Sitting round having my morning coffee and having a bit of a day dream I guess. Has anyone run a hurst style front motor mount on a SBC and vega steering box? Seems like it might be a simpler way to manage the space in an A frame? What years SBC did the mounting holes appear in the SBC for the hurst? I understand 265 and up to 283 but were there later engines it could be used on?
If you use Pete & Jacks Instructions box will interfere with . Unless you're wanting to look nostalgic make ears off 4 bolts but 2 on each side so 2 ears , use biscuit off like a flathead or the hurst mount over to top center of frame
To answer your question about the 4 tapped holes, my 1970 400 small block and my 350 both have these. One of the four can be used to keep the fuel pump push rod in place when replacing the pump by using a long bolt.
Here is my old roadster with Vega box and Hurst style mount that I made with less drop to get engine up higher. Model A body on 32 frame with 31” engine room length, with flat firewall.
I don't know where he found them but my 32 Ford pickup uses Hurst engine front style biscuit mounts and they are bent forward so they clear the Vega boc and allow the use of a stock fuel pump. He also has rear side mounts that bolt on the bell housing?
He may have fabricated his own front mounts and he either used a Tri-Chevy bell housing or maybe a later pickup bell, some used the side mounts too.
What a lot of people don't realize is most times you can turn the mount around backwards and run it to get the frame mounts a few inches further back. What I did on my 53 to have a more desirable hose fitment with my 57 Chevy radiator hoses
I'll check the box of receipts that came with the pickup for the motor mounts. Went thru the box and found a picture of the mount but no information where it came from. I might be wrong but I think this mount with the legs pointing forward was discussed on here in the past. I think that a manufacturer was mentioned?
Thanks all, especially confirming the bolt holes being present over so many years. @The Chevy Pope good to know that too.
Here's my 2 cents. Set up the steering, and then fit in the 350 crate motor. A joggle on the mount cured everything. Raised the entire engine, belhousing, and trans. Of course then I needed a tunnel on the floor. All worked out.
If using the Hurst style mount with center removed make sure that you safety wire the bolts. They will back out and destroy the threads in the block.
As for the Hurst front mount, after all these years I am amazed how many mention not being able to run stock fuel pump. Just not true. The original mount kit included two pieces of flat bar with holes spaced to the mounting bolts to be used as spacers between the mount and the block to provide clearance for the pump. Making your own version of a Hurst mount allows you to make it fit to most anything. The last one I made for a pinched frame I cut out of 3/8" plate on a bandsaw.
Yup, here’s a Hurst mount being used for mock up purposes only. In the pic is one of two Hurst provided spacers held at the upper mount hole for safe keeping’s.
@Jmountainjr I think in p*** pre mid 70's it was because of fuel pump in & out Locations . or most just did not have tools fab skill To do a kick out to solve a issue
I think the pads for the front mount continued on the castings for many years (maybe til 1994) and can be drilled/tapped if you want to use them. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1955...t-Through-Cushion-Motor-Mount-Kit,411781.html
The never came in a vehicle that had front mounts like the 55/57 V8 Chevys or 55/59 V8 Chevy pickups.
One and maybe two years of small blocks came without the drilled and tapped holes and I am thinking early 70's. I just rembember reading and hearing about the Tri 5 guys having a fit because they couldn't just pull one of those out of a car in a wrecking yard and stick it straight in a tri 5. I also remember that allegedly some GM bean counter decided that they could save a few cents per engine if they didn't drill and tap the holes.
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