Thanks guys I think I’ll run with the torsion bars I have and use polyurethane bushings. A sway bar is probably in the future. Dan
The lower inner bushings are usually a fight once you get the arm out. Think torch, hacksaw, die grinder. I forget the exact sequence, but it's smart to loosen everything and get things freed up before removal from the ch***is. Otherwise you are fighting to separate things on the ground. That bushing won't but the strut rod at each end, the ball joints, the torsion bar (special tool) etc. Read up on this stuff to learn from others who have fought and won. It's one of those jobs that require hammers, pry bars and some brute force, but planning ahead and thinking a few steps ahead can cheat code many parts.
While I'm sure they will each tell you their own brand is superior to everyone else's, the process and materials are similar. You can try to get actual user results by going to the forums where most mopar users talk. The big 3 used different designs, so how they work on a Camaro or Ford twin I beam is general, not specific to your car. Just like any other aftermarket 'upgrade', they can induce other issues and have different trade-offs. It's applying more modern materials to an old design, not redoing the whole system. Compare pricing, intended use and miles, issues, and those tradeoffs. Install is a small part of the use, but if they are a major pain to install, it will color your ownership. Most I've seen are lubed during install, and nothing after, but you still need to lube the ball joints and tie rods. Also, any of them require you do final tightening at ride height not hanging, although the urethane will not tear easily. If you are lowering the ride height, check to see if it will align at that height. There are different products that extend adjustments for this and loose factory tolerances or slight unibody damage. Better to know this and install during the job rather than after doing it once, then finding out you need offset parts. It can really be a can o' worms, or just a basic refresh. Huge difference in price, ride and tire wear, too. Note that most OEs (I don't know of any) still do not use urethane, even exotics.
Urethane bushings were supposed to be a big improvement in off-road. There are advantages and disadvantages. They’re typically harder, so less cushioning effect, and can squeak. Not sure about rubber quality today, but I like to stick with the tried and true rubber bushings.
I was wondering if that experience was many years ago, I've not heard of an issue with poly bushings freezing and shattering, especially on Mopars. But the poly bushings likely showed up on GM vehicles before they did on Mopars. I did hear the early poly bushings had more problems then being hard and making noise, early on. The product we call 'rubber' is a derivative from the sap of rubber trees. They have been draining that sap from the rubber trees for more then 100 years now, and the amount of rubber currently being produced has a higher quan***y then ever before. One simply needs to look around and see how quickly many modern rubber products are deteriorating in recent years, before we speculate about the current quality of the rubber. Most rubber products used in the automotive world are pretty poor quality compared to the same product 5 years ago.
How rude! You should have contacted track security and let them ****** those big clods out of the facility. Or at least try to find some seats in the "No Clods" section of the stands.
Back from Vacation You might ask why a retired guy needs a vacation - I don’t have an answer Spent two days on the electrics About drove myself crazy, my BIL said it was a short trip. Taillights started staying on after everything was shut off. Looked for crossed wires etc. Traced to light switch with the switch off I had two posts hot only one should be hot for dome light etc. but the second one feeds the tail lights. Ordered a new switch you’ll never guess well maybe Anyways defective new switch new one will be here Tuesday. I also need a new instrument panel voltage reducer mainly for the fuel gauge. May buy a stand alone fuel gauge. While I had the steering column dropped and instrument cluster out (3 times) I decided to see why my speedometer didn’t work. Fixed now and I ain’t saying why lol. Dan
I think all of the DIY folks like ourselves are getting really tired of the **** quality of almost anything we buy today. Watched a vid this morning on FB about a field welder who said like 5% - 10% of stick rods from Lincoln are no good right out of the box and it’s a known issue. Anywhoo, looking forward to more updates on the Dirty Deed Done Cheap Dart. Lol!
Found an Indian blanket at a truck stop for the back seat. Made a cardboard template for the back deck under the window. Painted and taped down for now until I get ready for upholstery. Dan
Used one of my Norwell stickers Thanks Jeff @Jeff Norwell Took the car for an 80 plus mile trip. The temp was in the mid to upper 80s . No overheating with the /6 radiator. I don’t have a shroud yet and don’t have the vacuum advance hooked up yet. Both these items should help engine run cooler. Engine temp got to 190 while idling for a bit but ran at 180 driving. Speedometer was reading about 20% high. Has 2.93 gears now will get 3.55:1 soon then I’ll change speedo gear to match. Dan
Several years ago we had to install 3 brand new headlight switches in a row before the 4th one was a good switch, on one of my son's projects. All 4 of those headlight switches came from 4 different parts stores, none of them had 2 headlight switches in stock! We tried all of the headlight switches in town, finally the last parts store in town had a good switch. We just returned from vacation last weekend too, we did 9 days on the road. It was nice to get away from home, but it was pretty nice to get back home too.
I haven’t checked the latest switch yet. Decided to take drive and visit a friend instead. I should be mowing the lawn but it’s just too hot and humid. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it. I do like the looks of your gauges. The wagon is too cool for school, can’t wait to see it. Dan
Put the new light switch in I still have tail lights that won’t shut off???? The good news is my high beam indicator works. Who knows. Just wired up the wipers for high speed only. I’m going try to rebuild the wiper switch, used and nos switches are crazy money. Dan
Unplug switch. If still lights, wiring is wrong or shorted. If only lights with switch connected, switch is bad (check with ohmmeter, should have no continuity switch OFF) or it's wired wrong. Switch and wiring. Unfortunately, this is just under dash, not out to the headlights. You might find a better one out there. Also does not show internal switch which is common. Can't quite make out all the marks, but H should be headlight, L2 Light Green B1 looks like battery,m L1 Black with tracer B2 to dome light No mark M2 and M2A Yellow wires to dome light and door pin switches (ground). D is the dimmer at the front, INST is E1 Tan wire goes to fuse box Can't make out the mark, but L7 Black wire going to the back body harness should be the tail light. Should have continuity to B1 in first pull and second pull, none in OFF. That's most of it. Kind of hard to read, but the circuit you are concerned with is ID'ed.
Rod yep tail lights go out when switch is unplugged. The funny thing is I checked the latest switch and it looked fine. The other switches had a couple tabs with continuity. I’m not taking the switch out for a while, I just unhook the battery when I park. I’m wondering if I somehow corrupted the switch when I stabbed the knob in ????. The next time I have the switch out I’ll check it. Man what a pain,!have to drop the steering column and un hook speedo cable to get cluster out. I might drop the fuse block and see if I can get the switch out that way. I studied those schematics until I’m silly (didn’t take long) and traced wires I’m positive it’s the switch. My switch looks like the one you posted. Thanks Dan
You might be able to pop the connector off using a long, thin screwdriver, moving the lock tabs and pushing. I kind of remember how tight it is, but it's been a long time. Those switches were used for a while, and one of the parts that helped the rep on those bulletproof A bodys. They got replaced after a couple decades, but only due to corrosion in the bulkhead and grounds that increased resistance and overheated them. Rarely replaced before that. I am pretty sure it's modern cost cutting on replacement parts, not the knob install that's to blame. BTW, the way to push them in is lightly push and twist to get the triangle aligned, then shove it into the spring clip. If you have the room, you can push the ****on on the side and not have to push hard at all.
I'll rummage in my pile this evening, I may have an OE switch lying around, used, but might be a better option than new junk.
Picked up a couple wiper blades, a windshield wash pump and misc today, will install tonight or tomorrow. All I need to make a decent Daily Driver now is a functioning fuel gauge, and some good tires. Dan
Dan, Our experience with the headlight switch issue we had years ago was that the fiber board inside the switch was warped. As you pulled the switch knob out, some of the contacts would make the connections and some would not, but then other connections simply would not disconnect. So, just an after thought, back in my younger days I worked with an older gentleman that was a bit on the wild side in his youth. He was telling me that back when he was young, many of the guys he hung with would put an on/off switch at the bottom of their dashes so they could turn off the taillights when the cops were chasing them. For the time being, you could run the tail light wire through an off/on switch. Leave the switch turned off until you wanted to turn on your tail lights. You would just have to remember to turn them on at night, then shut them off when you don't want them on. It would be easier then disconnecting the battery every time. Then after you get a good switch, leaving the off/on taillight switch would be an option, just in case you choose to outrun the cops some night... At any rate I would be sure to let the place you got the headlight switch from that it is malfunctioning, they should be replacing it with a good switch.
Thanks Gene, I thought about a switch for the tail lights but I would forget to turn on. I’ve returned the switch once already, I’ll return again but my confidence in parts these days is on the low side. Not to sure about running the cops anymore, not saying it didn’t happen way back but I’ve matured a little - not grown up but I’m just a little more mature kid now. lol. Dan
The Jalopy Journal
