I’m 6’ tall about 180lbs. Seat riser is stock. I have a jeep bench seat in it about stock size that i stretched to fit.
Yeah, he deleted a long-time member's post on a early/mid 60's Vette drag car/pro-mod because it doesn't fit the forum... He's definitely not gonna let a 2002 Vette slide... 3blap.
You're progressing. If you find your mig welder blows through those gaps, place a copper backing plate behind the gap. It'll enable you to connect the sides & penetrate the existing metal without blowing holes in it. I have some s**** copper pipe you're welcome to. One of the benefits of a wife's kitchen renovation.
Im working or attempting to do the roof joint. I have about a 1/4 inch low spot all around. I dont see a way to easily correct it. I was thinking maybe i fill the low spot with bondo? Or is that too much? maybe I can put an extra piece of metal all around and blend it and then do bondo? Or can this be hammered and dollied out to be like maybe 1/8 at worst? Advice would be greatly appreciated
Hammer it up before you weld the strip to it. Hammering on dolly will stretch the metal. Push it up as you are doing it. You should remove the rust and crust from the area before you think of welding. And those ******s in your pic are nowhere near hot enough to weld the piece together. Zero gap is the best way to do bodywork. If anyone tells you otherwise, you just found an amateur.
Strongly second this advice^^^^^ your going to have shrinkage when welding so trying to fill that gap with weld is going to create havoc, zero gap to just a bit proud is what I aim for. As stated the welding in your picture is not hot enough, needs to be hot enough to melt but not blow through, takes a lot of practice to get it right and it changes as you go, as your fitting and tacking it takes a certain “heat “ but as you add tacks and the metal becomes more cohesive you’ll see it needs more heat to achieve a good weld, to the point that you can sometimes even run short beads, don’t get greedy, controlling the heat in the panel is priority, move around and be sure the panel never get hot to the point you can’t comfortably put your bare hand on it.
Yeah those tacks in pic are kinda trash. Its better in other sections i was gonna redo that anyways but was mainly showing the low spot.
Another method: instead of a one inch filler strip down in a valley, cut the valley out and use a six inch filler strip. Less hammering to shape it, and the less wiggling around that the narrow strip would do during welding. Cut the new strip, bend to the roof crown shape, lay it on top of what you have now, then mark the roof with a sharp scribe. Cut to that exact scribe line with sharp shears. Maybe perfect the fit with a little grinding or filing if needed. You could do it in halves with a seam in the center if you like.
And like Alchemy said... that parent metal ('36 truck) is not clean enough. But, since you're still using a 4.5" angle grinder, be careful not to remove too much metal when you clean it. You might be successful using a knotted wire brush, but gotta use safety equipment with those. Eye & Ear protection at a minimum. 3blap.
Oh I got the die grinder! Forgot to say it's quite the difference; However, it is much slower. So, what I've been doing is I start with the angle grinder then once its close I finish it off with the die grinder. Works pretty well. I got this one from Harbor freight
Just for the record, not all die grinders are the same. I've had some Ingersoll's that spun 4x as fast as a Husky. The good news is they all have a place in the toolbox... because there are times when the slow is good for finesse work, and there are times when a super rowdy one is what's needed to get the job done. 3blap.
Still hammering away and welding the roof… i think I’m getting it better. These are both sides Then a full pic of it Leaving the middle for last
My '35 had Mazda pickup seats I'm 6'1 and shrinking 190 I fit nice but it wasn't chopped. Coming along nice
Yeah they have decent cab space… even with the chop. I still think i can channel an inch or two and fit ok. Especially cause of the seat riser. I can make the seat lower and fit pretty good. My truck had some van seats in it when i got it. The bench seat helps to fit better too!
I used seats from a Mitsubishi Paerjo 4x4. They are compact with removable headrests and plastic that could be discarded. Best of all, they seemed to have freshly arrived at the yard, so they were clean, dry, and odor free.
My Dad's '29 model A coupe was tight so he had an upholstery guy cut 2 -1/5" out of the back of the seat gave a lot more legroom
Got excited and went to pick up some corvette wheels i needed in the truck Was going great until i came to get gas… turned the truck off and it never started again… sad indeed. I saw one wire was getting pinched. I have bavkup fuses so replaced the blown fuse. But nada. Have fluid started for the carb. Not getting spark. I checked my coil and looks like it reads 12.1V with ignition on. Will keep troubleshooting but maybe i just redo the wiring. I have a harness already
Shake down runs will reveal the weakest link. Never give up though. Now you know you need to rewire it and be thorough.
I actually remembered I left the ignition on with the engine off for like 10 minutes while I went to the gas station... So, I think this one is on me. I ordered a replacement coil. I tested Voltage while cranking and looks like the distributor is pulsing between 0-12V... So hopefully that guy is intact.
Back when I was 18, probably when the Unilite was fresh to the market, they had a history of module failure. My buddy with his SBC popped like 3 modules, and my buddy with an SBF popped one or two. Because of their experience, I will not run them. Those modules were probably American made then and I'd bet there's zero chance they're American made now. I love the concept, but would replace it with Pertronix if it's dead. I have had friends have a good amount of success with them. One buddy used to road race a vintage mustang and never had a problem with. 3blap.
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