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Projects Cutting my Hotrod Teeth (57 Chevy Budget build/revival)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RaginPin3Appl3, Aug 5, 2017.

  1. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Didn’t think I actually needed the baffle but reading up on it, apparently I do. The valve I completely overlooked!
     
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  2. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,998

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    There’s your vacuum leak/carb issues.
     
  3. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 41,106

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    so you had the hose from the road draft tube area hooked up to vacuum on the carb ? that would be a giant vacuum leak. I would be surprised if you don't have to rejet again. or did I mis understand what you said?
     
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  4. Get that straightened it should perk up
     
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  5. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Well, technically not the carb, but the intake vacuum port behind it, but yes, that’s how I had done it. Looking back on it, I think I misunderstood that the outlet bolted into the road draft hole was itself the PCV valve, but it’s instead just a port. I’m going to run a proper PCV valve into the base of the carb this time. I robbed the complete system off the 265 which has all good quality USA made parts on it.
     
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  6. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,998

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    What it properly looks like… IMG_6099.jpeg IMG_6098.jpeg IMG_6097.jpeg
     
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  7. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    How I’m doing it is slightly different, with the PCV valve in the grommet right at the hole in the block, then a hose ran to a regular hose barb fitting at the base of the carb. I like the idea of having the outlet fitting only, at the block hole, and the PCV valve screwed into the carb, so will hang onto the parts I took off and maybe eventually change it out. Or use it on the 265.
     
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  8. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,998

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    That works as well. As well, I got you to clarify exactly how you corrected the system.
     
  9. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 41,106

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    No pcv valve and a wide open 3/8 vacuum leak is the reason for the stumbling and backfiring
     
  10. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Alright, I got everything back together and it seems to be running a whole lot smoother. Unfortunately now I have a m***ive oil leak somewhere back by the firewall on the p***. Side. Not sure from where, and I only noticed because hot oil was dripping onto the wet driveway since it rained this morning. No good deed goes unpunished :mad:
     
  11. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Maddeningly, the leak is coming from either the rear main seal, or the new oil pan gasket I just installed…
     
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  12. warhorseracing
    Joined: Dec 26, 2006
    Posts: 2,995

    warhorseracing
    Member
    from cameron wv

    The rear main was not leaking bad before so start with the simple things. You changed the oil pan gasket. It could have slipped. The pan is awkward and you are working alone while trying to get the bolts started. Relax. You are still learning and have a lifetime to go.
     
  13. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,438

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Do yourself a HUGE favor and get a one piece pan gasket for it.
     
  14. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    IMG_4917.jpeg IMG_4918.jpeg IMG_4919.jpeg
    At the halfway point in replacing the rear main seal. Thankfully nothing broke with more torque on the ratchet. Looks pretty good to me for an engine celebrating its 60th birthday this year, what do you guys think?
     
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  15. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,998

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Note: there is a thin and a thick. Early engines require the thin.
     
  16. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    It’s getting replaced this time either way! Turns out it was not installed at an offset, which isn’t ideal, so I’ll put it back together the “right” way…
     
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  17. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Yeah I was gonna say I don’t think one piece seals are really available for this era of small blocks from what I could find. That goes for main seals and oil pan seals!
     
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  18. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,998

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    There are. A buddy did the mix up. Both available.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2026
  19. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Good to know. Will see if I can procure one from a local shop parts store today.
     
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  20. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,998

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

  21. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,998

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    There are rear main seal does and don’t. Like off setting gap and lite sealant across the cap. Do a YouTube dive on it.
     
  22. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 41,106

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Man, you sure aren’t afraid of tearing things apart! Did you have the intake off recently? A leak from the rear seal area there can look like a main seal or oil pan leak…. Good luck
     
  23. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    I did have it off to put the oil separator in a few days ago. I don’t think that’s the cause though because I felt along the back of the intake and it was dry and not oily
     
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  24. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    It’s what annoyance/getting repeatedly pissed off about the same thing does to a man :rolleyes:

    I WILL fix this oil leak damnit!
     
  25. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

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  26. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Hoping to have the car back together to go see JAWS at the drive-in tonight, so that’s another motivator;)
     
  27. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 14,998

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Never used one. But ideal when gravity is against you. I hate doing pans in the car.
     
  28. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    All back together and guess what… STILL slinging oil everywhere! Now I’m at a loss. It’s not exactly easy to get under the car while it’s running and slinging hot oil everywhere to see where it’s actually coming from.
     
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  29. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,718

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    How would I tell if it’s a transmission leak instead of an oil leak? It looks like motor oil to me, but how can I be sure? I don’t know what else could possibly be leaking at this point on the engine side of the flywheel, but the flywheel is slinging oil when it runs
     
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  30. warhorseracing
    Joined: Dec 26, 2006
    Posts: 2,995

    warhorseracing
    Member
    from cameron wv

    I hope that you have a torque wrench to replace the rear main cap. As far as your continuing leak. ???????? Try and get some help to replace it next time or a stud and nut kit instead of the bolts.
     
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