I was having problems with the choke not opening on my Edelbrock carb. pulled the power wire off the choke and tested the pos. connection with the ign. switch in the on position , The test light showed no power so I checked all the fuses ( there was no dedicated fuse for a choke ) fuses looked good however with the ign. still on none of the fuses showed any power on the test light . The car starts fine everything still works except choke . Never ran into this problem. Why does everything still work but I can't detect any power at the fuses ??? Thanks Everyone
I suspect that your test light is: 1. Not grounded properly or 2. Broken - I've thrown a couple of test lights into the trash can, the previous test light has an internal intermittent connection. First, I always verify that the test light works by connecting it to the battery. Then, connect the wire from the test light to a good ground (Paint is a good insulator, That bright shiny bolt might be fastened to a plastic panel (insulated from ground). Verify that the test light/ground connection is good my probing a known source of voltage (center conductor of the cigarette lighter socket in my old Ford pickup). Russ
I never use a test light without checking it across the battery terminal. They’re typically cheap for a reason. Same with my VOM.
Choke doesn't work. No power to choke. Problem is the power supply. follow the wire and connect it properly. https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/350/350-1478.pdf P.S. Toss or fix test light.
As he said, Follow the wire and make sure of where it goes . I don't remember ever seeing an electric choke circuit that had it's own fuse. Many fuse blocks have a hot when the key is on from ignition pin that is not hot when the key is on accessory though. That is where I would run it as you don't want it to draw power if you have the car sitting with it on accessory while the radio is on. I just bought another one of these test lights the other day and the cord is long enough so you can reach around and still have it connected to a good ground. It also works with both negative and positive grounds so it is good for 6 volt Fords. I'm thinking that who ever wired the choke up didn't wire it to a proper keyed by igniton switch circuit.
You might need a test light to check your test light........ Or......... try it with the engine actually running. Wire an electric choke to a switched 12V power source that is only active when the engine is running (like the alternator stator "STA" terminal or a keyed relay). Avoid connecting it directly to the ignition coil to prevent voltage drops and ballast resistor interference.
I would check a wiring diagram but if memory is correct fords did get choke power from alternator,GM got power when oil pressure was seen from pressure switch. So power to choke is when running
I had a few different test lights over the years. Varying degrees of quality and frustration. If you have the use and the money, check out Power Probe. Long leads go to the battery and will reach to the back of a modern truck. Light and sound when probing power and ground, plus a digital readout. On top, it has a rocker switch so you can apply power or ground to the tip. It's not cheap, but it makes electrical diagnosis so much easier. I've got the base model, it appears they have a whole lot more but the basic one is great.
seems odd to need running engine to power choke When there is no power to the choke it is in the closed position. Once the engine starts power is applied to the choke to open it. Phil
If you turned your ignition to the on position to roll down your power window before you start your car on a cold morning the electric choke would be heated and wide open if powerd up with just the ignition in the on position and might not then start. Also if for some other reason your car wont start on a cold morning, being you attempted to start it with the key on,now the choke is wide open adding another problem to why it wont start up.
No, it would be odd to have power starting to open the choke before you had the engine running. That would sort of defeat the whole purpose of having the choke.
I've had two cars that had ignition power to the choke and the choke operated properly on both. The heating is not instantanious, but turning the key on and waiting 4 or 5 minutes isn't a good idea. When I turn the key to on, the next thing I do is engage the starter. If the choke is adjusted properly you only need to press the throttle down one time to set it and it should start and run on fast idle.
I just realized that I actually have had three cars setup that way. I added an electric choke to my 57 T-Bird. It also started fine and the choke worked as it should.
This thread covers it well. Take note of posts #9 and #10. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/get-power-to-electric-choke.1287379/
Thank you everyone , As suggested I tried the test light directly to the battery and it worked, so I followed the hot wire from the choke back and found the wire had somehow loosend itself from the connection . Repaired that and works fine. Still confused as to why the test light failed to show power at the fuses with the key on ? Mabey I didn't have it grounded good enough , I just wanted to thank everyone for all your help.
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