I do want to shake some bugs out before Saturday...

 

Took a nice drive today. Getting ready for the show tomorrow. Stopped by David’s shop for a visit

 

Decided to swap the round pedal with something more interesting. I silver soldered a br*** nut onto the back of a sterling silver fish s****. Not sure if I want it this way or upside down from this, but I think it’s a nice variation of the s**** pedal.

 

This is the other way.

 

The second looks better to my eye. Cool pedal

 

Awesome updates! How do the pipes sound?

 

waaay better. It’s not as nasty, but I think I could drive it for a day without getting sick. I’ll try to get a sound byte tomorrow since I’ll be out in the car