Im sure some of you have seen my other thread speculating on swapping a 59 Buick front clip onto my 59 bel-air 4 door. I figured I would start a new thread that will become the build thread when/if I'm able to get this rolling. This will also be all the technical odds and ends that go beyond just swapping panels. The plan: split the frame rails behind the front crossmember and slide everything up to make up the potential difference in wheel base. Then install the "new" front clip. The challenges: moving everything up will obviously affect more than just panel fitment, so here's what I've determined so far: Trans crossmember, I'll either have to make/source a crossmember that allows for a 2-4" shift from the factory mounts. This route would mean lengthening the driveline to compensate. Or, depending on the amount of movement, keep the factory crossmember and upgrade to a newer, longer, transmission. (700r4?) This would hopefully allow retention of the stock driveline with just an updated slip yoke. Steering: the steering shaft would need to likely be lengthened. Not sure how much of a bear that would be. Throttle and shift linkage: both would need to be lengthened or adjusted to compensate for engine/trans movement. Other: electrical, brake, and fuel lines would need to all be adjusted as well. Im trying to plan out as much as possible to make the swap as quickly and efficiently as possible. Plans are to get measurements from my car and the donor as soon as I'm able to aid in the overall planning. I would also like to try and minimize expenses (LOL) making this a reality. Im working out of a single car garage on a slope, so this will definitely be a challenge. Any insight/advice/input is always welcome and appreciated. Pictures of the car, and the goal. Final paint color likely won't be gold, but rather oe gothic gold with a candy apple red roof, or perhaps something else.
I am all for this and I'm watching this thread. I think the frame lengthening is the way to go, although I'd consider moving the motor mounts backward to compensate for the length rather than moving the engine forward with the suspension.
That is also an option. Id have to see how they would do without the front crossmember under them though.
Does 59 use side mounts? (I'm ***uming it's a V8), if it does, maybe you can switch to the front mounts to keep the mounts close to the crossmember? Not sure if that'd help but just a thought.
You’ll be combining 2 of my favorite cars ever. ‘59 really might have been GM’s finest hour. Subscribed.
It is a v8, and side mount is correct. I almost wonder if I couldnt build a small crossmember to support the lower portions of the mounts... Same! I dont dislike the Buick rear, but that deep V on the chevy, plus the tail lights, are just impossible to say no to.
Depending on what the measurement is between front and rear holes, one could almost move the mounts back to the rear holes and fabricate something to support the back half of the mount. The only issue I can forsee with this right off the bat is fuel pump clearance. Ill have to see if the pump has enough leeway to move back a few inches onto the crossmember.
It's not to hard to get custom bading made, so you should replace the Bel-Air scripts on the front fenders with ones that say Bel-Victa.
probably wouldn't be too bad to cut out a pocket for the fuel pump to sit in if needed and box it in. all of this is going to be done with the front clip off so everything will be easy to get at and if you need to put the engine in and out a few times there won't be anything in the way
Had some free time to get measurements on the car. Rear of fender to wheel center: 33" Center to front of fender: 24.5" P***enger motor mount bolt spacing on crossmember: 3.5" center to center. This is looking more and more doable. Just need to get numbers off a Buick for the fender size and spacing and I'll be ready to really make a game plan.
I would think you need the measurement from both cars, from the front edge of the front door to the center of the front wheel. That will tell you everything you need to know.
I still need to find a buick to measure, but when I say the rear of the fender, I'm referring to the entire panel and not just the arch. So give or take a quarter inch or so for panel gap and its about the same measurement as from the front of the door.
Was able to get a measurement off of a Buick. Looks like theyre 35" on the nose from wheel center to the back of the fender. At this point all su****ions have been confirmed that the wheel base will need to come 2" forward. Now I just need to determine the best way to knock out all the minor details that will accompany this particular modification. The steering shaft is going to be my biggest hangup, not sure the best ideal way to add 2" into it. Brake lines wont be terrible, I may actually update to a dual master while everything is apart. Slowly but surely I'll get everything mapped out and squared away. If all goes to plan, I'll try and make this project happen over the winter while the car would be down anyway. On a related note, anyone wanna car sit my 66 pickup so I can have a spare open garage bay? LOL
Never a bad idea even if you do not go with front discs. Just be sure to add the check valves if staying with drums.
Nope. Whoever did the install just popped them on and said good enough. With the dual master will come all of the other correct parts to make things work properly.
This is a great idea. I’m with you that the Buick front end is the perfect mate to the Chevy rear. Stretching the Chevy ch***is 2” should be a piece of cake. And it’s kind of a coin toss whether to move the engine with the front frame, build a new transmission crossmember and lengthen the driveshaft or leave the engine back, build new motor mounts and move the radiator back a little. Just depends on which is easier for you. Either way, the steering shaft should be simple, Speedway has lots of u-joints, couplers and stub shafts to work with if you need something. Go for it, this is crazy cool. Good luck.
Most likely I'll leave the engine where it is and fabricate some new mounts. Some flat plate and guessets off the rear of the crossmember should be easy enough to fab up. I figure if the radiator winds up being a little far forward, I can always hide an electric puller fan behind the shroud to help with air flow. The challenge with the shaft will just be how little it needs to move. I might be able to get lucky with just adding a u joint to bring it out enough. Time will tell!
Good lord! That with the 6 blade nailhead fan I have kicking around and I'd never have to worry about overheating!
Maybe I'm missing something, but why not shorten the sheet metal 2" like your AI did? That solves all of your ch***is problems, but creates sheet metal welding fun. It looks like you're using Buick doors to line up the body lines. Are Buick doors the same size as Chevys? Convert it to a 2-door while you're at it and solve that problem!
So i actually did think about shortening the fenders and such like the ai model. The challenge there is getting it right and also dealing with everything like the hood taper and such. The challenge with 2 door vs 4 door is the body line from front and rear. With the 4 door its broken up enough to work, on a 4 door youd need to probably combine a set of doors to get the body lines right. I may be wrong, but just from what I've looked at that's how it appears to me.
You can get a pressure reducer / check valve off of evil bay for under $10.00 and put it on the drum section and should take care of the problem. Either that or if there are any local junk yards get a factory version. Either way will correct it. Message me here if you want the evil bay part and I will send you the link.
The Jalopy Journal
