These days a guy can get a lighted off/on switch. A switch that lights up when the tail lights are tuned on would be helpful. Mopar used pretty much the same headlight switch for several years on several vehicles. That time we put 4 switches on one car before we got a good switch was a 60s Mopar, and that was probably 20 years ago! Things have not changed for the better, keeping one's eyes open for a different option is not always a bad idea.
Good idea Gene I have to find a better switch for the washer pump so I’ll pick up a lighted switch also. Dan
Installed a windshield washer pump and reservoir. The spray nozzles wouldn’t work and cheaply made. Used some nickel copper break line for nozzles. I did find some factory repos but like much MOPAR stuff it’s pricey. I’ll look in junk yards and swap meets. What I have now works. Dan
Was watching Nick’s Garage last night on YT, and he went on a tirade about the “quality” of auto parts these days. He never complains, but a rear leaking main seal from some type of aftermarket “billet” part, and an oil pump drive with a tapered slot that caused the distributor to give dual readings on his timing light was the last straw. Engine was a 440 stroker. He says he has to start using original used parts.
The quality of parts really ****s these days, first the points distributor with a lot of run out and then the two light switches, I really can’t complain about the washer set up it’s a universal and it was cheap. Dan
I was warned about this by the X-Frame guys when I was looking for parts for my 62. I've been able to source NOS switches on the auction site. Sometimes a little pricey but it saves headaches.
I take it back about the cheap washer pump reservoir, popped out the holder today got against the alt pulley making a hell of a racket. Since I just got done hammering on the beast I thought something important came uncorked lol. Dan
While I was on my drive I stumbled across this. COOL talked with owner John nice car nice guy. I was going to post on the thread I thought was called “What did you see today?” But I can’t find it. Any ideas? Dan
Worked on setting the vacuum advance. Mancini recommends cruising at between 2000 and 4000 rpm and recording the highest vacuum in these cruise conditions. I averaged about 14 inches with a high of 17. The next step was to use a mighty vac and take the distributor to 50 degrees advanced at 2600 rpm, which I set at 50 with 17 inches vacuum. I took for a test drive, didn’t notice any difference performance wise, I didn’t expect to. I’m hoping to gain some economy I recorded about 12 mpg with out vacuum advance. My foot was into the accelerator a lot and also idled a fair amount on the tankful I recorded. Next up: Carb tuning, it’s running a little rich, maybe a smaller jet size? I’ll have to see if I recorded the jet size. Dan
If you're running an AFB Carter, don't think jets, think metering rods and power piston springs. Both can be changed easily without dismantling the carb. Many times just changing the power piston springs may be all you have to do. Did you connect the vacuum advance to a ported or full manifold vacuum source? For a street driver with a "funny" intake and/or camshaft, using full manifold vacuum tends to work best. Especially with an auto trans and a tight convertor. Crazy cams and intakes tend to kill vacuum at idle. In drive at idle the torque converter also place an additional load on the motor. Vacuum often can get low enough that the power pistons (or power valves) will attempt to richen the mixtures. Idle quality goes to hell and it tends to foul plugs. And often times the car won't respond well to adjustments to the idle mixture screws. Advancing ignition timing is an any easy way to increase manifold vacuum. Using full manifold vacuum it will mostly work temporarily when idle vacuum is the highest. Off idle with the engine under a load, the vacuum drops off and partly retards the timing. The mechanical advance should also be coming into play around the same time. If you don't have one, get ahold of a decent size vacuum gauge. Plug it into full manifold vacuum anytime you're doing carb or ignition or general tune up work. Try to maintain the most vacuum possible when making any adjustments.
I’m running an original Carter AFB, not sure which metering rods I have, I’ll investigate. I’m running a Holley Street Dominator manifold and just dual exhaust stock cam. One of the neat things about AFB s is being to change things just by removing the top. I have excellent throttle response almost unbelievable. I have not tried manifold vacuum yet. As far as timing I’m going to order a timing plate and a spring set. With the one heavy one light spring the distributor advance curve is slow and maxing out at around 4000 rpm and I believe I probably have too mech advance I do have an adjustable vac advance. Thanks for the advice! Dan
I’m hoping to have the new rear diff in and car painted by Lloydfest. I’m not sure how much longer the 7-1/4 is going to last. Dan
Way back when I eliminated the Amp gauge I used a fuse instead of a fusible link. Well Saturday night the fuse blew Nota nothing no lights, no ignition, dead in the water. Well I did order some fusible links stored them with my tools. I figured I’d install them when I cleaned up the engine bay. Ha ha! I really don’t like working on the side of the road with a flashlight. A gentleman and scholar stopped and ***isted me. Of course I didn’t have crimp connectors or crimp tool so we cobbled it together - got me home! There are good people in this world. Fixed the wiring properly and now I’m ready for the next shakedown trip. Dan
When I was a younger man, most of my poor fuel mileage was due to a heavy foot. Now that I am no longer a young man, most of my poor fuel mileage is due to a heavy foot, and too much idle time... These days, I figure that smiles per mile are much more important then most mpg numbers. That works out great until the cost of gas exceeds $50 a week, that translates into about 170 miles a week. When that happens, I cut back on my cruising a bit (I'm retired, I don't have to go hardly anywhere). Just because I may not drive as much every week, that doesn't mean I drive the old truck any easier, I still have a heavy foot...
Took the Dart on the biggest road trip yet about 250 miles plus. No problems. Drove from here to Dubuque and encountered a fairly severe rain storm. The windshield didn’t leak and the car didn’t hydro plane yea. The 2-60 AC worked great. Cowl vents under the dash and wings really are nice, what a shame they don’t put those in cars anymore. I did remove some timing, I was at 16 initial 35 at 2000 per Mancini 50 at 2600 with vac advance hooked up. The fact that the mech advance was still adding at 3000 rpm spooked me. I never heard any detonation but I’m a chicken. I’ll order a mechanical advance limit plate and a spring set, these plates allow 12,14,16 etc mech advance. Then I’ll set max mech at 35. Visited my brother in Dubuque, we went for a ride, he enjoyed the ride. Next I headed for Avoca Wisconsin. Dan
I stopped in Avoca Wisconsin for some eats @67drake s new pizza place. When you order your food standing in front of a 55 Chevy front end there is something special going on. Met Drake and his wife Dawn, very nice people they have a very neat pizza place. Oh and the food WOW. I had I slice of pizza while I was there - very very good. Ordered a meatball sandwich to take home for my wife and myself. I only made it a few miles before I had to stop and have a few bites. This thing had some serious meatballs. The wife loved her half! They have a car run and get together every other Wednesday, 150 plus cars. I’ll post the flyer after getting an Ok from the mods. Dan
You know there’s been a lot of talk about Hot Rodding dyeing, the younger generation doesn’t care about older cars etc etc blah blah blah. BS on my cruise I had several young , teenage and young adults give me the thumbs up, had quite a few ask about my car and also What’s Lloydfest? I think our hobby will be ok in these young peoples hands! Dan
I checked the resistance on the fuel sending unit it was 39 ohms with 7 to 8 from full and 81 ohms with about a gallon gone I’m guessing that it’s 10 ohms at empty and 90 ohms full. I couldn’t find a gauge in this range. Actually all the gauges I see are opposite with 10 ohms full and 70 ohms empty. Any suggestions on where to find a 10 ohm empty and 70,80, or 90 ohm full gauge. I’m not looking for perfect but something that is close. Thanks in advance Dan
The Jalopy Journal
