I put a Jim Weimer setup in my 31 five window and it aligned up very well. Goes down the road straight and has a great ride. Bob and Darrell know their ****. I have been to their fab shop in Wisconsin. Their tubular arm's are very well built. Having said that however, look at the Ch***is Engineering setup for your car. It bolts in ( can be welded later) AND has a neat feature- adjustable threaded cups to alter the ride height. Very nice products. I put a C/E setup in both the front and rear of my 46 Tudor and I never had a better ride. First rate stuff. Wished I hadn't sold it. Kermit
GET a set of four [orig]stamped A-Arms NEW- an 11"big brake kit-W calipers/a set of 2" drop spindles and a chrome manual rack and pinion for 750.00 new from "Fatrodder" on E.....y Then use a stock MustII crossmember and coils...[which fits within a 1/4" of yer 47 frame width].....And youre in cheap as it can be done! they sell parts there every week...
Yes. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133412&highlight=Jaguar There's more, search for it. I think AV8 did a big reply post on it on a thread a couple years ago.
so. any ideas. whos the best? whos the cheapest? what should i do????[/quote] I'll add my .02. I put an original mustang cross member in my '39, using stock upper & lower arms, springs etc. You do have to notch the frame to ge an original crossmember to fit. I find them to be about 1 1/2 too narrow, however. The aftermarket crossmembers put the front wheels out nearer to where they need to be to track with the rear end. From what I have read from your previous posts, installing should not be a problem which ever way you go. We just put a Ch***is Engineering bolt on kit in my son's '52 it went well so you might look at their kits and use stock pieces which can be picked up at really good prices. There weld in kits are a little less $. I do recomend that you use the strut rods which pivot at the frame rather than the stock ones. It will make the car handle better. Also, I highly recomend a front sway bar. It will help with the body roll those fat chevies are known for. I used one from a Pinto, it has less drop in front than a Mustang. (Of course you could drop about $120 with Ch***is for one of their straight ones) Try it you'll like it! J.
Kanter sells the stuff to replace the worn items on your stock front suspension, and their prices aren't usually that bad. I used their parts to rebuild the brakes on the 56 Olds rear I put into my old Chevy and they worked fine. NAPA may even be able to get you what you need if you don't wanna mess with mail order. I'd keep the stock front end under your Chevy and just rebuild/lower it I were you...especially if you're keeping it Stovebolt powered. Now, if ya wanna run a 2.3 litre Ford engine with an SROD four speed and a 7.5" four lug rear axle to completely "Pinto-ize" your Chevy, then a 'Mustang II' set-up might be okay!! Ha Ha...but really, those suspensions only belong under THESE cars...
check with kennys rod shop in ohio.....we used one of their kits on chevygirlrox 's truck and seemed to be great parts.....i think it was around 1200 and came with dropped or stock spindles........it is worth a try to check them out.
I think most OEM cars have a variation between frt and rear track widths dont they? I'll add my .02. I put an original mustang cross member in my '39, using stock upper & lower arms, springs etc. You do have to notch the frame to ge an original crossmember to fit. I find them to be about 1 1/2 too narrow, however. The aftermarket crossmembers put the front wheels out nearer to where they need to be to track with the rear end. From what I have read from your previous posts, installing should not be a problem which ever way you go. We just put a Ch***is Engineering bolt on kit in my son's '52 it went well so you might look at their kits and use stock pieces which can be picked up at really good prices. There weld in kits are a little less $. I do recomend that you use the strut rods which pivot at the frame rather than the stock ones. It will make the car handle better. Also, I highly recomend a front sway bar. It will help with the body roll those fat chevies are known for. I used one from a Pinto, it has less drop in front than a Mustang. (Of course you could drop about $120 with Ch***is for one of their straight ones) Try it you'll like it! J.[/quote]
Calll here and ask for Pete. http://www.fasttimesrods.comTell him Rob sent ya. For $1320.00 I'm sure you'd get a full set up with tubular arms from Pete.
Kanter is friggin EXPENSIVE. and those are the prices i was going by. and the Stovebolt is LOOOOONG gone. try to keep up holmes...
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