After a few oil posts by @Blues4U and looking at oil testing data online, I run Walmarts oil or whatever is on sale.
Even FoxHead's finest has gone up. Used to be two bucks for a 2-gal can at WesternAuto. Was for my 21-studder before it got refreshed. Now it's almost $40 for a FoxHead empty! Good thing my flathead doesn't leak & burn as muchl anymore.
That's how my local NAPA was until the PO sold out and retired. A corporation with multiple locations took over and the knowledge went away with it. Now I do a bit of price shopping, but typically end up back there or O'Reillys.
It's the old "supply & demand" thing. When it is only the big online players that can supply you, they will demand a much higher price.
Just being able to buy oil is a necessary luxury. If yer not a hater, Wal-Mart. For a proper fit best priced wiper blade and refill, the regular mechanics parts store. In this area it is NAPA
Beats what I paid the dealer last year for my DD. Was the first and last time for that. I normally do oil changes, etc., bur car was new to me and never could have imagined it would be almost CAN$400. I use Mobile 1 exclusively for our cars, and typically get it on sale for about CAN$40 - $50 for 4.73L /5Q.
VR-1 might be a little overkill on a mild flathead. Regular 10w-30 on sale oil should be good enough.
Last year, one of the local auto repair places sent me a coupon in the mail for a "Complete oil/filter change with premium oil" for $28.99. The '51 was due for an oil change, so I checked to make sure they had a proper filter and used what I considered "acceptable" oil. They seemed to have what I needed, so I brought the car in for an oil change. While I was there, I noticed that they had all of the ch***is lube equipment, so I ask them if they could do a ch***is lube too (on this era Fords, the ch***is lube interval is less than the oil change). Unfortunately, I forgot to ask the price. When I went to pick my car up, I was presented with a bill approaching $200.00. The difference was $115.00 for the ch***is lube, "shop supplies' "disposal fees", and various taxes. Live and learn. While I still take advantage on the local specials for oil and filter changes, I do my own "grease jobs". An additional advantage of doing my own is that I am sure that they didn't miss any zerks.
There's a flavor That I've not seen in a long time. PepBoys sold the 2 gallon can for $2. Oil still makes the best Threads
A smart man might consider starting a car parts business that is solely stocked by Amazon. Start out with the quick shelf purchases and take orders for special items. 80% of my car supplies arrives in one day.
Not a bad idea at all. Minimum start up costs, and as I see it, there are at least 77,302,580 people in this country alone that are dumb enough to fall for it.
How often do you change oil ? How many miles a year do you drive ? I change oil once a year if not driving much. Just to get rid of condensation. All the ones I drive regular I change around 5000 miles. I have roller cams in most so I don't worry about zinc. I mostly use plain old house brand oil non synthetic. Fram filter mostly but not all the time.
Hello, Disposal fees are varied, due to the legality of where you take the leftover oil and filter. The time it takes to drain the oil completely out of the filter, set aside the old oil into a legal disposal can, and then find a place where the oil can be recycled takes time and energy. Yes, old hot rod folks did all of the maintenance for most cars in the family. That is a given. But, then a move to a new/old house on a down sizing time line comes into play, one has to find a new gas station that accepts the used oil. If you happen to live within a couple of miles of a county trash dump site that happens to have a legal oil can/gas can and residue inside, then you are in luck. A lot of places have rules for disposal and now, the rules may make you alter the container, etc. Jnaki Usually, if the legal dump site run by the county or city is large enough, they may have a separate section just for oul and gas disposal. That may also include paint residue or left over gallon paint cans. For some, a drive up oil change and services may be right up the pocket book alley, It is not a weekly thing and the cost is now spread over many months to a year, so $120.00 is now $10.00 a month. Perhaps a Valvoline location is just what you need. No mess, no clean up and a drive in/drive out service… Note: One time a friend got a new job back many years ago. He said he works for Valvoline Oil Company in a sales capacity. His job was to go to various cities to scout out good locations for these new Valvoline Oil Services Centers. Not gas stations, but oil service only. It was the time when gas stations were moving into just gas and some food products. No service bay usage anymore. His requirements were flowing traffic nearby, small grounds to include a lube building, waiting room and parking. The property did not have to have a huge amount of property, but one could slide right into a close by shopping center or restaurant locations row. (depending on city regulations)…YRMV
I just bought a case of Brad Penn 10W30 for the new 32 roadster & Howard the 32 pickup, about $156.00 + tax.. Last week I had my 2025 High Country serviced. 8 quarts of oil, filter, rotate tires, labor. $189.00 Glad I only do that every 5000 miles.
I called our local Subaru dealer ( 60 miles away)for an oil change on our outback DD. 5 qt system and was quoted $160. includes their 100 point inspection. I Purchased 5 quarts synthetic, Mobil one container at Walmart $25, Subaru oil filters from Amazon $12/ free shipping, $37 total cost and I gave it the same 100 point inspection that the kid would have at the dealer, brake pads good, no leaks anywhere, checked tire pressure. The easiest oil change ever, oil filter on top of engine, no mess, the drain plug at opening in plastic shield under the engine, easy access. Granted I do have a 4 post lift, 15 minutes, done deal. IMO the car service/repair world has gone crazy, here in the Northwoods of Wisconsin, $150-175 per hour shop rates and 300-500 % markup on parts, WTF ??? Another example is my older SUV Winter DD, 175 K miles, needs some front end work, got a quote, it has minor steering wheel play, tie rod ends, upper and lowered ball joints, their quote with labor $1480, I bought their listed parts at Rock Auto, GM brand including shipping $148, tie rod ends easy, ball joints PIA, IMO, I have the tools, skills and have decided the play is acceptable for the little bit it's driven, too big of a job at this time with my back problem. The two hardest things for me to accept with this getting old, the health issues, self employed tradesman all my adult life, I've been a DIY all my life, I'm back to spending some time in my shop. learning to work around my back issues, happy to be out there as it's my happy place, my wife sometimes questions that. LOL
What is the name of your local store? I could buy a case of filters from them, pay the freight, and still save money at that price. Today, in Cleveland, TN, O'Reilly's is charging $29.99 for the Wix 51006, while NAPA's Gold filter is $29.43, Advance's Carquest Premium is $29.43 and AutoZone has the STP P4 for $8.99, Fram C4 for $13.49 and C4P for $17.99. None of these stores stock these filters. While I'm in favor of supporting local businesses, I have to look at the cost of the 26 mile round trip to any of these stores, only to be told that they can order a filter for me and I can come back the next day to get it. Hell, I can order a Wix 51006 from Amazon for $29.99 plus tax (9.75%) and save myself the cost of the trip and the time.
I'm not sure how the pricing works for my cost verses "list price" but it was $41.96 which is a big difference from the $14.99 I was billed.
I know it's "race type stuff" but I was still a bit sore in the wallet area from buying 4 qts of Redline Heavy Shockproof for the faceplated hemi 4 speed box I put together this week. At least I get to buy 4 more for the quickchange rear... -rick
They probably wont go under if you bought oil and filters elsewhere, and kept buying other car items from them either. I appreciate loyalty, but not paying double for oil and filters. What "Pacific NW" are you referring to? I live in the Pacific NW (Oregon) and not sure what parts store matches your descriptions?
My guy, flatheads do not need that fancy oil, the valve spring pressures are not that high. I have been running whatever the cheapest 30w is at the time of purchase. Now if you’re running Isky dual springs on a full race cam I could maybe see it but even then it still won’t round off a lobe running regular oil since a stock SBC valve train has more pressure on the lobes than even the hottest of flatheads.
Dad's buddy grew up on a farm and they had an old truck with a flathead they just used on the property, never on roads. He said whenever they changed the oil on something else they dumped the dirty oil into the flathead, lol. Truck rusted apart before the engine died, so I was told anyway. Who knows if he was bs-ing me....
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