Technical Vibration at 85, 1962 Mercury

FFS man you just aren't getting the luck with this one eh!!

I'm ***uming they didn't ask about wheel stud length when you spec'd the axles?

That said, it looks like they should be sleeved nuts? Is that what you have been using?

 

Are you sure your car isn’t a red 58 Plymouth Fury

 

They’re a sleeved nut that goes almost all the way through the wheel. I speced the stud length the same as what came were on there.

 

I'm not quite seeing the problem now then?
Is the nut bottoming out before the wheel is compressed onto the drum face?

 

It’s as if the PCD is too small. With one nut in the other studs aren’t central in the hole in the wheel

 

OOoooooo I see I thought it was just the image distorted, I can see it now.

How strange, how does it measure out? I guess they must just have axles with 'blank' flanges and drill them to suit each order and there has been a faux pas on yours?

Have you checked the other axle in a wheel?

 

Yes. Other one was the same but not as bad. The measured slightly small but it’s only a few thou. So I can be 100% accurate. Some seemed to be worse than others.
I’ve knocked the studs out and pulled them in with the wheel on. Seems to have worked. I can get the wheel on and off now.

 

a win is a win!!!

 

the wheels are hub piloted at least?

 

No. Unfortunately not.

 

You know, the car would be just fine if you were to drive it on the correct side of the
road

 

I wonder if possibly all the studs weren't perfectly perpendicular to the axle flange. Though I don't logically see why they wouldn't be. Maybe runout at the flange?

 

I would be hesitant to run that setup with the studs that way without centering rings on the wheels. The studs have always been perfect on the axles I've installed over the years, this would make me nervous. While pulling them into the flange with the wheel on worked, if there is any vibration then this could be an issue.

Centering rings would eliminate the chance of introducing a potential problem while trying to solve one.

 

That’s what I was thinking.

 

When I manage to get the other side on we’ll see how we’re looking for vibration.
Ive got some centring rings floating around. I’ll have a look if any fit.

 

My 54 Chevrolet had a similar problem and everyone swore it was the driveshaft. After checking everything I could think of, I changed the brake drums and cured the problem. The balance weights were gone, so maybe they rusted and slung off at some time. If I have asimilar problem, I always check the drums with a bubble balancer. Good luck!

 

Ive run it up to speed on axle stands with no drums and the vibration was still there.

 

That test was in the past. Not got the other axle in yet

 

well,much better!

 

Both sides done and back on its wheels. Need to have a look at the heater core before I take it for a spin. It’s wobbling around like a ***** in a bowler hat! Bits of foam have been hitting me in the face when Ive had the blower on so I guess that might have something to do with it

 

That heater box looks like a right mission to get out. So went for a drive. Seems good at 80

 

On your private Russian test track of course

Happy to hear its fixed my man.

 

Sorry to hear about this tale of woe!

Oh: that heater box needs to come out as it might have been used as a mouse house (was on my car) which means you get all the goodness mice leave nicely circulating around you as you drive down the road...

 

The heater core was replaced before my ownership and I just know someone’s done a half ****d job. Bit like my neighbour’s fence in the above pic. FFS, why is it not straight and level!!??!!

 

Right. At least that excludes the mouse house. The fan was stuck on mine so it had to come out and it was a good thing, because you can imagine what it was like inside...

 

Hello,

After first reading your problem, I thought it was your front suspension. In our own case, the same thing happened at 65 and got worse at 75. So, I had our suspension guy and tire balance/alignment guy (one in the same) look at it. He immediately asked if I liked bias ply tires. The answer was no. but that was all we ran from teenage years on our Chevy sedans. He suggested steel radials. But, one thing he mentioned was tire shaving.

He was the same guy that did the work on all of our cars from a 1957 Buick sedan to a 58 Impala, flathead 40 Ford Sedan Delivery, our 671 SBC 40 Willys Coupe, 65 El Camino and finally another 327 powered 40 Ford Sedan Delivery. He took care on all of our cars. Before he did any work, he had all of the tires shaved to perfect roundness. Round tires? Aren't all tires round? Well, No...

The tire shaving was an eye opener. All of that rubber on the floor of the spinning machine and my eyes were looking at tons of miles of road trips, all sitting on the floor. But, after each truing on any of the cars, the balancer took less weight and balanced easily. Then the alignment was simple and now, each car was a hands free driver at any speed without any drift or inkling of a move to the next lane. Yes!

Jnaki

Most folks on the HAMB like bias ply tires and that is ok. But if one gets the tire shaving done as we did on our stock Firestones, later on Goodyears and later Vogue tires of our old cars to run great at any speed, then it was worth it.

Steel wheels are usually round and can be seen on a lathe or base mounted spinning stand. Then everyone ***umes the stock new tires from a factory dealer are also round and all it takes is balancing. Then a good alignment takes care of the rest.

Round tires (Michelin, Pirelli, Yokohama, Goodyear and Bridgestone) have gotten better with newer technology and so the latest cars have less balancing problems. But, the old cars, the old bias ply tires and even some brand name radials, as well as the proliferation of unknown brand of radials is suspect.

But, that is your choice…

Here are a couple of stories from the HAMB about tire shaving and balancing.

Bias vs radial
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/you-gotta-admit-it-bias-ply’s-make-any-car-cooler.1343258/page-2#post-15850697

Tire shaving and Nate Jones Tires in Long Beach CA
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tire-shaving-trueing.1332814/#post-15538928


Nate Jones Tire in Signal Hill, California, serving the Long Beach and Los Angeles area.

Tire Truing / Shaving
Patented Precision Wheel Balancing
Nitrogen Installation

Nate Jones Tire / Cowboy Tire
1896 Redondo Ave
Signal Hill, California 90755

(562) 597-3369


Yes, it is overseas in So Cal, from your location, but there must be some dealer that does the same treatment on tires in your location. Give them call or ask about your tire problems. YRMV

 

Heaterbox is fairly simple to remove.
All nuts are in engine copartment side off the firewall. Heater hoses too. Air hoses loosen pretty easy ja then there two cables and few electric wires which are easy loosen when box is on the floor.
Air conditioner may get in the way. Sonyou may have to loosen that too.