Made my own cast alloy nailhead valve covers

AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME!!! Now THAT'S what I'm talkin' about!! I would love to see more of this kind of stuff!

Just awesome bro!

I wish someone would do a tech thread just for making bucks sand casting prep. work so "YOU TOO" can make cool stuff to send out for reproduction...

 

Uhhhhh... WOW!

Nice work.... What else do you have planned?

 

you guys over there need to stop making us look bad, geez


i could really go for a set or two of those, just amazing and the proportions and spacing of the fins is perfect. nice job!

 

I know who Charlie Price's (Vintage Speed) foundry is. They're really cheap, and do very good work.

I've actually been contemplating getting fome 318 Poly valve cover adapters/finned valve covers/factory authorized intake repops done to sell, and have been getting some ducks in a row to maybe make this happen.

I have the contact info on the foundry, located in KC, KS if anyone's interested. PM me and I'll hook you up with the info.

By the way, I'm interested in whether or not the mold was two pieces, etc as well.

~Jason

 

Cal Custom style valve covers for 318 Poly engines--Craig Fountain--polymuscle@hotmail.com.......Cast down under, but sent to L A for polishing......OLDBEET

 

that is SWEET!!

I have a dumb question - anybody can answer it that knows the answer I guess.

when you sand cast a part like that - don't you need 2 pieces (like a make and female mold?)

They use the buck and pour the aluminum on the outside of it??? or the inside??

I'm confused - and a little slow I guess

 

Web site ain't workin!
19 Glendale St. Gorokan
NSW Australia 2263
61-2-4392-2215.......Or ask QQMOON

 

Yeah, I know Craig, Gary, and others doing that gig. My thing is that I think valve cover adapters are the way to go, over finned aluminum valve covers. With a valve cover adapter, you could run whatever valve covers you wanted on those motors, depending on what they're made to accept.

I'm am a big fan of the Mopar Performance black crinkle-coat w/fins valve covers, myself. My first thoughts are to make LA 318 to A 318 valve cover adapters. They's have the scalloped parts built into the adapter itself, allowing you to bolt on any LA 318 valve cover you wanted right on top.

I've also gone to the extreme lengths to get Edelbrock's premission to repop some of their out-of-production stuff, hence "Factory Authorized". Like I said, I'm still getting my ducks in a row to see if I'm wanting to do this or not, but it certainly seems do-able. For the moment, I'm gathering pricing information to see how much in pre-sales I'll need in addition to a startin' out loan to begin production of the initial pieces.

~Jason

 

You crafty mf. Looks good.

 

I'd be interested in knowing what the foundry charged for the sand casting and pour?

 

WOW-makes my Offys look like vomit. With a can-do attitude like that, it's no wonder you guys kicked the Russians' butts in the WWll

 

Great looking cover thats for sure.
I too wanted something that did not exist in the form I wanted so I went this route to make(have cast) aircleaner.
Like some addressed there are shrinkage factors to consider when making a piece that needs some high tolerances. In order to have something cast there are some things that you cannot do like having negative angles or they (the foundry) will never get your master out of the mold to make the shape. All curves must have at least a 0.06 degree radii and also have a 0.03 in. positive angle( so it can be pulled out of the mold)
Shrinkage for standard aluminum is 5/32 in. per foot. So if you are casting something long but skinny you will see a noticable shortening in the length.

As far as what I wanted...I love the look of a Thickstun air cleaner, but I wanted one to fit a four barrel carb. This is what my first prototype top looked like.



This was made of wood, bondo, paint, and lots of elbow grease.
After making this I realized that some changes needed to be made so a whole new one was made.



It had wider spaced fins so that it would be easier to polish down the road. This second shot shows the top and the bottom(yellow) together.
If you think you can't do this...your wrong.
anybody want to see more? I don't mean to hijack this thread but I thought maybe it fit in with the subject.

As far as cost.. it was close to $120, including shipping back and forth to the foundry.

BR

 

YEP!
probably in your own thread though, so you don't hijack this one...

 

I agree... the proportions of the Fin's fins are beautiful. Good work, man.

 

Great work, Low Cab! Have you already taken it to foundry? You had there lots of important stuff told, I want to tell something also.

Ok, here is something about my valve cover -project. But first, I'm not educated to casting works,
so these are things that I've found when I've searched, I've noticed, and got answers from some old carpenters.

I started with birch, and ended up to cast aluminium...
First thing was to measure original valve cover, nobody wants valves to hit covers.
Writing those measures also to somewhere is not a bad idea.
First, when this piece of birch was still square, six grooves were made, in two different heights, which you propably notice here;

Second, another side was drilled hollow. It got it's shape with chisel and sanding paper. Gotta admit, also some Bondo. (I feel shame for that...)
Now this piece had those important, required shapes. Then again, with chisels and sanding
machine and -papers , outer shape got it's shape. This is phase that takes more time that I thought.
Also, it should look same from both ends and sides.

I wanted to bolts go to same height with fins.
Buck was painted, it makes easier to get it out of sand.
As Cast -finish looks like it is hardened sand...


Also, remember that they have to pour that melted aluminum inside mold from somewhere... here is what it looks


As you know, polishing is not fast, but makes it looks soooo good!

And then generally;
This part is like bowl, it has to taper, so it is possible to get it out of the mold.
Also, sharp corners can't be used, they must be radiused. If they're not, casting sand will crack.
Casted piece is 1% smaller than original model, which has to be noticed when piece is fabricated.
Therefore, you can't just take all those vintage parts to foundry and ask them to do same thing again. Damn!

-Otto-

 

Otto

Thanks for the compliment
I know the amount of work that goes into making something like yours.
This was my prototype on the engine. Pretend it's a Flathead.

BR

 

Now you my man are one talented Sumilina poyka. My last name is spelled Saari now if that ai,nt fin A

 

Is the Pope Jewish?

 

WOW! I'm glad I took that foundry class in college - I just don't know anyplace local that will cast my parts, were I to make them. I've tinkered with the thought of making my own foundry ... with all the small business I could get locally, it would probably pay for itself in short time. Nice work and attention to detail.

 

Check this site out, it has lots of info on home casting. It's a great site with good info and pictures.

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/

 

We have a HAMBer that does this stuff for a living. You may check with him... he's our very own Dennis O'brien and he's a SUPER nice guy and easy to talk to! He's also on our Vendor list... O'brien Truckers. Maybe he could support some of the home brewed one-off parts some of us come up with around here. Here's the website:
http://www.obrientruckers.com/

 

Very Nice Work!

Valve covers this nice deserve better bolts!

 

For how much will you be selling them for? For what engine size?
BTW great job.....

 

If they're for a Nailhead they will fit all Nailheads...

 

very cool and very informative.

you are the man

 

I take that as a NO then.

 

Now thats what i'm talking about!!! One HAMBer helping everyone, no nasty remarks or oppinions, just down home shade tree wrenchin!! lol.
Wonder if you could cast 32 Grill shells!!
For any New englanders around theres a casting place in Cumberland RI, believe its called "cumberland Foundry"( go figure) its on West wertham rd, cumberland RI 02864.
JimV

 

Lowcab - Some foundry info would be great! Was it in Texas? The foundries I've talked to locally are way too high!