Picked up a 51 last week and it needs a little work to get it on the road. Someone had started to switch it over to 12 volt and put mechanical gauges under the dash, where would the best place for the temperature gauge sending bulb be ? Also included with the car is an adapter to put a Chevy transmission behind the flathead but I'm not seeing how it's attached to the clutch pedal.
Yes, it's a 51 with a 50 front end, it also has 48 tail lights. And I know there's 2 electric sending units, one on each head which will go to the trash, I need to know where to put the mechanical gauge sender.
Using the original gauges after converting to 12V is just a matter of using the Ford voltage reducer that they used up into the early 70's. Readily available. The two temperature senders used on flatheads- one was a "normal" sender, and the other a trip switch. The normal sender drove the gauge, and the trip would drive the gauge to hot if applicable. For the original gauge to read correctly, a King Seeley sender is needed. The Explorer rear, @ 59", is too wide to use unless it is narrowed, which involves using another short side axle. A semi- direct bolt in is a 70s Maverick V8 8", which is 56-1/2" wide. The spring perches need to be moved 3/4" on each side, but even the E-brake cables fit.
Hey thanks for the info, my dash gauges don't work and I'm going with mechanical stuff under the dash, Sun gauges. I'm familiar with the short axle trick on the explorer rears, I did that for my 62 Falcon, it was easy. Around here a maverick rear would be like trying to buy a halibrand rear, they just don't exist anymore.
OK….. The transmission adapter is based off F1 stuff which is closer to pre 49 Ford clutch/Mercury clutch, the twist clutch that goes back to the Model A. This is not compatible with Shoebox Ford Clutch system. You might could use Mercury stuff? It’s really for F1s and Pre49 cars. The stock Shoebox 8BA bell is compatible with a good many transmissions. In interchange books I’ve heard the stock transmission pattern called 49-64 Ford universal…… There’s simpler adapter available that adapter at the stock 8BA bell. In short….. That part does not fit your car. Making it work would be like herding 800 cats.
OK… Mechanical gauges….. You can 2 mechanical gauges, one for each head. It should go where the King Seely senders go. It is wise to run two gauges as you have two pumps and it is possible for one side to get very hot and it not show on the other side until one side is really hot. This is why the factory system had two senders, one was a sender, the other was a hot switch. I would not throw the King Seely senders away. They can be repaired. Most of the time they do work. Tested and working senders/switches are worth something. NOS stuff is close to $100 each, maybe more now. Really the King Seely stuff is the best stuff on the car. Ford used them until the 1990s.
Does it run? Does it roll? Does it stop? Does it light? Personally, I think the fuel filter system is a hack. I don’t know what’s going on there but….? Usually when you see a robust filter system that’s a clue that the gas tank and fuel lines need to be replaced. A new tank, new lines and new good working stock fuel pump, is a great idea. It’s simple reliable and clean. It’s a pain in the *** to replace that stuff, but for most, it needs to be done
OK…, I guess I’m hot in your Shoebox today?….. Evaluate the car. Whats the damage? The value on these is soft right now. I paid a hair over 10k for my coupe 6 years ago. I’ve probably put over 3k in it since. If I had to sell????? 65-7500, maybe. With the value soft on these, if you have the cash you can choose wisely. I’m not saying find a better car because honestly I know nothing about your car. I’m saying the market is soft on these, soft enough that if you look you may can find another 50-51 (don’t fool with a ‘49) and use both to build one. Look for one that has what yours needs and vise-versa…. It’s a thought. They are really simple cars that are easy to service and repair in stock form. For instance….. You can hone and overhaul the master cylinder while it’s still on the car.
If you can find one, a 9" out of a '57 to '59 car is a bolt in. The leaf spring spacing is within 1/2" to the 9" spring perch spacing. There is that much play in the leaf springs. The '49 to '51 rear brake ***emblies are a bolt on to the 9".
Yeah, the Maverick rears are getting a little harder to find. I actually have two of them in my stash. I am willing to give you one, but you have to come get it. Needs work but it is straight. PM me if interested.
I don't know what you mean by the fuel system being a hack, I haven't done anything to it. Tank , lines, pump, all new when I bought the car. The wiring is a mess and I'm in the middle of replacing it all. I did find that adapter that someone mentioned, but that still doesn't hook up the clutch pedal to the fork. The clutch linkage pivots on a boss cast onto the 3 spd transmission.
Ok, in the engine is a one prong sender and a two prong sender, let's say that I keep them and use a voltage reducer ( 2 came with the car) I'm still left with dash gauges that are frozen in time, can these gauges still be found ?
Yes it runs and rolls, I'm working on the rest. The fuel tank, lines, pump, filter and carburetors are all new. I don't know what you see wrong.
I bought the car for 4k from the widow of the owner, it runs and drives and stops if I'm real frantic with the brake pedal. I didn't buy it to flip it, I'm 68 years old and I plan on keeping it. Selling it is somebody else's problem when I'm gone.
The shoebox uses the stamped steel bellhousing like this one With the appropriate adapter plate. Edited, I don't think the first one I posted is correct but the damn spendy Offenhauser one from Speedway is correct.
I've seen that adapter somewhere on the web, I think I can cast it and machine it for a lot less money.
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